How To Take Out Kitchen Cabinets: Step-by-Step

Can I take out kitchen cabinets myself? Yes, you can take out kitchen cabinets yourself with the right tools and a bit of know-how. This guide will walk you through the entire kitchen cabinet removal process, from start to finish, making your cabinet demolition safe and manageable. We will cover removing kitchen cabinets, uninstalling base cabinets, and detaching wall cabinets clearly.

Getting Ready for Cabinet Removal

Before you start wrenching on those cabinets, good prep work is key. Rushing this step leads to damage and frustration. Think of this as the planning stage for your kitchen cabinet tear out.

Safety First: Essential Precautions

Safety is your top priority. Kitchens have hidden hazards. Always wear the right gear.

Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses. Debris can fly when you cut or pry.
Gloves: Use sturdy work gloves. This protects your hands from sharp edges and splinters.
Dust Mask: Cabinets hold dust and sometimes old materials that aren’t safe to breathe.
Footwear: Wear closed-toe, steel-toed boots if possible.

Necessary Tools for Cabinet Removal

Having the right gear makes the job faster and safer. Here is a list of the essential tools for cabinet removal:

Tool Name	Purpose
Pry Bar (small and large)	For gently separating cabinets from walls.
Drill/Driver	To remove screws holding the cabinets up.
Utility Knife	To cut caulk or paint lines around the cabinets.
Measuring Tape	To note where things were before you start.
Level	To check if things are straight (helpful if salvaging kitchen cabinets).
Stud Finder	To locate wall studs where screws are driven.
Safety Gear (as listed above)	Essential protection.
Helper (Strong Back)	Cabinets, especially base units, are heavy.

Shutting Off Utilities

This is crucial. Cabinets often hide connections for electricity, water, and gas. You must deal with these before disconnecting kitchen cabinets.

Electricity: If you have under-cabinet lights or an outlet mounted on the backsplash area, find the breaker box. Turn off the power to the entire kitchen circuit. Test the wires with a non-contact voltage tester to ensure they are dead.
Water: Locate the shut-off valves under the sink. Turn both the hot and cold water lines completely off. Open the faucet to drain any remaining water in the lines.
Gas (If Applicable): If you have a gas range connected to the back of the cabinets, you must shut off the main gas line valve for the stove. If you are unsure how to do this safely, hire a professional plumber for this specific part.

Removing Doors and Drawers

Take the doors and drawers off first. This makes the remaining cabinet boxes much lighter and easier to handle.

Open the doors fully.
Look for hinge screws. Usually, there are two screws holding the hinge plate to the cabinet frame.
Use your drill or screwdriver to remove these screws.
Keep the doors and hardware together. Label them if you plan on putting them back or salvaging kitchen cabinets.
For drawers, slide them out all the way. Look for small plastic or metal tabs or levers on the metal drawer slides inside the cabinet opening. Push these tabs in or up to release the drawer box.

Detaching Wall Cabinets

Detaching wall cabinets always comes before taking down the base units. Wall cabinets are secured high up and need careful support.

Step 1: Cutting the Seal

The top, sides, and back edges of the cabinets are usually sealed with caulk or paint where they meet the wall or ceiling.

Use your utility knife. Carefully run the blade along every seam where the cabinet touches the wall, ceiling, or backsplash area.
Cut through the caulk or paint line. This prevents the drywall or cabinet wood from tearing when you pull them away.

Step 2: Locating and Removing Mounting Screws

Wall cabinets are typically screwed into wooden studs in the wall.

Look inside the top and bottom of the cabinet frames. Screws are often hidden behind shelf pins, plastic covers, or even inside the cabinet corners.
Use your stud finder to mark the studs behind the cabinet, even if you can see where the screws are. This confirms solid anchoring points.
Use your drill/driver to remove every screw you find attaching the cabinet to the wall. Keep these screws in a safe, labeled container. If the screws are very long, you might need a deep socket or a long screwdriver bit.

Step 3: Freeing the Cabinets

Once all screws are out, the cabinet is only being held by gravity and any remaining friction.

