If your kitchen faucet is leaking, you can often fix it yourself with basic tools. Leaky faucet repair is usually due to worn-out internal parts like washers, O-rings, or cartridges. The fix often involves shutting off the water, taking the faucet apart, replacing the faulty part, and putting it back together.
Pinpointing the Source of the Drip
Before you start any DIY faucet repair, you must find where the water is coming from. A leak can manifest in a few common ways. Fixing these issues quickly saves water and stops annoying sounds.
Identifying Common Leak Locations
A faucet leak is rarely random. It usually points to a specific failing component. Look closely at where the water appears.
- Dripping from the Spout: This is the most common issue. It means the seal inside the faucet body is bad. This is often a dripping kitchen tap fix involving the cartridge or washers.
- Leaking Around the Handle Base: Water seeping out when the water is running or turned off suggests a problem with the packing nuts or the seals around the handle stem. This often needs fixing faucet handle components.
- Water Seeping Under the Faucet Base: If water pools around where the faucet meets the sink deck, the mounting nuts might be loose, or the gasket underneath is damaged. You might need to tighten loose kitchen faucet hardware.
Pre-Repair Checklist: Safety First
Safety and preparation stop small jobs from becoming big messes. Always follow these steps before touching any tools.
Shutting Off the Water Supply
You cannot fix a faucet while water is flowing. You must turn off the water supply valves.
- Locate Shut-Off Valves: Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves connected to the hot and cold water lines going up to the faucet.
- Turn Off the Water: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This closes the water flow to the faucet.
- Drain Remaining Water: Turn on the faucet handles (both hot and cold) to release any pressure and drain the leftover water in the lines. Leave the handles in the ‘on’ position.
- Protect the Sink: Place a towel or rag inside the sink basin. This prevents small screws or parts from falling down the drain.
Essential Tools for the Job
Most faucet repairs are simple. You usually do not need many specialized tools. Gather these items first:
- Adjustable wrench
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- Pliers (needle-nose are helpful)
- Cartridge puller (sometimes needed for stubborn cartridges)
- White vinegar and an old toothbrush (for cleaning)
- Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
Fixing Different Types of Kitchen Faucets
Faucets come in several styles. The way you fix one style might differ from another. Knowing your faucet type is key to successful leaky faucet repair.
Single-Handle Faucets (Cartridge or Ball Type)
Single-handle faucets control both temperature and flow with one lever. They often use a cartridge.
Replacing Kitchen Faucet Cartridge
The cartridge is the brain of the faucet. When it wears out, you get drips or difficulty controlling the flow. Replacing kitchen faucet cartridge is a common task.
- Remove the Handle: Look for a small decorative cap or plug, usually hiding a set screw. Pry off the cap gently with a small flathead screwdriver. Use an Allen wrench or screwdriver to loosen the set screw holding the handle onto the stem. Lift the handle off.
- Expose the Retaining Nut/Clip: You will see a dome or retaining nut holding the cartridge in place. Remove the nut using pliers or a wrench. Some newer models use a small metal clip instead of a nut; pull this clip straight up with needle-nose pliers.
- Remove the Old Cartridge: Grasp the top of the exposed cartridge firmly. You may need a special cartridge puller tool if it is stuck. Pull it straight up and out. Note the orientation of the old cartridge—it must go back in the same way.
- Install the New Cartridge: Match the new cartridge exactly to the old one. Insert the new one, ensuring any alignment tabs fit correctly into the faucet body slots.
- Reassemble: Secure the retaining nut or clip. Reattach the handle and tighten the set screw. Test the water flow.
Two-Handle Faucets (Compression and Ceramic Disc)
These older faucets rely on separate handles for hot and cold water.
Repairing Compression Faucets
Compression faucets use rubber washers that are pressed down onto a valve seat to stop water flow.
- Disassemble Handles: Remove the decorative caps. Unscrew the screws holding the handles. Pull the handles off.
- Remove the Stem Assembly: Use a wrench to unscrew the packing nut, exposing the stem. Remove the stem assembly.
- Check the Washer: At the bottom of the stem, you will find a small rubber washer held by a screw. This is usually the culprit for drips.
