Best Tips How To Paint Unfinished Kitchen Cabinets

Can I paint unfinished kitchen cabinets? Yes, you absolutely can paint unfinished kitchen cabinets! Painting unfinished cabinets is a fantastic way to get a custom look for less money. This guide will show you all the steps for a great DIY cabinet makeover. We will cover everything needed for refinishing kitchen cabinets successfully.

Why Paint Unfinished Kitchen Cabinets?

Unfinished cabinets, often made of raw wood or MDF, are cheaper to buy. They are perfect for painting because they lack any factory finish or sealant. This means you don’t have to strip old paint or stain. This skips a big, messy step in the normal cabinet painting prep process. However, preparing this raw surface is key to getting a smooth cabinet paint finish.

Deciphering Materials Needed for Your Project

Getting the right supplies makes the job much easier. Good materials lead to a professional-looking outcome. Here is a list of what you will need for your cabinet painting tutorial.

Essential Tools and Supplies Checklist

Sandpaper (various grits: 120, 180, 220)
Sugar soap or TSP substitute for cleaning
Rags and tack cloths
Screwdrivers or drill for removing doors/hardware
Painter’s tape
Wood filler or putty
Primer (stain-blocking oil-based or high-adhesion bonding primer)
Best paint for cabinets (e.g., high-quality alkyd enamel or waterborne acrylic enamel)
Brushes (high-quality angled sash brush)
Rollers (small foam or microfiber rollers for smooth coats)
Drying rack or clean, flat space for drying doors

Choosing the Best Paint for Cabinets

The type of paint you pick is very important for a durable kitchen cabinet paint job. Standard wall paint will chip easily on cabinets.

Paint Type	Pros	Cons	Best For
Oil-Based Alkyd	Very hard finish, levels well.	Strong odor, long drying time, yellows over time.	Maximum durability on wood.
Waterborne Acrylic Alkyd (Hybrid)	Low odor, quick dry, cleans up easily, excellent durability.	More expensive than standard latex.	Most DIY projects seeking a smooth cabinet paint finish.
True Water-Based Latex	Low odor, easy cleanup.	Prone to scratching, needs excellent prep.	Budget projects, low-traffic areas.

For most homeowners doing a DIY cabinet makeover, a high-quality waterborne acrylic alkyd offers the best balance of ease of use and long-term toughness.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cabinet Painting Prep

Proper cabinet painting prep is the difference between a job that lasts five years and one that lasts fifteen. Never skip these steps, even with unfinished wood.

Removing Doors and Hardware

Label Everything: Use painter’s tape and a pencil. Mark the back of each door and drawer front (e.g., UFL for Upper Front Left). Mark the corresponding cabinet frame location. This saves huge headaches later.
Remove Doors and Drawers: Use a screwdriver to take off the hinges. Remove all screws from drawer slides. Place hardware (knobs, pulls, screws) into labeled plastic bags.
Remove Cabinet Hardware Upgrade Components: If you plan to add a cabinet hardware upgrade, remove any old hinges or handles now. Set these aside if you are reusing them, or store them if you are replacing them.

Cleaning the Raw Surfaces

Unfinished wood and MDF often have dust, glue residue, or fingerprints.

Wipe Down: Use a damp cloth to remove loose dust.
Deep Clean: Use a cleaner like TSP substitute or a strong degreaser. Wipe down all surfaces—frames, doors, and drawer fronts. This removes oils that prevent paint from sticking. Rinse with clean water and let it dry completely.

Filling Imperfections

Unfinished wood can have small dents, nail holes, or gaps.

Apply Filler: Use wood filler for small holes or dents. Apply it with a putty knife. Press it firmly into the area.
Let it Dry: Allow the filler to cure fully, following the product directions.

Sanding for Adhesion

Sanding creates a “tooth” for the primer to grip onto. This is vital for good adhesion during refinishing kitchen cabinets.

Initial Sanding (120 Grit): Use 120-grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Sand all surfaces lightly. You are not trying to remove much material. You just want to remove any fuzz or surface imperfections.
Medium Sanding (180 Grit): Switch to 180-grit sandpaper. Sand everything again. This refines the surface smoothness.
Final Smooth Sanding (220 Grit): Use 220-grit sandpaper for the final pass. This creates the best surface for the primer to stick to, aiming for a very smooth cabinet paint finish.
Dust Removal: This is crucial. Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment first. Then, wipe every single surface down with a tack cloth. Dust left behind ruins the finish.