Get Help: Wall cabinets are awkward and heavy. Always have at least one helper for this step.
Positioning: Both you and your helper should stand directly under the cabinet, one on each end.
Prying (Gently): Use a small pry bar. Slide the thin edge between the back of the cabinet and the wall. Gently tap the pry bar deeper. This lifts the cabinet slightly off the wall studs.
Lowering: Once you feel it move freely, slowly tilt the bottom of the cabinet away from the wall. Work together to bring it down safely to the floor. Lay it face-up on a blanket or cardboard to protect the finish if you are salvaging kitchen cabinets.

Repeat this process for every wall cabinet unit.

Uninstalling Base Cabinets

Uninstalling base cabinets involves more lifting because they sit on the floor and usually hold heavy countertops. Never start uninstalling base cabinets before all wall units are down and the counter is removed.

Step 1: Countertop Removal (If Still Attached)

Countertops must come off first. They are heavy and can damage the base cabinets if you try to pull them away while they are still attached.

Check Adhesion: Many modern laminate or solid-surface counters are glued down with construction adhesive. Granite or quartz counters are often held by clips or silicone.
Locate Clips: Look underneath the base cabinets, near the very top edge, for metal clips screwed into the underside of the counter and the top of the cabinet frame. Remove these screws.
Cutting the Seal: If the counter is glued, you need to cut the adhesive. Use a stiff putty knife or a long, thin blade. Slide it slowly and firmly between the countertop surface and the top edge of the cabinet box. Cut through all the adhesive.
Lifting: Countertops are heavy! Lift the counter section by section. If it’s granite or stone, you must have several strong people. Lift straight up and move it to a safe staging area.

Step 2: Disconnecting Plumbing and Appliances

This step deals with the “disconnecting kitchen cabinets” aspect related to sink and plumbing areas.

Sink: If the sink is still in the cabinet, you must disconnect the drain pipe (P-trap) and the supply lines from the faucet. Place a bucket underneath to catch any residual water.
Garbage Disposal/Dishwasher: Disconnect the electrical plug for the disposal. If the dishwasher is integrated into the cabinet run, check the sides and back for mounting screws securing it to the cabinet or the adjacent countertop. Unplug it or disconnect the wiring according to safety codes before sliding it out.

Step 3: Finding and Removing Securing Screws

Base cabinets are secured in a few ways:

Screws into Studs: Similar to wall cabinets, screws often go through the back of the cabinet into the wall studs for stability.
Screws into Adjacent Cabinets: When cabinets are lined up, they are often screwed together side-by-side for a seamless look.

Look inside the cabinet openings where two boxes meet. You will find long screws driven through the side panel of one cabinet into the side panel of the next. Remove these screws first.
Check the back panel again for screws going into the wall studs. Remove these last, as they are what anchors the unit.

Step 4: Pulling Out the Base Cabinets

Base cabinets are heavy even when empty. You need leverage to break the seal holding them to the floor or the wall.

Leverage Point: Place your pry bar against the floor, under the bottom edge of the cabinet front face.
Prying: Gently pry upward. You are trying to break the friction seal with the floor.
Sliding: Once the cabinet slightly lifts, have your helper grab the cabinet frame. Slowly pull the cabinet straight out, away from the wall. If it sticks, gently use the pry bar again on the back edge to free it.
Moving Out: Base cabinets are bulky. Move them carefully to your designated area for disposing of old kitchen cabinets or storage.

What To Do After Cabinet Removal

Once the last cabinet box is out, you face the aftermath—a bare kitchen, exposed drywall, and a pile of old materials. Your next steps depend on your goal: remodeling or replacing.

Salvaging Kitchen Cabinets

If you are salvaging kitchen cabinets, handling them gently during removal is vital.

Cleaning: Wipe down the exterior and interior surfaces.
Storage: Store them in a dry place. Cover them completely with plastic sheeting or tarps to protect them from moisture and dust.
Hardware Check: Ensure all hinges, handles, and drawer slides are accounted for or removed neatly.

Dealing with Wall Damage

After removing kitchen cabinets, you will see marks on the drywall or plaster where the cabinets sat.

