How To Change The Kitchen Faucet Guide

Can I change my kitchen faucet myself? Yes, you can absolutely change your kitchen faucet yourself with basic tools and a little patience. This guide will help you every step of the way to successfully replace kitchen faucet.

Getting Ready for Your Faucet Swap

Swapping out an old faucet for a new one is a common home repair. You do not need to hire a plumber for this job. With the right plan, you can finish the task easily. This project is a great way to start your DIY faucet replacement journey. It improves how your sink looks and works.

Tools and Supplies Needed

Gathering everything first makes the job go smoothly. Missing one tool can stop the whole process. Make sure your new faucet box includes all parts. If you are swapping a different style, like a two handle faucet replacement, you might need different connection parts.

Tool Category	Specific Item	Why You Need It
Water Control	Basin Wrench (or under sink wrench use)	Essential for reaching tight nuts under the sink.
Tightening/Loosening	Adjustable Wrench or Pliers	For supply line nuts and mounting bolts.
Cleaning	Sponge, Rags, Bucket	To catch drips and clean the sink deck.
Safety	Safety Glasses	To protect your eyes from falling debris or drips.
Sealing	Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk	To seal the base of the new faucet to the sink.
New Parts	Your New Faucet and Hoses	The star of the show!
Optional	Utility Knife	To cut away old caulk or putty.

Picking the Right New Faucet

Before you start, pick a new faucet that fits your sink. Most sinks have one, two, three, or four holes. Look at your current setup. Do you have one hole for a mixer, or separate holes for hot and cold handles?

Single Handle Faucets: These are very popular now. They use one lever for both temperature and flow. Single handle faucet installation is often simpler because there are fewer parts to line up.
Two Handle Faucets: These have separate handles for hot and cold water. Check that the spacing matches your sink holes if you pick this type.

Locating the Main Water Shutoff

This step is crucial before you remove old kitchen tap. You must turn off the water supply first.

Look under your sink. You should see two small valves coming out of the wall or floor. These are the plumbing shutoff valve handles for the hot and cold lines leading to your sink.
Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them past this point.
Test the faucet one last time. Turn on the old faucet handles to drain any remaining water in the lines. This ensures the water is fully off before you start disconnecting.

If you cannot find the shutoff valves under the sink, you will need to turn off the main water supply to your entire house. This is usually near your water meter or where the water line enters your home.

Step 1: Taking Out the Old Faucet

This is often the hardest part because old hardware can be rusted or stuck. Take your time here.

Disconnecting the Supply Lines

The supply lines run from the shutoff valves up to the faucet base.

Place your bucket and rags under the connections.
Use your adjustable wrench. Loosen the nuts where the supply lines connect water lines sink (the valves). Turn counter-clockwise.
Expect a little water to spill out. Once the lines are free, let the remaining water drip into the bucket.
If your new faucet came with new lines, great! If not, you will save these lines for later inspection or disposal.

Removing the Mounting Hardware

Now you need to focus on the underside of the sink bowl. This is where the kitchen faucet mounting hardware holds the faucet tight against the sink deck.

Lie on your back or kneel beneath the sink. This view is tough, so use a flashlight.
Find the large nuts or screws holding the faucet body in place.
This is where the under sink wrench use becomes essential. A basin wrench is long and has a swivel jaw. It lets you grip those nuts from below, even in tight spots.
Turn the nuts counter-clockwise to loosen them. If they are very tight, you might need a little muscle. Apply steady pressure.
Once the nuts are off, the faucet should be loose on top of the sink.

Lifting Out the Old Fixture

Go back above the sink. Gently pull the old faucet straight up and out of the holes.
If the faucet base was sealed with old caulk or putty, you may need to wiggle it gently. Use a plastic scraper or utility knife to break the seal if needed. Be careful not to scratch the sink surface.
Clean the sink area thoroughly. Use a cleaner and a soft cloth to remove all old grime, putty, and mineral deposits. A clean, dry surface is key for sealing the new faucet.

Step 2: Preparing the New Faucet

Before you mount anything, read the instructions that came with your new faucet. Different brands use different mounting systems.

Assembling Base Components

Many new faucets require you to install the gasket or base plate before you put the faucet into the sink holes.

If you have a three-hole sink but are using a single handle faucet installation, you will use the deck plate (escutcheon) to cover the extra holes.
Apply plumber’s putty or a thin bead of silicone caulk to the underside of the base plate or the faucet base itself. This prevents water from seeping under the faucet and causing rust or mold.

Attaching Supply Lines (If Necessary)

Some high-end faucets come with supply lines already attached. If yours does not:

Thread the hot and cold supply lines into the bottom of the new faucet body.
Hand-tighten them first. Then, use your adjustable wrench to tighten them just a little bit more. Do not overtighten! These lines can crack if you use too much force.

Step 3: Installing the New Faucet

This is the reverse of removal. Focus on getting the faucet straight and secure.

Seating the Faucet in the Sink

Feed the water lines and the faucet shank(s) down through the hole(s) in the sink deck.
Make sure the faucet is centered and facing the correct direction (spout forward). If you used putty, gently press the faucet down to seat it.

Securing the Faucet from Below

This step requires you to get back under the sink again.

From underneath, slide the rubber gasket, metal washer, and then the mounting nut onto the faucet shank.
Hand-tighten the mounting nut.
Check the faucet alignment above the sink one last time. If it is straight, use your under sink wrench use tool to fully tighten the mounting nut. Make it very snug. You want the faucet not to twist, but you must not crush the sink material.