- Remove the screw and replace the old washer with a new one of the same size.
- If the leak is around the handle, replace the small O-rings around the stem body as well. This is part of fixing faucet handle issues.
- Inspect the Valve Seat: Look inside the faucet body where the stem sits. If the metal seat is rough or pitted, new washers will wear out fast. You may need a seat wrench to remove and replace the seat, or a seat dressing tool to smooth it down.
- Reassemble: Screw the stem back in, tighten the packing nut, and reattach the handles.
Fixing Ceramic Disc Faucets
These are more modern and rarely drip, but when they do, it usually requires replacing the entire ceramic disc assembly (which acts like a cartridge). The process is similar to replacing kitchen faucet cartridge, but instead of a plastic or brass cartridge, you replace a sealed ceramic unit.
Addressing Flow and Pressure Issues
Sometimes the faucet works fine but delivers very little water. This isn’t a drip, but it’s a common plumbing annoyance that needs attention. This requires a low water pressure faucet fix.
Cleaning Clogged Faucet Aerator
The aerator is the small screen at the very tip of the spout. It mixes air with water to create a smooth stream. It often catches sediment, causing low flow. Cleaning clogged faucet aerator is the easiest flow fix.
- Remove the Aerator: Most modern aerators unscrew counter-clockwise by hand or with a soft cloth and pliers to prevent scratching.
- Disassemble and Soak: Take the aerator apart completely (it usually has a screen, a rubber gasket, and a housing).
- Cleaning Process: Soak all parts in a small cup of white vinegar for at least 30 minutes. Vinegar dissolves mineral deposits (calcium and lime).
- Scrub Gently: Use an old toothbrush to scrub away any stubborn debris from the mesh screens. Rinse thoroughly.
- Reassemble and Test: Put the aerator back together correctly and screw it onto the spout. Turn on the water. If the flow improves, you solved the low water pressure faucet fix.
Checking Supply Lines and Shut-Off Valves
If cleaning the aerator does not help, the restriction is further back in the system.
- Inspect Supply Lines: Disconnect the flexible lines under the sink. Look for kinks. If they look old or cracked, replace them.
- Valve Check: Fully open the shut-off valves you closed earlier. If the valve handle only turns halfway, the valve itself is failing internally, causing a permanent restriction. This is the time to replace the valve, not just fix the faucet.
How to Repair a Running Faucet (Beyond a Simple Drip)
A running faucet often means the internal seal cannot hold pressure, even if it’s not actively dripping when off. This is a more severe version of the drip, often needing a full replacement of the moving parts. How to repair a running faucet is almost always synonymous with replacing the cartridge or stem assembly, as detailed above.
If you have replaced the cartridge/washers and the faucet still runs, check these two things:
- Is the New Part Correct? Ensure the replacement part matches the brand and model exactly. Generic parts often fail quickly.
- Is the Faucet Body Damaged? Deep scratches or corrosion inside the faucet body can prevent even new seals from seating properly. This damage often signals the end of life for that fixture.
When to Consider Kitchen Faucet Replacement Guide
Sometimes, fixing the leak becomes more complex, time-consuming, or expensive than buying a new unit. If your faucet is very old, corroded, or if multiple parts fail at once, refer to this kitchen faucet replacement guide.
Signs It’s Time to Replace
| Condition | Why Replacement is Recommended |
|---|---|
| Severe Corrosion | Internal corrosion prevents new parts from sealing. |
| Cracked Housing | Visible cracks in the metal body mean water will escape elsewhere soon. |
| Constant Leaks | After two or three attempts at leaky faucet repair, the fixture is likely worn out. |
| Unobtainable Parts | If you cannot find the specific cartridge or stem assembly for your model. |
| Aesthetic Issues | The finish is heavily worn, or you want a new style. |
Steps for Kitchen Faucet Replacement
Replacing the entire unit requires more work but offers a completely fresh start.
- Turn Off Water: Shut off both hot and cold supply lines under the sink. Drain the lines.
- Disconnect Supply Lines: Use a wrench to disconnect the flexible supply lines from the base of the faucet shank. Be ready for a little water spillage.
