Can I measure for kitchen cabinets myself? Yes, you can absolutely measure for kitchen cabinets yourself by following a systematic, step-by-step approach that accounts for all necessary dimensions. Taking accurate measurements is the most crucial step before ordering any new cabinetry. Mistakes here lead to costly delays and fitting issues later. This guide will walk you through the entire process, ensuring you get the right kitchen cabinet dimensions.
Why Precise Measurement is Key for Your Kitchen Project
Building or renovating a kitchen involves many moving parts. Cabinets form the foundation of the entire room’s design and function. Incorrect measuring kitchen for cabinets causes problems with appliance fit, countertop seams, and door clearance. Having a reliable cabinet measurement guide saves time and money. This process is not just about length and width; it involves depth, height, and accounting for obstacles.
Essential Tools for Cabinet Measuring
Before you start, gather the right equipment. Good tools make accurate work easier. You need more than just a standard tape measure.
- Quality Tape Measure: A strong, locking metal tape measure is best. Look for one with both imperial (inches) and metric measurements if your cabinets are imported.
- Long Level (4-foot or longer): To check if walls and floors are truly plumb and level.
- Pencil and Paper or Digital Device: For recording all your numbers clearly. Graph paper works very well for drawing layouts.
- Angle Finder or Carpenter’s Square: To check for 90-degree corners.
- Laser Measure (Optional but helpful): Speeds up the process and can offer high precision on long runs.
- Painter’s Tape or Chalk Line: For marking out cabinet locations on the floor.
Step 1: Preparing the Space for Accurate Measurement
You cannot measure accurately in a cluttered space. Clear everything out first. Remove old cabinets, appliances, and anything else blocking the walls.
Cleaning and Assessing Walls
Walls are rarely perfectly straight in older homes. You must account for these imperfections.
- Remove Trim and Baseboards: Take off any base molding that sits where the new base cabinets will rest. This exposes the true floor line.
- Check for Plumb Walls: Hold your level vertically against the wall in several spots along the intended cabinet run. Note any significant bowing or leaning. A bow of more than 1/4 inch over an 8-foot span needs special attention later.
- Check for Level Floors: Place the long level horizontally on the floor where the cabinets will sit. Note any dips or rises.
Defining the Layout
Draw a simple sketch of the kitchen space. Mark doors, windows, and fixed items like vents or pipes. This sketch is the start of your template for kitchen cabinets.
Step 2: Measuring the Perimeter Walls
This is where you get the main run lengths for your cabinets. Always measure in multiple spots and use the smallest measurement found.
Measuring for Base Cabinets
Base cabinets usually sit 34.5 inches high (before the countertop). The standard depth is 24 inches.
Measuring Lengths
Measure the wall length three times for the best result:
- Measure at the Floor: Measure directly along the base of the wall where the cabinet bottoms will sit.
- Measure at Countertop Height (Approx. 34 inches up): Measure across the wall at this height.
- Measure Near the Ceiling: Measure across the wall near the top.
Rule of Thumb: Use the shortest of these three measurements for your main cabinet run length. This ensures that the longest measurement won’t cause the cabinet run to push into an adjacent wall or obstruction.
Accounting for Obstructions (Windows and Doors)
When you hit a window or doorway, you need precise cabinet opening measurements.
- Window Sills: Measure the distance from the corner of the room to the edge of the window opening. Then, measure the actual width of the window opening. Finally, measure from the other edge of the window to the next corner or obstruction.
- Doors: Measure the distance from the wall corner to the edge of the door frame. Note the swing path of the door. You need clearance for the door to open fully without hitting the corner cabinet.
Example Table: Base Cabinet Run Measurement
| Segment | Measurement 1 (Floor) | Measurement 2 (Mid-Wall) | Measurement 3 (Ceiling) | Final Length Used | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wall A (Corner to Window Left) | 48 1/4″ | 48 1/8″ | 48 3/8″ | 48 1/8″ | Used shortest length. |
| Window Opening Width | N/A | 36″ | N/A | 36″ | |
| Wall A (Window Right to Corner) | 60 1/2″ | 60 1/4″ | 60 3/8″ | 60 1/4″ |
Measuring for Upper Kitchen Cabinets
Upper cabinets generally hang 18 inches above the base cabinet countertop height (which means they sit around 54 inches off the floor). Standard depth is usually 12 inches.
Measuring Upper Run Lengths
Measure the wall where the upper cabinets will hang, just as you did for the base units.
- Measure at 54 inches from the floor: This is the most critical measurement for alignment.
- Check Above and Below: Measure near the ceiling and near the base cabinet tops to confirm the wall is straight vertically at that height.
Accounting for Overhangs and Appliances
If you have a refrigerator enclosure or a range hood, these affect the upper cabinet layout.
