If your kitchen sink is dripping, it usually means a part inside the faucet is worn out and needs replacing. You can often fix a kitchen sink dripping repair yourself. This guide will show you how to stop your faucet from leaking quickly.
Why Your Faucet Leaks
Faucets leak for a few main reasons. Water flows when you turn the handle. When you turn it off, the parts inside seal the water off. If these parts get old or broken, water can sneak past. This causes that annoying drip, drip, drip. Knowing the type of faucet you have helps a lot with fixing leaky kitchen tap jobs.
Common Kitchen Faucet Problems
Several issues lead to leaks. Knowing the source helps you choose the right fix. These are the most common kitchen faucet problems:
- Worn-Out Washers: These small rubber or plastic rings press against parts to stop water flow. They get hard or cracked over time.
- Damaged Cartridges: Many modern faucets use a cartridge. This part controls water flow and temperature. If it fails, the faucet leaks.
- Bad O-Rings: These seal the spout base. If they fail, water might leak from around the spout, not just the tip.
- Loose Parts: Sometimes, a packing nut or handle screw loosens up. Tightening it might solve the issue.
- Corrosion: Hard water can leave mineral buildup. This buildup stops parts from sealing tightly.
Faucet Types and Their Leaks
Not all faucets are the same. They use different parts to control water. This means the fix changes based on your faucet type.
| Faucet Type | How Water Stops | Common Leak Source |
|---|---|---|
| Compression | Two handles, use rubber washers | Worn-out seat washers or worn valve seats. |
| Ball | Single handle moves over a ball | Worn inlet seals or the rotating ball itself. |
| Cartridge | Single or double handle, moves up/down or side/side | The internal plastic or metal cartridge. |
| Ceramic Disc | Single handle, uses ceramic discs | Damaged inlet seals or cracked ceramic discs (rare). |
If you aren’t sure what type you have, look at the handles. Compression faucets have two separate handles for hot and cold. Single-handle faucets are usually cartridge or ball types.
Getting Ready for DIY Kitchen Faucet Repair
Before you start any DIY kitchen faucet repair, preparation is key. Safety first! You need the right tools and to shut off the water supply.
Essential Tools You Will Need
Gathering your tools beforehand saves time. You don’t want to hunt for a wrench mid-job.
- Adjustable wrench
- Pliers (needle-nose and standard)
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
- Allen wrench set (for handle screws)
- Utility knife or putty knife (to pry caps)
- White vinegar (for cleaning mineral buildup)
- Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
- Towel or rag
Step 1: Shutting Off The Water Supply
This is the most important step. If you skip this, you will have a flood!
- Look under your kitchen sink cabinet.
- You should see two small shut-off valves. One is for hot water, one is for cold water.
- Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This shuts off the water flow to the faucet.
- Turn the faucet handles on fully. Let any remaining water drain out. This relieves pressure in the lines.
- Place a towel or rag inside the sink basin. This protects the finish and catches small dropped screws.
Fixing Leaks in Compression Faucets (Two Handles)
Compression faucets are older styles. They rely on physically squashing a washer against a valve seat to stop water.
Step 2: Disassembling the Handle
- Look for a decorative cap on top of the handle (it might say “Hot” or “Cold”). Use a thin knife or small flathead screwdriver to gently pop this cap off.
- Under the cap, you will find a handle screw. Use the right screwdriver to remove this screw. Keep it safe!
- Lift the handle straight up and off the faucet stem. If it is stuck, try wiggling it gently. Do not force it too hard.
Step 3: Accessing the Stem and Washer
- You will now see the valve stem assembly. Use your adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut around the stem. Turn counter-clockwise.
- Carefully pull the entire stem assembly out of the faucet body.
- Look at the bottom of the stem. You will see the faucet washer held in place by a brass screw. This is likely the culprit for your leak.
Step 4: Replacing Worn Components
This process is key to successfully replace faucet washer.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the brass screw holding the old washer.
- Remove the old washer. If it is flat, cracked, or brittle, it needs replacing.
- Take the old washer to a hardware store. Match the size exactly.
- Install the new washer. Put the brass screw back in place and tighten it gently. Do not overtighten.
- While you have the stem out, look at the small O-rings around the stem body. If they look cracked or worn, replace these too. This helps stop kitchen faucet leak around the handle base.
- Inspect the valve seat inside the faucet body (where the stem screws in). If it looks rough or pitted, you might need a seat wrench to remove and replace it, or use a seat dressing tool to smooth it down.
Step 5: Reassembly and Testing
- Screw the stem assembly back into the faucet body. Tighten the packing nut with your wrench.
- Put the handle back on, replace the handle screw, and snap the decorative cap back on.
- Slowly turn the water supply valves back on under the sink (counter-clockwise).
- Test the faucet. If the drip is gone, you succeeded!
