How To Fix A Leaky Kitchen Faucet: Easy Guide

What do you do if your kitchen faucet keeps dripping? You usually need to replace a worn-out part inside the faucet, like a washer, cartridge, or O-ring, to stop the leak. This guide will help you fix that annoying drip or leak easily.

Dealing with a leaky kitchen faucet is a common household chore. That constant drip, drip, drip wastes water and drives up your bill. Worse, sometimes you hear a fixing noisy sink tap sound before the drip even starts. The good news is that most faucet leaks are simple fixes you can do yourself. This is your go-to guide for DIY sink faucet repair. We will cover the main faucet types and show you step-by-step how to get your sink quiet again.

Spotting the Leak Type

Before you grab any tools, you need to know where the water is coming from. This tells you exactly what needs troubleshooting leaking faucet attention.

Drip from the Spout

If water drips from the very end of the faucet (the spout), the problem is usually inside the faucet body. It might be a worn-out washer, a cracked seal, or a bad cartridge. This is the most common leak type.

Leak at the Base or Handle

If water seeps out around the bottom of the faucet base or under the handle when the water is running, the issue is often with the O-rings in kitchen faucet or the seals around the valve stem. A leak here might need faucet handle repair or seal replacement.

Getting Ready for the Repair

Preparation is key to any successful repair job. Don’t start taking things apart until you have your tools and safety steps covered.

Essential Tools for Faucet Repair

Having the best tools for faucet repair on hand makes the job faster and less frustrating. You do not need a huge toolbox, but these items are crucial:

Adjustable Wrench: Good for gripping nuts of different sizes.
Pliers (Needle-Nose and Groove-Joint): Useful for grabbing small parts.
Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead): Needed to remove handle screws.
Hex Keys (Allen Wrenches): Many modern faucet handles use these.
Utility Knife or Small Flat Screwdriver: Used carefully to pry off decorative caps.
Towel or Rag: To wipe up water and protect the sink finish.
Replacement Parts: Washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge (you might need to buy these after taking the old one out).
White Vinegar and Scrub Pad: For cleaning mineral buildup.

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

This is the most important step. You must stop the water flow to the faucet before taking it apart.

Look under the sink. You should see two small shut-off valves—one for hot water and one for cold water.
Turn both handles clockwise until they stop. This shuts off the water supply to the faucet.
Turn the faucet handle on to drain any remaining water in the lines. Check that no more water flows out.

Step 2: Protect Your Sink

Place a towel or rag in the sink basin. This keeps small screws or parts from falling down the drain. It also protects your sink’s finish from scratches from dropped tools.

Identifying Your Faucet Type

Faucets are not all built the same. The way you fix a leak depends on whether you have a disc, ball, compression, or cartridge style faucet. Grasping the type helps you choose the right repair method.

Faucet Type	How It Works	Common Leak Source
Compression	Uses rubber washers pressed down onto a valve seat.	Worn-out washers.
Cartridge	Uses a hollow metal or plastic cartridge that moves up and down or rotates.	Worn seals or a damaged cartridge body.
Disc (Ceramic)	Uses two ceramic discs that slide against each other to control flow.	Worn inlet/outlet seals or cracked discs.
Ball	Uses a metal or plastic ball with slots to regulate flow.	Worn springs, seats, or cam assembly.

Most modern kitchen faucets are either cartridge or disc types. Older faucets are often compression style.

Fixing Common Faucet Leaks by Type

Here are the detailed steps for repairing dripping kitchen faucet based on the style.

Method 1: Repairing a Compression Faucet (Washer Replacement)

Compression faucets are the oldest design. They leak most often because the rubber washer gets hard and stops sealing properly. This involves replacing faucet washer.

H4: Disassembling the Handle

Remove the Decorative Cap: Pry off the small cap (often marked ‘H’ or ‘C’) on top of the handle using a small flathead screwdriver or a utility knife tip. Be gentle.
Unscrew the Handle: You will see a screw underneath the cap. Use the correct screwdriver to remove it. Keep this screw safe!
Pull Off the Handle: The handle should lift straight up. If it sticks, wiggle it gently. Sometimes, a handle puller tool is needed, but usually, a firm pull works.

H4: Accessing the Stem Assembly

Remove the Packing Nut: You will see a large, hexagonal nut holding the stem in place. This is the packing nut. Use your adjustable wrench to turn this nut counter-clockwise until it loosens.
Pull Out the Stem: Once the nut is off, you can pull the entire stem assembly straight out of the faucet body.