Installing Sprayers or Accessories

If your new faucet has a separate side sprayer, feed its hose down through its designated hole now. Secure its base according to the manual. For pull-down or pull-out sprayers, attach the weight to the spray hose loop underneath the sink. This weight helps retract the hose smoothly.

Step 4: Connecting the Water Lines

Now we need to connect water lines sink to the new faucet connections.

Attaching Supply Lines to Valves

Take the hot water supply line (usually marked red or labeled ‘H’). Connect it to the hot plumbing shutoff valve.
Take the cold water supply line (usually marked blue or labeled ‘C’). Connect it to the cold shutoff valve.
Hand-tighten the coupling nuts onto the valve threads.
Use your adjustable wrench to give each nut about a quarter to a half turn more. Again, be firm but gentle. Overtightening these connections is a very common cause of leaks.

If your new faucet uses flexible hoses that go directly to the valves, this process is the same. If you had to remove old kitchen tap that used rigid copper pipes, you must use new flexible faucet supply lines for the DIY faucet replacement. Mixing old and new plumbing types can cause issues.

Step 5: Testing and Final Checks

Do not skip the test phase! Leaks show up immediately if you rush this part.

Restoring Water Flow Slowly

Ensure the new faucet handle (or handles) on top of the sink are in the OFF position.
Go back to the plumbing shutoff valve handles under the sink.
Slowly turn the valves counter-clockwise to open them. Turning them slowly lets the pipes fill without a sudden rush of pressure that could blow a loose seal.
Keep watching the connections you just made. Look for any drips or streams of water.

Checking for Leaks

If you see a drip at the valve connection:

Turn that specific valve off right away.
Gently tighten the coupling nut a tiny bit more.
Turn the valve back on slowly and check again. Repeat this small adjustment until the drip stops.

Flushing the System

Once you are sure the supply lines are dry, turn the new faucet handle on to the cold setting. Let the water run for about one minute. This flushes out any debris or air that got into the lines during the swap.
Turn the water off.
Turn the handle to the hot setting and run it for another minute to flush the hot side.
Turn the water off. Check the temperature mix if you have a single handle faucet installation.

Final Inspection

Look underneath the sink one last time. Check the kitchen faucet mounting hardware nuts to ensure they are still tight after the water pressure hit them. Wipe everything dry and run your hands over all connections to confirm no moisture remains.

Special Considerations for Different Faucet Types

While the basic steps apply, certain faucets need extra attention during the install new sink faucet process.

Single Handle Faucet Installation Nuances

A single handle faucet installation often involves mounting the entire mixing cartridge assembly from below. This assembly usually has a large plastic or metal nut that screws onto a threaded post. Aligning the handle’s movement (forward for hot, left for cold, etc.) correctly before final tightening is important. If it feels wrong when you test it later, you will have to loosen the mounting nut and rotate the base slightly.

Two Handle Faucet Replacement Details

When doing a two handle faucet replacement, you are dealing with two separate components above the sink deck.

Ensure the base plates or gaskets for both handles are perfectly aligned with the sink holes.
The hot and cold lines must connect to the correct corresponding valve base underneath. Mixing them up will result in “cold” water coming out when you turn the hot handle.

Dealing with Corrosion When Removing Old Fixtures

Sometimes, the mounting nut for the remove old kitchen tap is severely corroded onto the faucet shank.

Penetrating Oil: Spray a quality penetrating oil (like WD-40 Specialist Penetrant) onto the threads and let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes.
Heat (Use Caution!): For metal fittings only, a brief application of a hairdryer or heat gun (never an open flame near plastic or rubber hoses!) can help expand the metal slightly, breaking the rust bond.
Cutting: As a last resort, you might need to use a small oscillating tool with a metal-cutting blade to carefully cut the nut or shank away from the faucet body. Be extremely careful not to cut into the sink material or any pipes.

Maintaining Your New Faucet

To keep your new installation looking and working great, a little upkeep goes a long way.

Check Tightness Annually: Once a year, look under the sink and give the kitchen faucet mounting hardware a slight check with your wrench. Things shift over time due to vibration and temperature changes.
Clean Aerator: Every few months, unscrew the tip of the faucet spout (the aerator). Rinse out any sediment. This keeps your water flow strong and steady.
Use Soft Cloths: Clean the faucet finish with mild soap and water. Avoid harsh abrasive cleaners that can damage modern finishes like brushed nickel or matte black.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it usually take to replace a kitchen faucet?
A: For an experienced DIYer, it might take 1 to 2 hours. For a first-timer tackling a rusty old fixture, plan for 3 to 4 hours. Rushing often leads to leaks.

Q: What if my sink has no access panel for the shutoff valves?
A: If your shutoff valves are inaccessible or non-existent, you must locate and turn off the main water supply to your house before starting the DIY faucet replacement.

Q: Why is my new faucet leaking from the base after I finished?
A: This means the seal between the faucet base and the sink deck failed. You likely need to turn the water off, remove the faucet, clean the sink surface, and reapply a fresh bead of silicone caulk or plumber’s putty before re-securing the kitchen faucet mounting hardware.

Q: Do I need plumber’s putty or silicone caulk?
A: Many modern faucets come with a rubber gasket designed to eliminate the need for putty. If a gasket is present, use that first. If the instructions call for extra sealing, or if you are installing over a porous surface, use silicone caulk as it creates a stronger, more durable, waterproof seal than traditional putty.

Q: What is the difference between a faucet shank and a supply line?
A: The faucet shank is the threaded pipe that passes through the sink hole and onto which the kitchen faucet mounting hardware secures the faucet body. The supply line is the flexible hose that connects the bottom of the shank to the plumbing shutoff valve.