- Remove Mounting Nuts: Look up under the sink basin. There will be large nuts or a mounting bracket securing the faucet to the sink deck. Use a basin wrench (a long tool designed for this tight space) to loosen and remove these nuts.
- Lift Out the Old Faucet: Go above the sink and lift the old faucet straight out of the hole. Clean the sink deck area thoroughly.
- Install the New Faucet: Set the new faucet base or gasket into position. From underneath, tighten the new mounting nuts or bracket securely. Do not overtighten, but ensure it doesn’t wiggle.
- Connect Water Lines: Attach the new supply lines to the corresponding hot and cold water connections on the faucet shank. Connect the other ends to the shut-off valves.
- Test: Slowly turn the water supply valves back on. Check under the sink immediately for leaks at the connections. Run the faucet to check flow and temperature control.
Advanced Troubleshooting: Dealing with Squeaks and Stiffness
A faucet that doesn’t drip but is hard to move needs attention, usually involving lubrication or tighten loose kitchen faucet components.
Lubricating Moving Parts
If the handle is stiff or squeaks when you move it, the internal friction is too high. This often happens after a cartridge replacement if no lubricant was applied.
- Use plumber’s silicone grease (NSF approved) only. Do not use petroleum jelly, as it breaks down rubber parts.
- Apply a light coating to the O-rings, the exterior of the cartridge, and the threads of the stem before reassembly. This makes future fixing faucet handle issues much easier.
Securing the Faucet Base
If you notice movement when using the faucet, you must tighten loose kitchen faucet hardware.
- Get under the sink.
- Locate the mounting nuts or bracket holding the faucet neck to the sink.
- Use your basin wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten these fasteners firmly. Wiggle the faucet top; if it is stable, the tightening is sufficient.
Faucet Maintenance for Longevity
Regular care prevents minor issues from turning into major repairs. Good habits reduce the need for emergency leaky faucet repair.
Seasonal Maintenance Tips
- Check Aerators Quarterly: Remove and clean the aerator every three months, especially if you have hard water.
- Test Shut-Off Valves Annually: Briefly turn the under-sink shut-off valves off and on once a year. This ensures they do not seize up when you truly need them for a repair.
- Inspect Hoses: If you have braided stainless steel supply hoses, check them yearly for bulges or leaks. Replace them proactively if they look damaged before they burst.
By performing these simple maintenance checks, you drastically lower the chances of needing an emergency dripping kitchen tap fix.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Repair
Q1: Can I fix a leak without shutting off the main water supply to the house?
Yes, for most kitchen faucet repairs, you only need to turn off the dedicated hot and cold shut-off valves located directly under the sink. Only if those valves are old, stuck, or leaking themselves should you consider shutting off the main house supply.
Q2: How do I know if I need a new cartridge or just new O-rings?
If the leak is a steady drip from the spout, the main seal inside the cartridge is usually the problem, requiring replacing kitchen faucet cartridge. If water seeps out from around the base of the handle when running, the O-rings on the stem or cartridge are likely failing, which can sometimes be fixed by replacing just the O-rings or lubricating them.
Q3: My faucet is dripping, but I can’t find the brand name. Can I still buy the right parts?
Finding the brand is crucial for internal parts like cartridges. If you can’t find the brand name on the faucet body, take the old cartridge or stem assembly with you to a reputable plumbing supply store. They can often match the part based on its shape and size, even without knowing the brand name.
Q4: What is the best way to tighten loose kitchen faucet if the nuts are impossible to reach?
If you cannot reach the nuts under the sink with a standard wrench, you need a specialized tool called a basin wrench. This tool has a long handle and a pivoting jaw designed specifically to grip and turn nuts in confined sink cabinets.
Q5: Does poor water flow mean I need a low water pressure faucet fix or is the issue in the pipes?
Poor flow that affects only one faucet is usually the faucet itself. Start by cleaning clogged faucet aerator. If that doesn’t work, check the cartridge (it may be partially clogged) or the supply line leading to that specific faucet. If all faucets in the house have low pressure, the issue is likely with your main water line or the main shut-off valve.