Yes, you can absolutely measure for kitchen cabinets yourself using basic tools and careful steps. Accurate measurements are the most crucial step when planning any kitchen remodel, whether you are installing stock, semi-custom, or measuring for custom kitchen cabinets. Getting these numbers right saves time, money, and major headaches later on.
Why Accurate Measurement is Key in Kitchen Planning
Measure twice, cut once—this old saying holds very true in kitchen design. Even a small error in your measurements can cause big problems when new cabinets arrive. Wrong sizes mean doors won’t close. They mean countertops won’t sit right. This guide will show you simple steps for taking kitchen measurements for remodeling. We will help you create a solid cabinet measurement template.
Essential Tools for Kitchen Measurement Success
Before you start, gather the right tools. You don’t need fancy gear. Simple, reliable items work best for most projects.
- Tape Measure: A sturdy 25-foot or 30-foot tape measure is vital. Make sure it locks securely.
- Pencil and Paper: Bring plenty of them! Graph paper is great for drawing layouts.
- Level: A long level helps check if walls are straight.
- Calculator: Needed for adding and subtracting measurements.
- Straight Edge or Yardstick: Useful for drawing straight lines on your plans.
- Laser Measure (Optional but Helpful): These speed up the process, but you must verify all laser readings manually.
Step 1: Preparing Your Kitchen Space
You must start with a clean slate. Remove everything possible from the kitchen area. Take everything out of the existing cabinets. Clear the floors. This lets you see the actual walls and floor structure clearly.
Checking for Square and Level
Walls are rarely perfectly straight in older homes. You need to know how much your walls deviate. This affects how your final cabinets will fit.
Checking for Square
A room is “square” if its corners form perfect 90-degree angles.
- Measure the length of one wall (Wall A).
- Measure the length of the adjacent wall (Wall B).
- Measure diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner (Diagonal 1).
- Measure the other diagonal (Diagonal 2).
If Diagonal 1 equals Diagonal 2, your room is square. If they are different, the room is racked (not square). Note the difference; this impacts how you place your cabinets.
Checking for Plumb (Vertical Straightness)
Use your long level against the walls. Check the wall at the top, middle, and bottom. Note any spots where the wall bows inward or outward.
Step 2: Measuring the Walls for Base Cabinets
Base cabinet height measurement is crucial for standardizing your workflow. Most cabinets sit on the floor.
Measuring Wall Lengths
You must measure every wall segment where a cabinet will go. Measure from corner to corner.
- Measure at the floor: This is your most important measurement for the cabinet run.
- Measure at the top: Measure again near the ceiling.
- Measure in the middle: Measure halfway up the wall.
If the floor measurement differs from the top measurement, note the difference. This tells you if the floor slopes or the ceiling dips. Always base your cabinet order on the shortest measurement for that wall run. This ensures a small gap can be hidden later, but a gap that is too large cannot be fixed.
Accounting for Obstructions
List every item sticking out from the wall. These items reduce the space available for your new cabinets.
- Windows and Doors: Measure the width of the opening. Measure the distance from the corner to the edge of the opening.
- Vents and Outlets: Note their exact height from the floor and their width.
- Pipes or Radiators: Measure how far they stick out from the wall.
Every obstruction needs precise location data on your layout plan. This information is vital for how to measure for kitchen layout.
Step 3: Measuring for Upper Cabinets
Upper cabinets hang on the wall. Their measurements depend on the base cabinets below them and the ceiling above them.
Determining Standard Upper Cabinet Dimensions
While custom work is possible, knowing the standard kitchen cabinet dimensions helps in planning.
| Cabinet Type | Standard Height (Inches) | Standard Depth (Inches) |
|---|---|---|
| Base Cabinets | 34.5″ (not including countertop) | 24″ |
| Wall Cabinets | 30″, 36″, or 42″ | 12″ or 15″ |
Measuring Upper Cabinet Height and Clearance
The gap between the base cabinet (with countertop) and the upper cabinet is called backsplash height. Standard clearance is 18 inches.
- Measure Base Countertop Height: Measure from the floor to the top of the existing (or planned) base countertop. (Standard is about 36 inches).
- Measure Desired Upper Height: Decide how tall your upper cabinets will be (e.g., 36 inches).
- Calculate Ceiling Space: Measure from the top of the upper cabinet to the ceiling. You need enough room for crown molding or just to finish the space neatly.
Your upper cabinet depth measurement must clear any overhead items or tall appliances. Usually, upper cabinets are shallower than base cabinets (12″ or 15″ deep) so they don’t hit your head while you work at the counter.
Step 4: Planning for Specialized Areas
Kitchens have areas that require special attention—the sink, the stove, and corners.
Corner Cabinet Measurements
Corners are tricky. You must know if your corner is “blind” (one cabinet side is hidden) or “lazy Susan” style.
- Measure the length of the wall run leading up to the corner on both sides.
- If using a lazy Susan, the required cabinet opening size is usually listed by the manufacturer. Don’t guess; check the specific manufacturer’s specs for the door swing area.
Appliance Openings (Range Hoods, Refrigerators)
Appliances require specific rough openings.
- Range/Oven: Measure the width, height, and depth required by the appliance model you plan to buy.
- Refrigerator: Measure the width and depth. Remember to account for necessary door swing clearance beside the unit.
Step 5: Finalizing Countertop Overhang Measurement
The countertop sits on top of the base cabinets. It always sticks out slightly past the cabinet face frame. This is the countertop overhang measurement.
Standard base cabinet depth is 24 inches. Standard overhang is 1 to 1.5 inches.
