Simple Steps: How To Fix A Kitchen Faucet Leak

If your kitchen faucet is dripping or leaking, you can often fix it yourself with basic tools and a little patience. Repair dripping faucet issues are one of the most common plumbing problems homeowners face. This guide will walk you through the process of fixing leaky kitchen tap problems, making your plumbing repair DIY project simple and successful.

Locating the Source of the Leak

Before you start fixing noisy faucet sounds or stopping drips, you need to know where the water is coming from. Leaks usually happen in one of three places: the spout (the main opening), the handle base, or under the sink where the water lines connect.

Deciphering the Types of Faucets

Different faucets use different parts to control water flow. Knowing what type you have helps you target the right fix.

Faucet Type	Description	Common Leak Point
Compression	Two separate handles (hot and cold). Uses rubber washers.	Under the handle or spout.
Ball	Single handle that swivels on a round cap. Common in older single-handle sinks.	Near the handle base or spout.
Cartridge	Single handle that moves up/down or side-to-side. Uses a self-contained cartridge.	Spout or handle base.
Ceramic Disc	Single handle. Uses two ceramic discs to control flow. Very durable.	Rarely leaks, usually the inlet seals.

Identifying the Causes of Faucet Leaks

Why do faucets leak in the first place? It usually comes down to worn-out internal parts.

Worn Washers or Seals: Over time, the rubber washers soften, crack, or compress. This prevents a tight seal when the handle is turned off. This is the primary reason for leaks in older faucets.
Corroded Valve Seats: The valve seat holds the washer in place. Mineral buildup (like rust or lime) on the seat can keep the washer from sealing fully.
Damaged Cartridge: In modern faucets, the cartridge controls water flow. If the seals around the cartridge fail, water leaks out. Cartridge replacement faucet fixes are often needed here.
Loose Parts: Sometimes, the leak is simple. A handle might be loose, or connections underneath the sink might have shifted.

Preparing for the Repair Job

Safety and preparation are key for any plumbing repair DIY. You cannot fix the faucet while water is still running to it.

Gathering Necessary Tools and Supplies

Make sure you have everything ready before taking the faucet apart. This saves time and prevents frustration.

Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Pliers (needle-nose can be very helpful)
Penetrating oil (if screws are stuck)
New replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
White vinegar (for cleaning mineral deposits)
Towel or rag
Utility knife or putty knife

Shutting Off the Water Supply

This is the most crucial step to stop water flow.

Look under your sink cabinet. You should see two shut-off valves (one for hot, one for cold).
Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This closes the water supply to the faucet.
Turn the faucet handles on (both hot and cold) to drain any remaining water in the lines. This relieves pressure.
If you cannot find the shut-off valves under the sink, you must turn off the main water supply to your entire house.

Fixing Leaks in Compression Faucets

Compression faucets are the easiest to diagnose for simple drips. They rely on physical force to seal the water path.

Step 1: Accessing the Handle

The leak often appears right around the base of the handle.

Pry off the decorative cap (it might say ‘H’ or ‘C’). Use a small flathead screwdriver or utility knife gently.
You will see a screw holding the handle in place. Remove this screw.
Pull the handle straight up and off the faucet stem.

Step 2: Removing the Stem Assembly

The stem controls the washer at the bottom.

You will see a large packing nut surrounding the stem. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen this nut by turning it counter-clockwise.
Once the packing nut is off, you can lift the entire stem assembly out of the faucet body.

Step 3: Replacing the Washer

This is often the solution when you repair dripping faucet issues in these older models.

Look at the bottom tip of the stem. You will see the old faucet washer held in place, usually by a brass screw.
Remove the screw. Take out the old washer.
Clean the area where the washer sits. If the seat looks rough, you might need a seat-dressing tool (though this is a more advanced step).
Replace faucet washer with a new one that matches the size and shape exactly. Reinsert the screw firmly, but do not overtighten it, as this can crack the new washer.

Step 4: Checking the Packing and O-Rings

If water leaks from around the handle when the water is on, the issue is likely higher up.

Examine the stem for any O-rings or packing material near the threads.
If these are brittle or cracked, carefully slide them off.
When replacing O-rings in faucet assemblies, lubricate the new rings with plumber’s grease before sliding them into place. This helps them seal better and prevents premature wear.
Reassemble the stem, tighten the packing nut snugly (this compresses the packing material), and reattach the handle.

Fixing Leaks in Cartridge Faucets

Cartridge faucets are popular because they offer smooth operation. If you are fixing leaky kitchen tap problems on a single-handle unit, chances are you need a cartridge replacement faucet procedure.

Step 1: Removing the Handle and Retainer Nut

Locate the set screw holding the handle on. This screw is often hidden under a decorative cap or sometimes on the side or back of the handle base, covered by a small plastic plug. Use an Allen wrench or small screwdriver to remove it.
Pull the handle straight up.
Look for a dome-shaped cap or a brass retaining nut holding the cartridge in place. Unscrew this nut or cap.

Step 2: Removing and Inspecting the Cartridge

The cartridge itself might have a plastic tab or clip holding it down. Remove this clip using needle-nose pliers.
Grasp the top of the cartridge (sometimes you need a special tool or just pliers) and pull it straight up. Note its orientation carefully—it must go back in the exact same way.
Inspect the O-rings on the outside of the cartridge. If they look worn, you can try replacing just the O-rings, but often replacing the whole cartridge is easier and more reliable.