Backsplash Area: The area previously covered by the backsplash or counter edge might have clean spots next to faded, dirty spots.
Stud Marks: You will see screw holes where the cabinets were attached.
Repair Plan: Plan to patch the screw holes, sand the walls, and repaint before installing a new backsplash or countertops.

Disposing of Old Kitchen Cabinets

If the cabinets are destined for the dumpster, efficient disposing of old kitchen cabinets saves time.

Local Regulations: Check your local waste management rules. Some landfills charge based on weight or volume.
Deconstruction for Easier Disposal: Breaking the boxes down makes them easier to haul. Separate the wooden frame pieces from hardware, particleboard, and laminate fronts.
Donation: If the cabinets are still in decent shape, consider donating them. Organizations like Habitat for Humanity ReStore often accept whole cabinets, which can be a tax write-off for you. This is often preferable to straight cabinet demolition.

Advanced Scenarios in Cabinet Tear Out

Not all kitchens are standard. Here are specific situations you might face during your kitchen cabinet tear out.

Corner Cabinet Challenges

Corner cabinets are tricky because they often anchor multiple runs of cabinets together.

Disassembly: In L-shaped kitchens, you must break the connection screws between the two cabinets meeting at the corner before trying to remove either one individually.
Support: Corner cabinets are large and wide. Always ensure strong support when detaching wall cabinets located in corners.

Cabinets Secured to the Floor

Sometimes, especially older installations, base cabinets were screwed directly into the subfloor underneath the toe kick.

Access: You may need to remove the toe kick trim first using a thin chisel or utility knife to slice the glue/nails holding it on.
Screws: Once the toe kick is off, look for screws driven downward into the floor joists. Remove these last, just before prying the cabinet away from the wall.

Dealing with Tile Backsplashes

If you have a tile backsplash behind the cabinets, this changes your sealing approach.

No Cutting the Seal: Do not cut caulk where the tile meets the cabinet.
Prying Carefully: You must pry the cabinet away from the wall very slowly. The goal is to pull the cabinet off the tile without cracking the tile or pulling large chunks of drywall paper off the wall. Be prepared for some minor tile damage near the screw lines, which will need repair later.

Fathoming the Timeline and Labor

The time it takes for removing kitchen cabinets depends on the kitchen size and the condition of the installation.

Kitchen Size	Estimated Time (One Experienced Person)	Notes
Small (Single Wall)	3 – 5 hours	Assuming utilities are already off.
Medium (L-Shape)	6 – 9 hours	Includes a complex corner unit.
Large (U-Shape/Island)	10 – 15+ hours	Requires breaks and multiple helpers.

Note on Labor: Always budget for extra time. Unexpected hidden fasteners or stubborn adhesives can drastically slow down the kitchen cabinet removal process. Having a helper cuts the time significantly, especially for lifting heavy wall units.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How do I protect my floor during cabinet removal?

Use thick moving blankets, heavy cardboard, or plywood sheets to cover the floor, especially where you will be prying or dropping heavy objects. This protects hardwood, tile, and vinyl.

Do I need to remove the countertop before disconnecting kitchen cabinets?

Yes, almost always. Countertops (especially stone or solid surface) are usually heavier than the cabinets they sit on. Removing them first prevents you from accidentally damaging the counter or the base cabinet structure when you try to move the lower units.

What if my wall cabinet screws are rusty and won’t turn?

If screws are stripped or rusted, applying penetrating oil (like WD-40) and letting it sit for 30 minutes can help. If that fails, use a manual impact driver or carefully cut the head off the screw with a metal-cutting bit on your drill.

Is it better to salvage kitchen cabinets or throw them away?

This depends on their condition and your future plans. If they are high-quality wood and still structurally sound, salvaging is great. If they are old particleboard or water-damaged, disposing of old kitchen cabinets responsibly is usually the better route.

What is the biggest risk during the kitchen cabinet tear out?

The biggest risks are injury from dropping heavy units (especially wall cabinets) or damaging the existing walls/utilities (like cutting a hidden water line). Always confirm utility shut-offs before you begin cabinet demolition.