If you order 24-inch deep base cabinets, the countertop should be 25 or 25.5 inches deep to allow for the overhang. This overhang protects the cabinet doors and drawers from spills. Always confirm the overhang depth specified by your countertop fabricator.
Creating Your Cabinet Measurement Template (The Blueprint)
A good cabinet measurement template is a clear drawing of your room. It acts as your final check before ordering.
- Draw the Room: Sketch the entire kitchen layout. Use graph paper for accuracy.
- Mark All Walls: Label each wall section with its shortest measured length.
- Mark Obstructions: Clearly draw and label every window, door, vent, and appliance space, noting their exact distance from the nearest corner.
- Indicate Cabinet Zones: Draw lines showing where base cabinets end and upper cabinets begin. Mark where different cabinet types will go (sink base, corner unit, drawer stack).
- Note Height Requirements: Add notes next to each zone for required heights (e.g., “18” backsplash clearance”).
This template is crucial for anyone measuring kitchen cabinets DIY or when consulting a designer.
Deciphering Cabinet Sizing Terminology
When you start looking at options, you’ll see industry terms. This part of the kitchen cabinet sizing guide helps you interpret them.
Nominal vs. Actual Dimensions
- Nominal Size: This is the easy-to-remember name size (e.g., a “30-inch cabinet”). This is what you use for general planning.
- Actual Size: This is the exact physical size of the cabinet box (e.g., a 30-inch nominal cabinet might actually be 29.5 inches wide).
Always order based on the nominal size, but use the actual size when placing it next to an appliance or another fixed item. Always check the manufacturer’s specifications for exact differences.
Standard Widths
Base cabinets usually come in 3-inch increments: 9″, 12″, 15″, 18″, 21″, 24″, 27″, 30″, 33″, 36″, and 42″. (Wider sizes are common for islands).
Explaining Sizing in Complex Spaces
If you measure a space and it comes out to 30.25 inches wide, you have a few options:
- Use a Wider Cabinet + Filler: Use a 33-inch cabinet and place a filler strip (usually 1.5″ to 3″) next to it to use up the extra space.
- Use a Narrower Cabinet + Filler: Use a 30-inch cabinet and put filler strips on both sides.
- Go Custom: If the space is oddly sized and you want no filler, you must opt for measuring for custom kitchen cabinets.
Special Considerations for Islands and Peninsulas
Islands require measuring both the exterior dimensions and the clear walkway space around them.
Walkway Clearances
Safety and functionality depend on open space.
- One Working Side (Wall next to Island): You need a minimum of 36 inches of clear space. 42 inches is better if two people frequently work near the range or sink.
- Two Working Sides (Island between two walls or cabinet runs): Aim for 42 inches minimum.
Measure the distance from the edge of the base cabinet (or the countertop overhang) to the nearest obstacle in every direction around the island.
Fathoming Advanced Measurement Checks
For serious DIY remodelers, these extra checks help prevent surprises.
Checking for Wall Interference at Height
If you are installing very deep upper cabinets (e.g., 15 inches deep), check if the wall protrudes more at the top than at the bottom. You might find that a deep cabinet fits fine at the bottom but hits a piece of crown molding or a ceiling bump-out near the top.
Appliance Panel Ready Cabinets
If you are ordering custom panels to cover your dishwasher or refrigerator, the cabinet maker needs extremely precise measurements for the panel, not just the cabinet box. The panel usually needs to be slightly larger than the appliance opening to overlap the edges correctly. Consult the appliance manufacturer’s panel installation guide specifically.
Finalizing Your Order: Reviewing the Kitchen Cabinet Sizing Guide
Once all measurements are taken and double-checked, create a final ordering sheet. This sheet must match the format required by your cabinet supplier.
| Location | Wall Run | Nominal Width | Nominal Height | Depth | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Corner Unit | West Wall | 36″ Lazy Susan | 34.5″ | 24″ | Check swing clearance |
| Sink Base | West Wall | 36″ | 34.5″ | 24″ | Plumbing access noted |
| Drawer Stack | East Wall | 18″ | 34.5″ | 24″ | Next to Stove |
Always compare your final list against the rough sketches. If you used filler strips in your drawing, note the exact width of the filler strip needed next to the cabinet.
By diligently following these steps, using the cabinet measurement template, and paying close attention to the base cabinet height measurement and upper cabinet depth measurement, you can confidently handle the measuring kitchen cabinets DIY process and ensure your new kitchen fits perfectly.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the standard depth for base kitchen cabinets?
The standard depth for base kitchen cabinets (the box itself) is 24 inches. This allows for a standard 25 or 25.5-inch countertop depth, providing the typical 1 to 1.5-inch overhang.
How much clearance is needed between the countertop and upper cabinets?
The standard clearance space, known as the backsplash height, is 18 inches. This allows enough room for small appliances and comfortable movement while working at the counter.
Do I measure walls at the floor or the ceiling?
You should measure wall lengths at the floor, the middle, and the ceiling. You must order your cabinets based on the shortest measurement you find, as cabinets cannot be made smaller than their stated size, but small gaps can be filled with trim or filler strips.
What does “measuring for custom kitchen cabinets” involve differently than stock cabinets?
When measuring for custom kitchen cabinets, you must provide highly specific dimensions for every single opening, sometimes down to the eighth of an inch. Custom shops build exactly what you order, so your initial measurements must account for door clearances, appliance fittings, and any idiosyncrasies of the room structure.
How do I handle a measurement that isn’t a standard size?
If your measurement is between standard sizes (e.g., you need 25.5 inches), you typically choose the next size up (e.g., a 27-inch cabinet) and use filler strips (pieces of matching wood trim) on one or both sides to take up the extra space exactly. For perfect fits, you need custom sizing.