- Vent Hoods: Measure the width of the hood cabinet box. Ensure the wall space above the range allows for the vent ducting.
- Pantry/Tall Cabinets: If you have a tall unit going to the ceiling, measure that wall run from floor to ceiling height.
Step 3: Determining Cabinet Heights and Depths
This is where standard kitchen cabinet dimensions come into play, but you must adapt them to your space.
Base Cabinet Height
Standard base cabinet height (without the countertop) is 34.5 inches.
- Measure Existing Cabinets (If applicable): If you are measuring existing cabinets to match them, measure from the floor to the top edge of the existing box structure.
- Floor Irregularities: If your floor is not level, the cabinet installer will use shims under the base cabinets to make the tops level. Your measurement should target the lowest point in that run to ensure you don’t run out of space later.
Upper Cabinet Height
Standard upper cabinets are 30, 36, or 42 inches tall.
- Wall Clearance: Measure the height from the countertop surface (or where the countertop will be) up to the ceiling. Subtract the standard 18-inch backsplash clearance. If the resulting number is less than 30 inches, you may need shorter cabinets or a smaller backsplash.
- Ceiling Clearance: Always leave at least 1/2 inch of space between the top of the tallest upper cabinet and the ceiling for crown molding installation or simply to allow for ceiling inconsistencies.
Cabinet Depth
Depth measurements are vital for appliance fit and walkway clearance.
- Base Cabinets: Standard depth is 24 inches. If you have a narrow kitchen, you might opt for shallower cabinets (e.g., 21 inches). Ensure the depth works with your chosen countertop overhang (usually 1 to 1.5 inches past the cabinet face).
- Upper Cabinets: Standard depth is 12 inches. Deeper uppers (15 inches) offer more storage but can feel bulky in tight spaces.
Step 4: Detailed Measurement for Specific Locations
Every corner, appliance cutout, and unique feature needs its own precise measurement.
Measuring Corners
Corners are often where walls meet at slight angles (not perfectly 90 degrees).
- Verify the Angle: Use a large square or angle finder to confirm the corner is 90 degrees.
- Measure from Each Side: Measure the wall run leading into the corner from both directions. If the corner is slightly off, the manufacturer will use specialized “blind corner” or “lazy susan” cabinet solutions. Your total linear measurement must reflect the actual wall surface available.
Measuring for Appliance Openings
Refrigerators, ranges, and dishwashers require exact rough openings. You need to measure the space after base cabinets are installed, but for initial planning, measure the appliance itself.
- Refrigerator Space: Measure the height, width, and depth of the refrigerator. Add 1 inch to the width and height for breathing room and easier sliding in/out.
- Range/Cooktop: Measure the width of the desired cutout area. Ensure there is adequate countertop space on either side (usually 12-15 inches minimum).
- Dishwasher: Dishwashers typically require a 24-inch wide opening. Measure the height from the finished floor to the underside of the countertop.
Calculating Cabinet Sizes Using Openings
You must decide where standard cabinets end and fillers or specialized units begin. This is a key part of calculating cabinet sizes.
- Total Run Length: Sum up all the linear measurements taken along the wall.
- Subtract Obstructions and Openings: Subtract the widths of windows, ranges, and refrigerators.
- Account for Fillers: Cabinets are built in standard widths (e.g., 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 30, 36 inches). You rarely fill a space perfectly. Plan for 3-inch filler strips next to appliances or at the ends of runs to allow for door swing and alignment adjustments.
Formula for Planning:
$$ \text{Total Run Length} – \text{Appliance Widths} – \text{Filler Strips} = \text{Required Cabinet Width Sum} $$
Step 5: Addressing Existing Cabinet Measurements (If Keeping Some)
If you are only replacing part of your kitchen, measuring existing cabinets is necessary to ensure new units align perfectly.
- Measure Box Width: Measure the actual width of the existing cabinet box from side panel to side panel, not the door width.
- Measure Height and Depth: Measure these precisely as described above.
- Check Configuration: Note hinge types, drawer slide placement, and shelf heights.
When ordering new cabinets to butt up against old ones, the new cabinet box width must match the old box width precisely, accounting for any trim or face frame overlap.
Step 6: Creating the Final Template and Review
Your rough sketch must now become a precise, dimensioned drawing. This acts as your final template for kitchen cabinets.
The Wall Elevation Drawing
Draw the walls to scale. For each wall segment, list:
- Wall Length (Shortest verified dimension).
- Location of all breaks (corners, windows, appliances).
- Height: Floor to ceiling measurement.
- Placement of Utilities: Mark where plumbing stacks or electrical outlets are located, as these dictate where cabinets cannot go or where specialized cutouts are needed.
Double and Triple Checking Your Work
This stage involves verifying every number recorded. This is vital for successful cabinet installation measurements.