H4: Replacing the Washer and Seat

Locate the Washer: Look at the bottom tip of the stem you just removed. You will see a small screw holding the rubber washer in place.
Remove the Old Washer: Use a screwdriver to remove the screw. Take off the old, usually flattened or cracked washer.
Install the New Washer: Put the new, matching washer on and secure it with the screw.
Check the Valve Seat: Look down into the empty faucet body where the stem sat. You might see a brass part—this is the valve seat. If it looks rough or pitted, the new washer won’t seal well. You might need a special seat-dressing tool to smooth it, or you may need to replace the seat entirely. Many hardware stores sell inexpensive seat wrenches for this job.

H4: Reassembly

Insert the stem assembly back into the faucet body.
Hand-tighten the packing nut, then use the wrench for a snug fit. Do not overtighten.
Reattach the handle and the decorative cap.
Turn the water supply back on slowly and check for drips.

Method 2: Fixing a Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are common because they handle both hot and cold water using one unit—the cartridge. Leaks usually mean the cartridge needs replacement, or the seals around it are bad. This is a standard cartridge replacement for kitchen faucet.

H4: Removing the Handle

Locate the Set Screw: On many modern faucets, the handle attaches via a small set screw. This is often hidden under a decorative cap on the side or back of the handle, or sometimes right underneath the handle base.
Use the Hex Key: Use the correct size Allen wrench (hex key) to loosen this set screw.
Remove the Handle: Lift the handle off the faucet body.

H4: Removing the Cartridge

Remove the Retaining Nut or Clip: Some cartridges are held in place by a retaining nut (like the packing nut on a compression faucet). Others use a small brass or plastic retaining clip that slides into a groove. If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers to gently pull it straight up.
Pull Out the Cartridge: Grip the top part of the cartridge firmly with pliers (or use the plastic tool that sometimes comes with replacement cartridges) and pull it straight up and out. It may take a little wiggling. Note the orientation before pulling it out so you can install the new one the same way.

H4: Replacing Seals or the Cartridge

Check the Seals (O-Rings): If you see small rubber rings (O-rings) near the base of where the cartridge sat, these might be the cause of a leak around the base. Carefully remove the old O-rings and try replacing O-rings in kitchen faucet if they look flat or cracked. Lubricate new O-rings with plumber’s grease before sliding them on.
Install the New Cartridge: If the cartridge itself is the issue, insert the new cartridge, making sure any tabs or keys line up perfectly with the slots in the faucet body. You must align it correctly, or the hot and cold water might be reversed, or it won’t seal.
Secure the Cartridge: Reinstall the retaining clip or nut firmly.

H4: Putting the Handle Back On

Place the handle back onto the stem.
Tighten the set screw using the hex key.
Turn the water back on slowly and test the faucet.

Method 3: Fixing a Leaky Faucet Base (Stopping Leaks Around the Bottom)

If water pools around the base of the faucet when you turn the water on, it means the seals between the main faucet body and the spout body (or the sink deck) are failing. This often requires stopping leaky faucet base.

Shut Off Water: Always turn off the water supply first!
Remove the Spout: For many modern kitchen faucets (especially single-handle types), the entire spout assembly lifts off after the handle and cartridge/ball assembly are removed. Check your model; often, a retaining nut at the very bottom of the faucet body holds the spout in place. Remove this nut.
Examine the O-Rings: Once the spout is lifted off, you will see the mounting platform. There should be one or more large O-rings seated in grooves on the faucet body or the spout base.
Replace and Grease: Carefully roll off the old O-rings. Clean the grooves thoroughly. Install new, appropriately sized O-rings. Apply a thin coat of non-toxic silicone plumber’s grease to these new rings. Grease helps them seal better and prevents them from tearing during installation.
Reassemble: Lower the spout back into place, secure the retaining nut, and then reassemble the handle components.

Method 4: Addressing Ball Faucets (More Complex)

Ball faucets are recognizable by having a single handle that rotates on a rounded cap. They have many small parts, making troubleshooting leaking faucet a bit more complex here.

Remove Handle: Loosen the set screw and remove the handle.
Remove Cap and Collar: Unscrew the cap, then remove the collar underneath it.
Remove Cam Assembly: Lift out the cam and the packing washer (often plastic).
Remove the Ball: The slotted control ball lifts out.
Replace Seats and Springs: Beneath the ball, you will find small rubber seats and springs. These are the most common failure points. Use needle-nose pliers to remove them. Replace them with a new set, ensuring the spring sits correctly in the hole before placing the rubber seat on top of it.
Reassemble: Place the ball back in, making sure the groove on the ball lines up with the pin slot in the faucet body. Put the cam assembly back on, lining up its tab with the slot. Tighten the cap and handle.