Applying Primer: The Foundation of Success

Primer seals the raw wood and stops stains from bleeding through your topcoats. For unfinished materials, especially raw MDF or woods like pine, a high-quality primer is non-negotiable.

Primer Selection

What primer should you use? If the wood is very porous or you suspect tannins (oils) might bleed through (common in oak or cherry, though less so in standard unfinished plywood), use an oil-based or shellac-based primer. For standard raw MDF or birch plywood, a bonding primer works well.

Primer Application Technique

Thin Coats: Apply the primer thinly. Thick coats dry slowly and are prone to drips and brush marks.
Brush vs. Spray: Spraying primer gives the best, most uniform coat. If brushing, use a good quality synthetic brush and work the primer into the surface grain.
Drying Time: Let the first coat dry completely. Check the can for specific times.

Sanding Between Coats (The Key to Smoothness)

After the first coat of primer dries:

Light Sanding (220 Grit): Very lightly sand the entire primed surface with 220-grit paper or a fine sanding sponge. You are just knocking down any raised grain or tiny imperfections left by the primer. Do not sand through the primer layer!
Dust Off: Clean thoroughly with a tack cloth again.
Second Coat: Apply a second thin coat of primer. Repeat the light sanding and cleaning step if necessary. Two thin primer coats are better than one thick one. This intensive cabinet painting prep ensures the topcoat looks perfect.

Applying the Topcoat: Achieving a Durable Finish

This is where your effort pays off. Use the best paint for cabinets you selected and apply it thinly.

The First Coat of Color

Stir Well: Stir your paint thoroughly. Do not shake it, as this creates air bubbles that transfer to the surface.
Cutting in Edges: Use your angled brush to paint all the edges, corners, and grooves first. Work slowly, ensuring good coverage but avoiding thick build-up.
Rolling Large Areas: For flat panels, use a small, high-density foam or microfiber roller. Load the roller lightly. Roll in smooth, overlapping passes. Work in one direction (either vertically or horizontally, depending on the door orientation). Do not overwork the paint. Let the paint flow out to level itself.
Drying: Allow the first coat to dry fully. This might take 6 to 24 hours, depending on the paint type and humidity.

Sanding and Second Coat Application

To achieve that professional, smooth cabinet paint finish, sanding between color coats is essential.

Light Scuff Sanding: Once the first coat is hard, gently scuff the surface with 320-grit or 400-grit sandpaper or a sanding pad. This removes minor dust nibs and rough spots. You are just dulling the surface slightly so the next coat adheres well.
Clean Dust: Wipe away all sanding dust with a tack cloth. Be meticulous here.
Second Color Coat: Apply the second coat just like the first: thin application, cut in edges, then roll flats.
Third Coat (If Needed): For very light colors over dark wood, or if you want extreme durability, a third coat might be required. Follow the same sanding and cleaning protocol before applying it.

Curing Time: Patience for Durability

Many people ruin a great paint job by putting the doors back too soon. Durable kitchen cabinet paint needs time to fully cure, not just dry.

Dry to Touch: This happens in a few hours.
Recoat Time: The time specified on the can to apply the next coat.
Cure Time: The time needed for the paint to reach its maximum hardness. This can take 7 to 30 days for certain high-end cabinet paints.

Wait at least 48 hours before reattaching the doors, even if the surface feels hard. If you handle them too soon, you might dent or stick the soft paint.

Special Considerations for Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets

While raw wood is the easiest substrate, sometimes you face unique challenges during refinishing kitchen cabinets.

Painting Laminate Cabinets

Painting laminate cabinets presents a different challenge. Laminate is slick and non-porous. Even if your cabinets are raw wood, the prep advice below is good to keep in mind if you encounter slick spots.

Aggressive Cleaning: Use a strong degreaser like TSP.
Scuff Sanding: You must scratch the surface significantly (using 120-grit sandpaper) to create an anchor for the primer.
High-Adhesion Primer: You must use a specialized bonding primer designed for slick surfaces like laminate or very glossy finishes. Standard primers will peel right off.
Topcoat: Use a very durable kitchen cabinet paint, like a two-part epoxy or a high-quality hybrid enamel, as the paint itself must do all the gripping work.