- Measure Twice, Order Once: Always remeasure critical spots, especially corner-to-corner runs.
- Measure Diagonals: For long, continuous runs, measure diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner across the room. If this diagonal measurement changes significantly between two measurements taken at different heights, your walls are severely out of square, signaling a need for professional consultation.
- Account for Variance: If you are using custom cabinets, you might receive slightly varied kitchen cabinet dimensions. Check the manufacturer’s tolerance specifications. If using stock cabinets, assume the listed dimensions are exact.
Placement Considerations During Measurement
Measurements affect more than just the cabinet box size; they influence how the kitchen functions.
Walkway Clearance
Ensure your layout provides adequate space for movement, especially when doors are open.
| Cabinet Type | Minimum Recommended Clearance | Ideal Clearance |
|---|---|---|
| Single Wall Kitchen | 36 inches | 42 inches |
| Two-Wall (Galley) Kitchen | 42 inches | 48 inches |
| U-Shape or L-Shape Kitchen | 42 inches | 48 inches |
Countertop Seams
If your countertop material requires a seam (common over 10 feet long, or at sharp turns), plan the cabinet placement so the seam falls over a base cabinet, not over an unsupported gap or appliance cutout. This requires knowing the maximum span of your chosen countertop material.
Dealing with Irregularities: Advanced Measuring Tips
Real kitchens are seldom perfect rectangles. Here is how to handle common issues when measuring kitchen for cabinets.
Sloped Floors
If the floor slopes, base cabinets must be installed level, not parallel to the floor.
- Find the Lowest Point: Measure the height from the subfloor to the desired countertop level at several points along the run.
- Determine Shim Needs: The point with the lowest measurement dictates the minimum required height. The difference between the lowest point and any higher point will be the total thickness of shims needed under the cabinet base at that higher location.
Non-Square Walls
If walls are not 90 degrees, standard straight runs won’t fit tightly.
- Manufacturer Specifics: Some cabinet companies offer specialized corner units for slightly angled walls (e.g., 88 or 92 degrees).
- Filler Use: If the angle is minor, you may have to use larger filler strips or have the wall professionally squared before installation. Always communicate the precise angle to your cabinet supplier.
Overhead Obstructions
Look up! Measure any pipes, soffits, or bulkheads that might interfere with upper cabinet placement or height. If a soffit only spans part of a wall, you must measure where it starts, its depth, and where it ends. This will determine if you need a shorter cabinet section or a specialized filler piece above the cabinet run.
Finalizing Cabinet Selection Based on Measurements
Once you have all your measurements, compare them against the available cabinet sizes offered by your supplier.
- Stock Cabinets: These come in fixed increments (usually 3-inch or 6-inch steps). You will use fillers to bridge the gaps between your wall measurement and the nearest available cabinet size.
- Semi-Custom Cabinets: Offer more flexibility in size, often allowing you to order cabinets in 1/8 inch or 1/4 inch increments, minimizing the need for fillers.
- Custom Cabinets: Built precisely to your cabinet opening measurements, requiring the most accurate initial survey.
Accurate cabinet measurement guide adherence ensures that the cabinets you order fit the space you have planned, leading to a smooth installation process.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the standard distance between upper and lower cabinets?
The standard distance, or backsplash clearance, between the top of the base cabinet (including the countertop) and the bottom of the upper cabinet is 18 inches. This allows comfortable working space.
Do I measure for cabinets before or after installing the flooring?
You must measure for cabinets after the subfloor is prepped but before the finished flooring (hardwood, tile, etc.) is installed, unless you are absolutely certain of the final flooring thickness. If using stock cabinets, it is often safer to measure based on the subfloor and account for the final flooring thickness as a shim adjustment when installing the base cabinets.
What if my wall measurements don’t match the standard kitchen cabinet dimensions?
If your wall run is 100 inches long, and the standard cabinet sizes jump from 30 inches to 33 inches, you need to decide how to use the extra space. You would order cabinets that add up to slightly less than 100 inches (e.g., 30 + 30 + 36 = 96 inches) and use the remaining 4 inches for filler strips or trim pieces to ensure doors operate smoothly.
How much play should I leave for error in my measurements?
For stock or semi-custom cabinets, plan for 1/4 inch tolerance on runs where you will use filler strips. For critical appliance openings (like a range), aim for 1/2 inch total wiggle room (1/4 inch on each side). If dealing with custom cabinetry, aim for extreme accuracy (1/8 inch tolerance or less) as the manufacturer builds exactly what you specify.
Do I need to measure the space for the sink base cabinet differently?
Yes. Sink base cabinets often have internal bracing or plumbing obstructions. Measure the wall length as usual, but confirm the required interior width matches the sink bowl you plan to use, ensuring clearance for garbage disposals or water lines within the cabinet opening measurements.