Step 3: Installation and Testing

If replacing the entire cartridge, insert the new one, making sure the alignment tabs match the slots in the faucet body.
Reinstall the retaining clip or nut.
Tighten faucet handle screws only after the faucet body is fully reassembled.

Fixing Leaks in Ball and Ceramic Disc Faucets

These mechanisms are slightly more complex, but the general approach remains the same: access the moving parts and replace worn seals.

Ball Faucet Repair (Requires a Repair Kit)

Ball faucets have many small parts. It is best to buy a complete replacement kit specific to the brand.

Remove the handle and the cap shroud.
Remove the cam assembly and the rotating ball.
Inside the faucet body, you will find small rubber seats and springs. These are usually the culprit.
Remove the old seats and springs. Replace faucet washer equivalents (the seats and springs) with new ones from your kit.
Reassemble carefully, ensuring the ball rotates smoothly.

Ceramic Disc Faucet Repair

These rarely leak. When they do, it is often because the inlet seals where the water enters the disc assembly have failed, or the discs themselves are cracked (rare).

Remove the handle and any retaining nuts.
Lift out the cylinder containing the ceramic discs.
Inspect the rubber gaskets or seals located beneath the cylinder base. These are crucial for sealing against the faucet body.
Replace these rubber seals. If the leak persists, the entire disc cylinder likely needs replacement.

Addressing Leaks Below the Sink

Sometimes the drip is not coming from the spout or handle. If you see water pooling under the sink, you need to check the supply lines and connections.

Checking Supply Lines

Ensure the water is completely shut off under the sink.
Inspect the flexible supply lines running from the shut-off valves to the faucet base.
If the leak is at the connection point to the shut-off valve or the faucet shank, try gently tighten faucet handle connections—or rather, tighten the coupling nuts connecting the lines. Use two wrenches: one to hold the valve steady and the other to turn the nut. This prevents twisting the entire line.
If tightening doesn’t work, you may need to replace the flexible supply line completely.

Troubleshooting Under-Sink Leaks on Single-Handle Faucets

If you have a single-handle faucet, the base can sometimes leak due to loose mounting nuts or worn base gaskets.

You will need a basin wrench to reach the large mounting nuts securing the faucet body to the countertop from underneath.
Tighten these nuts firmly. This often reseats the gasket underneath the faucet base, stopping the leak.

Dealing with Persistent Faucet Problems

What if you have replaced all the obvious seals, but the faucet still drips or you have issues like a troubleshoot running faucet situation?

Valve Seat Inspection and Repair (Compression Faucets)

If a new washer does not fix the drip, the valve seat is probably pitted or rough.

After removing the stem, look down into the faucet body where the stem screws in. You will see the brass seat.
Use a seat-dressing tool or a seat grinder. This tool shaves a thin layer off the brass seat, creating a perfectly flat, smooth surface for the new washer to seal against.
Clean out any metal shavings thoroughly before reassembling.

When to Replace the Entire Faucet

If you have tried basic repairs (washers, O-rings) and the faucet is very old, heavily corroded, or if a cartridge replacement faucet part is hard to find, it may be time for a full replacement. Buying a new faucet assembly often saves time compared to chasing elusive small leaks in very old hardware.

Preventing Future Leaks: Maintenance Tips

Regular care can greatly extend the life of your faucet and prevent sudden leaks.

Check Tightness Annually: Every six months, check the tightness of the handle screws and the mounting nuts under the sink.
Clean Mineral Deposits: Wipe down the faucet base and aerator regularly. Hard water deposits speed up wear on seals. A little vinegar soak can help remove buildup.
Use Plumber’s Grease: Always apply a thin layer of silicone-based plumber’s grease to new O-rings and threads during any repair. This protects rubber parts and ensures smooth movement, preventing premature wear that leads to leaks.

Addressing Faucet Noise

Sometimes a leak is accompanied by noise. If you are fixing noisy faucet sounds, it usually points to one of two issues:

Loose Parts: A loose connection somewhere in the assembly might vibrate when water flows. Check all external screws and internal nuts (like the packing nut).
Water Hammer: If the noise is a loud bang when the water is suddenly turned off (especially common in compression faucets), this is water hammer, caused by water slamming to a stop. Installing water hammer arrestors on the supply lines is the professional fix, though ensuring all internal parts are snug can sometimes help reduce minor rattling.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How often should I replace faucet washers?

A: There is no set schedule. In a busy kitchen, a washer might last 3 to 5 years before needing replacement due to constant use wearing down the rubber. If you notice a slow drip, change it immediately.

Q: Can I use regular grease instead of plumber’s grease?

A: No. You must use silicone-based plumber’s grease. Petroleum-based greases will degrade and destroy rubber O-rings and washers quickly, making the leak worse.

Q: My single-handle faucet drips even when turned off completely. Is this a cartridge issue?

A: Yes, most likely. This usually means the seals inside the cartridge are failing, or the cartridge is misaligned. A cartridge replacement faucet kit is usually the best solution here.

Q: What should I do if the set screw holding my handle is stripped?

A: If the screw head is damaged, try using a screw extractor kit designed for stripped screws. If that fails, you might need to drill out the old screw very carefully, taking care not to damage the faucet body itself. If the faucet is old, this might signal it is time to replace the whole unit.

Q: I tried tighten faucet handle connections, but now the handle is too stiff to move. What went wrong?

A: You likely overtightened the packing nut (in compression faucets) or the retaining nut (in cartridge faucets). Loosen the nut slightly—just a quarter turn—and test the handle movement again. The goal is a seal tight enough to stop dripping, but loose enough for smooth operation.