Painting Thermofoil or Vinyl Surfaces

If your “unfinished” cabinets are actually older cabinets covered in vinyl or thermofoil wrap, painting them is difficult. Paint adheres poorly to plastic film. Often, removing the wrap entirely and painting the wood substrate underneath is the only reliable option. If you must paint over it, use a specialized plastic primer first.

Reassembling and Final Touches

Once the paint is fully cured, you can finish your DIY cabinet makeover.

Installing New Hardware

Now is the best time to perform your cabinet hardware upgrade. New pulls and knobs can instantly modernize dated cabinets, even if the paint color is classic.

Use Templates: If you are changing the size or style of hardware, use a template to ensure the holes line up perfectly.
Drill Pilot Holes: If you are using larger screws or drilling new holes, drill pilot holes first. This prevents the wood (or the painted surface) from splitting or chipping around the screw head.
Install Carefully: Attach the new hardware. Be careful not to scratch the fresh paint around the screw head.

Rehanging Doors and Drawers

Reattach Hinges: Line up the hinges with the pre-drilled holes on the cabinet frame.
Alignment: After hanging all the doors, you will likely need to adjust the screws on the hinges to align them perfectly. Most modern hinges have adjustment screws that let you move the door up/down, left/right, and in/out. Take your time until all the gaps between doors are even.

Tips for Achieving a Professional, Smooth Cabinet Paint Finish

Many people struggle with brush strokes or roller marks. Here is how to fight those imperfections during your cabinet painting tutorial.

Temperature Control: Paint in a cool, dry environment. High heat makes paint dry too fast, leading to brush marks. Low humidity helps paint flow out better.
Use the Right Tools: Invest in high-quality synthetic brushes (like angled sash brushes) designed for fine finishes. They hold less paint and release it more evenly.
Thin Coats are Your Friend: Never try to achieve full coverage in one coat. Multiple thin coats are the secret to a smooth cabinet paint finish.
Work Wet Edge to Wet Edge: When rolling, make sure the edge of the area you just painted is still slightly wet when you start the next section. This helps the paint blend smoothly together.
Consider Spraying: If possible, renting or using a good quality HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) sprayer gives the smoothest possible result, mimicking a factory finish. Spraying requires heavy prep work to mask off everything else in the kitchen, though.

Maintenance for Your Newly Painted Cabinets

To keep your durable kitchen cabinet paint looking great:

Gentle Cleaning: Use a soft cloth and mild soap (like dish soap) and water for daily cleaning.
Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Do not use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, or strong solvents like acetone on your painted surfaces. These will quickly dull or damage the finish.
Be Mindful of High-Use Areas: Kitchens see heavy use. Be gentle around drawer edges and handles where friction is highest, especially during the first few months of curing.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it take to paint kitchen cabinets?

A: For an average kitchen (15–20 doors/drawers), expect the entire project, including drying and curing time, to take about 5 to 7 days if you work methodically over evenings and weekends. The actual painting time is about 2–3 full days, but prep and curing take the longest.

Q: Can I skip priming unfinished cabinets?

A: No. Skipping primer on raw wood or MDF is a common mistake. Primer seals the surface, prevents stain bleed-through, and provides the crucial “grip” for your expensive topcoat paint. Skipping it guarantees paint failure.

Q: What is the biggest mistake people make when refinishing kitchen cabinets?

A: The biggest mistake is rushing the cabinet painting prep and not allowing enough cure time. If you don’t sand properly, the paint won’t stick. If you don’t wait for the paint to cure, the cabinets will dent and stick together when you close them.

Q: Is painting laminate cabinets possible?

A: Yes, painting laminate cabinets is possible, but it requires specific bonding primers and much more intensive surface preparation (heavy sanding) than painting raw wood. Use the highest quality durable kitchen cabinet paint you can find.

Q: Should I paint the inside of the cabinet boxes too?

A: This is optional. Most people only paint the exterior faces, frames, doors, and drawer fronts. Painting the interior adds significant time and cost. If you do paint the interiors, use a slightly less durable, washable paint, as cabinets aren’t subject to the same wear and tear as the exteriors.