Advanced Faucet Repair Considerations

Sometimes the problem isn’t just a simple washer or seal failure.

When to Replace the Cartridge vs. Repairing the Washer

If you have a cartridge faucet, trying to replace individual internal seals without replacing the whole cartridge is difficult. Cartridges are designed as a complete sealed unit. If you open one up, you risk damaging the precise ceramic or plastic components inside. For cartridge faucets, if the seals look okay but it still leaks, simply replace the entire cartridge. This is often easier than trying to source individual seals for that specific unit.

Dealing with Mineral Buildup (Scale)

Hard water leaves behind white, crusty mineral deposits called scale. This scale can stop valves from closing fully or keep seals from sitting flat.

After removing parts like the cartridge or stem:

Soak the removed metal components in white vinegar for about 30 minutes.
Gently scrub off any softened deposits with an old toothbrush or a soft scrub pad.
Rinse everything thoroughly before putting the faucet back together. Cleaning prevents future problems, especially when repairing dripping kitchen faucet.

Faucet Handle Repair

If you notice wobble or looseness in the handle, it is usually related to the faucet handle repair process described above:

Check the set screw (for cartridge/disc) or the handle screw (for compression). Make sure it is tight.
If the handle still wobbles, the mounting threads underneath might be worn, or the handle itself might be cracked. In this case, replacing the handle assembly might be necessary.

Finalizing Your DIY Sink Faucet Repair

Once everything is reassembled, follow these checks:

Inspect Seating: Ensure all nuts and screws are snug. Remember, “snug” means firmly tight, not “use all your strength” tight. Overtightening can crush new rubber parts instantly.
Slowly Restore Water: Go under the sink and turn the hot and cold shut-off valves slowly back on (counter-clockwise). Turning them too fast can cause a “water hammer” effect, which can damage pipes or fittings.
Test Operation: Run the water at full blast, both hot and cold, for a minute. Turn it off and watch the spout closely for any residual drips.
Check for Base Leaks: Run the water again, checking around the base of the faucet and under the sink connections for any seepage.

If the drip persists after these steps, you might have a damaged valve seat (in compression faucets) or a hairline crack in the faucet body itself (rare, but happens).

Essential Tips for Success in DIY Sink Faucet Repair

To make your next repair smooth, keep these tips handy:

Document Everything: Before pulling out parts, take pictures with your phone. This visual map is invaluable when putting complex items back together.
Match the Parts Exactly: When buying replacement parts (washers, O-rings, cartridges), take the old, damaged part to the plumbing supply store. Faucet brands use proprietary parts, and a generic replacement often won’t fit or seal correctly.
Use Plumber’s Grease: Always apply a thin layer of silicone plumber’s grease to new rubber O-rings and threads of stems/cartridges. This protects the rubber and ensures smooth operation, which is key to fixing noisy sink tap issues caused by friction.
Don’t Force It: If a piece won’t move, stop. Forcing parts can break plastic housings or threads. Re-examine how the piece is held in place (is there a hidden clip or screw?).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long should a faucet repair take?

A well-prepared homeowner working on a standard compression or cartridge faucet can usually complete the fix in 30 to 60 minutes. If you struggle to identify the parts or need to visit the store for a replacement cartridge, the total time may stretch to a few hours.

Q: Can I fix a leaky faucet without shutting off the main water supply?

No. You must shut off the water supply to that specific faucet under the sink. If you cannot find the under-sink shut-off valves, you must turn off the main water supply to your entire house before starting any DIY sink faucet repair.

Q: What is the most common reason for a faucet to leak from the base?

The most common reason is degraded or cracked O-rings located where the spout swivels or where the main body connects to the deck plate. Replacing O-rings in kitchen faucet assemblies usually solves this base leak.

Q: If my single-handle faucet drips, do I need a new cartridge or just new O-rings?

If the drip comes straight from the spout, the internal seals within the cartridge or the washer on a compression stem are the likely culprits. If water leaks around the handle or base when the water is running, focus on the O-rings or the cam assembly seals.

Q: Why is my faucet making squeaking or grinding noises when I use it?

Noises like squeaks or grinding often mean there is friction between moving parts. This can be caused by mineral buildup, dry moving surfaces, or worn-out seals. Cleaning mineral deposits and using plumber’s grease during the repair process (especially when fixing noisy sink tap components) will usually silence it.

Q: Do I need a special kit for faucet repair?

For compression faucets, you mainly need replacement washers and perhaps a seat wrench. For cartridge faucets, it is highly recommended to buy the specific replacement cartridge for your faucet brand and model. General repair kits might work for O-rings, but a specific cartridge is usually better for successful cartridge replacement for kitchen faucet.