Fixing Leaks in Cartridge Faucets (Single Handle)
Cartridge faucets are very common today. They use a self-contained plastic or metal cylinder—the cartridge—to control flow. If this leaks, the solution is dripping faucet cartridge replacement.
Step 2: Removing the Handle
- Find the set screw holding the handle on. This is usually located on the side or back of the handle base. Often, it is hidden under a small decorative button or plug.
- Use an Allen wrench (hex key) to loosen and remove this screw.
- Pull the handle straight off.
Step 3: Accessing and Removing the Cartridge
- You may see a small decorative cap or dome covering the valve body. Remove this by unscrewing it or prying it off gently.
- You will see a retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge in place.
- If it has a retaining clip: This is usually a small brass or plastic U-shaped clip. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the clip straight up and out.
- If it has a retaining nut: Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew this nut counter-clockwise.
- Grasp the top of the visible cartridge body with pliers. Gently twist it slightly while pulling straight up. It might take some effort if it’s stuck. Be careful not to damage the plastic housing.
Step 4: Installing the New Cartridge
The best way to fix leaky faucet of this type is replacing the entire cartridge.
- Take the old cartridge to the store. Cartridges are brand and model-specific. You must get an exact match. Look for part numbers etched on the side.
- Note the orientation of the old cartridge. It usually has markings (like H/C indicators or tabs) that must align perfectly when installed.
- Insert the new cartridge, making sure the alignment tabs fit into the slots in the faucet body. Push it down firmly until it seats completely.
- Replace the retaining clip or tighten the retaining nut. Ensure it is snug, but do not overtighten, as this can crack the housing.
Step 5: Finishing Up
- Reattach the decorative cap and the handle.
- Secure the handle with the set screw.
- Turn the water supply back on slowly under the sink.
- Test for drips and leaks.
Addressing Leaks in Ball Faucets
Ball faucets use a rotating metal or plastic ball that controls water flow through slots. These often leak from the base of the spout or around the handle.
Step 2: Handle and Cap Removal
- Locate the small set screw holding the handle in place (usually on the side). Use an Allen wrench to loosen it and remove the handle.
- Unscrew the cap or dome that covers the ball assembly. You may need pliers, but wrap the faucet base with a soft cloth first to prevent scratching.
Step 3: Disassembling the Ball Mechanism
- You will see the cam, packing, and the rotating ball. Remove the cam and packing assembly by lifting them out.
- Lift the rotating ball out of its socket.
Step 4: Replacing Seals and Springs
This is where fixing leaky kitchen tap gets detailed for ball types.
- Inside the faucet body, look down into the openings where the water enters. You will see small rubber seals resting on tiny springs. These are the inlet seals.
- Use needle-nose pliers or a small screwdriver to lift out the old springs and seals.
- Install the new springs first, followed by the new rubber seals placed directly on top of the springs.
- You may also need to replace the small O-rings located around the base of the spout if water is leaking from there.
Step 5: Reassembly
- Place the ball back into its socket. Make sure the small groove or pin on the ball lines up correctly with the slot in the faucet body.
- Place the new cam and packing assembly back over the ball.
- Screw the cap back on tightly.
- Reattach the handle and secure the set screw.
- Restore water supply and check your work.
Fixing Leaks in Ceramic Disc Faucets
Ceramic disc faucets are known for being very reliable. Leaks here are less frequent but usually require replacing the entire disc assembly or its seals.
Step 2: Accessing the Disc Cylinder
- Remove the handle using the set screw (similar to the cartridge faucet).
- Unscrew the metal or plastic housing cap that covers the cylinder.
- Remove the screws holding the cylinder housing in place and lift the entire disc cylinder assembly out.
Step 3: Seal Replacement or Cylinder Swap
- The bottom of the cylinder usually has inlet seals. Remove the old seals and springs, just like in the ball faucet section. Replace them with new ones.
- If the discs themselves are scratched or cracked (rare), you must replace the entire disc cylinder assembly. Ensure the replacement matches the original exactly.
- Clean any mineral deposits from the faucet base using vinegar before setting the new assembly in place.
Step 4: Putting It Back Together
- Carefully seat the disc cylinder back into the faucet body, making sure any alignment pins match the holes.
- Secure the housing cap and screws.
- Reinstall the handle.
- Turn the water back on slowly.
Dealing with Spout Base Leaks (O-Rings)
If water pools around the base of the spout when the faucet is running, the problem is usually the O-rings under the spout, not the main valve components. This applies to many faucet types.
Step 1: Removing the Spout
- Ensure the water is off.
- Remove the faucet handle (refer to your faucet type disassembly steps above).
- You must remove the parts blocking the spout from lifting off. This often means removing the retaining clip or nut that holds the valve stem/cartridge assembly in place.
- Once the internal mechanism is removed, the spout should lift straight up. If it resists, it might have mineral buildup locking it in place. Twist gently while pulling up.
Step 2: Replacing the O-Rings
- Examine the base of the spout body where it sits on the faucet base. You will see one or more rubber O-rings wrapped around it.
- Use a small tool or screwdriver to gently roll or cut the old O-rings off.
- Clean the spout base thoroughly. Use a bit of plumber’s grease (silicone grease) on the new O-rings before sliding them onto the spout base. The grease helps them slide on easily and protects them from friction.
Step 3: Reassembly
- Slide the spout back down over the body.
- Reinstall the internal valve parts (cartridge, stem, etc.).
- Reattach the handle.
- Turn the water on and check the spout base for leaks.
Advanced Troubleshooting: When the Leak Persists
If you completed the repair and the faucet still leaks, you might have missed something, or the problem is deeper. This is when you might need to look into calling a professional or consulting a kitchen faucet repair guide specific to your brand.
Checking the Valve Seat
In compression faucets, the valve seat is the brass fitting the washer presses against. If this seat is corroded or pitted, even a new washer won’t seal perfectly.
- Fix: You need a seat wrench to unscrew the old seat. Then, thread in a new seat. If you do not have the right tools, or if the seat is hard to reach, this might be a sign to call a professional.
Cartridge Alignment Issues
If you replaced a cartridge and the leak continues, the new part might not be sitting perfectly flush.
- Fix: Turn the water off again. Take the cartridge out. Look closely at the housing slots. Did you seat the new cartridge exactly as the old one was positioned? Adjust the seating and re-secure the retaining clip or nut.
Water Pressure Problems
Very high water pressure in your home can stress faucet seals, leading to premature failure or slow leaks that refuse to stop.
- Fix: Check your home’s water pressure with a gauge attached to an outdoor spigot. If it is over 80 psi, you should install a pressure reducing valve (PRV) on your main water line.
When to Call a Professional: Finding a Plumber Near Me for Leaky Faucet
While many faucet issues are great for DIY kitchen faucet repair, some situations require expert help. Knowing when to stop is part of being a good DIYer.
Call a professional if:
- You cannot shut off the water: If the shut-off valves under the sink are old, stuck, or leak themselves, do not force them. A plumber can shut off the main house supply.
- The faucet body is cracked: If you see cracks in the metal housing of the faucet itself, replacement is necessary, which is a complex job.
- Parts are completely seized: If a retaining nut or stem is so corroded that it will not budge without risking breaking the pipes, call for help.
- You cannot find the right parts: Identifying obscure faucet brands can be tough. A professional will have access to specialized suppliers.
- The leak moves elsewhere: If you fix the drip, but now water leaks from under the sink, you have a supply line issue that needs attention from a plumber near me for leaky faucet.
A good local plumber near me for leaky faucet can often diagnose complex issues quickly, saving you time and potential water damage.
Maintaining Your Faucet to Prevent Future Leaks
Prevention is easier than repair. Simple maintenance keeps your faucet working smoothly and extends the life of those seals and cartridges.
Regular Cleaning Tips
Hard water leaves mineral deposits. These deposits can score metal surfaces or prevent rubber parts from sealing correctly.
- Wipe down chrome surfaces often with a soft cloth.
- Once a month, soak small parts like aerators (the screen at the tip of the spout) in white vinegar overnight to dissolve scale.
Periodic Inspection
Make it a habit to check your faucet every few months.
- Check the area under the sink for moisture or corrosion.
- Gently feel around the handle bases while the water is running to see if any water seeps out. If it does, it might be time for new O-rings, a simple fix that prevents bigger problems down the road.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How long should it take to fix a dripping faucet?
A: For simple fixes like replace faucet washer on a compression faucet, it often takes 30 to 60 minutes, including preparation. Replacing a cartridge might take 45 to 90 minutes, depending on how hard it is to remove the old part.
Q: Can I use Teflon tape on a dripping faucet?
A: Teflon tape (or plumber’s tape) is primarily used to seal threaded pipe joints to prevent leaks between pipes. It is generally not used inside the moving parts of a faucet (like washers or cartridges) where sealing relies on compression or specific moving components. It can sometimes be used on the threads of the spout base if you are fixing leaky kitchen tap joints, but it won’t fix a failed washer or cartridge.
Q: What causes a faucet to leak from the base of the spout?
A: This usually means the O-rings that seal the spout to the faucet body have worn out. This is a very common issue, and replacing these O-rings is usually the answer to stop kitchen faucet leak around the base.
Q: Is it cheaper to fix the faucet myself or call a plumber?
A: For simple repairs like replacing a washer or cartridge, DIY kitchen faucet repair is much cheaper. Parts usually cost under $20. A plumber’s service call often starts at $75 to $150, plus the cost of parts. If you are confident with tools, DIY is the cost-saver.