Easy Steps: How To Change A Kitchen Sink Faucet

Can I change a kitchen sink faucet myself? Yes, you can definitely change a kitchen sink faucet yourself. This task is a common do-it-yourself (DIY) project. With the right tools and clear steps, most homeowners can successfully install kitchen faucet units. We will walk through the entire process, making it simple and easy to follow. Replacing an old fixture is a great way to update your kitchen look and fix leaks. This guide covers everything from shutting off the water to making the final connections.

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Getting Ready: Tools and Preparation

Before you begin, gathering all necessary items ensures a smooth job. A successful project starts with good preparation. This helps avoid frustrating trips to the hardware store mid-task.

Essential Tools Checklist

Here is a list of items you will likely need to replace sink tap:

• New kitchen faucet unit
• Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
• Bucket or small tub
• Old towels or rags
• Safety glasses
• Pliers (channel locks work well)
• Putty knife or scraper
• Flashlight or headlamp
• Plumber’s putty or silicone sealant
• Teflon tape (plumber’s tape)
• Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead)

Tip: A basin wrench is highly recommended. It is specifically designed to reach tight spaces under the sink to reach the faucet mounting nuts.

Safety First! Shutting Off the Water Supply

The most crucial first step is cutting off the water supply. If you skip this, you will flood your cabinets!

1. Locate the Shut-Off Valves: Look directly under the sink. You should see two valves, one for hot water (usually marked red) and one for cold water (usually marked blue).
2. Turn Off the Water: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. They should be snug, but do not force them too hard.
3. Test the Faucet: Turn on the old faucet handles above the sink. Water should stop flowing, or only a small trickle should come out. This confirms the water is off.
4. Relieve Pressure: Leave the faucet handles open while you work. This releases any leftover water pressure in the lines.

Clearing the Workspace

You need room to maneuver under the sink.

• Remove everything from the cabinet below the sink.
• Place a bucket directly under the water lines and the old faucet base.
• Lay down old towels. Water will spill out when you disconnect the lines.

Phase One: Removing the Old Fixture

The next major step is to remove kitchen faucet. This can sometimes be the toughest part, especially if the old faucet has been in place for many years. Corrosion or mineral buildup can make nuts hard to turn.

Disconnecting Water Supply Lines

You must first disconnect old faucet supply lines.

1. Identify Lines: Find where the flexible supply lines connect to the shut-off valves. These lines usually connect the existing faucet body to the hot and cold water supply pipes.
2. Use the Wrench: Hold the shut-off valve steady with one hand or a wrench. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen the coupling nut connecting the supply line to the valve. Turn the nut counter-clockwise.
3. Catch Spills: Have your bucket ready. A small amount of water will drain from these lines.
4. Repeat: Do this for both the hot and cold lines.

If your old faucet used rigid copper pipes instead of flexible hoses, you might need to cut the pipes with a tubing cutter. However, most modern installations use flexible lines.

Loosening the Faucet Mounting Nuts

This is where the basin wrench earns its keep. The faucet mounting nuts hold the faucet body firmly to the sink deck or countertop.

1. Locate Mounting Hardware: Look up underneath the sink where the faucet base sits. You will see large nuts or mounting plates secured by screws or bolts.
2. Use the Basin Wrench: Fit the jaws of the basin wrench around the largest nut.
3. Turn Counter-Clockwise: Carefully turn the nut counter-clockwise. It might take significant effort. If it is stuck, apply penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes, then try again.
4. Remove All Hardware: Continue loosening until all nuts and washers securing the faucet are off.

Lifting Out the Old Faucet

Once the lines and nuts are removed, the old unit should be free.

1. Check the Top: Go above the sink. Gently lift the old faucet straight up and out of the mounting holes.
2. Clean the Surface: Use your scraper or putty knife to carefully remove any old plumber’s putty, silicone, or mineral deposits left behind on the sink surface. A clean surface is vital for the new seal. Wipe the area dry with a rag.

This completes the process to remove kitchen faucet.

Phase Two: Preparing the New Faucet

Before you connect new sink faucet, you need to assemble some parts on the new unit itself, usually done on a clean workbench or floor.

Reading the Manufacturer’s Instructions

Every new faucet is slightly different. Always refer to the specific directions that came with your new unit. They show the proper order for installing gaskets, bases, and mounting hardware.

Installing Supply Lines (If Not Pre-Attached)

Many new faucets come with the hot and cold water lines already attached to the faucet body. If yours are separate:

1. Apply Teflon Tape: Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the threaded ends of the faucet inlet shanks where the supply lines will attach. Wrap it about three times.
2. Attach Lines: Screw the flexible supply lines onto the base of the new faucet. Hand-tighten them first, then give them a slight turn with a wrench. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the internal seals.

Installing the Gasket and Base Plate

The gasket or deck plate provides the seal between the faucet and the sink.

1. Gasket Placement: Place the rubber gasket (or sometimes a foam piece) onto the bottom of the faucet body or the deck plate. This stops water from seeping underneath.
2. Deck Plate (If Applicable): If your sink has three holes but your new faucet only uses one, you will use the deck plate (escutcheon) to cover the extra holes. Set this plate over the holes now.

Phase Three: Installing the New Faucet

Now it is time to carefully mount the new unit in place. This is where the task of installing kitchen faucet begins in earnest.

Setting the Faucet in Place

1. Feed Lines Through: Carefully feed the supply lines and the main faucet shank(s) down through the mounting hole(s) in the sink or countertop. Ensure the faucet is straight and facing the correct direction (spout facing forward).
2. Positioning: From underneath the sink, slide the provided washers and mounting hardware up onto the faucet shank.

Securing the Faucet Base

This step requires careful alignment to ensure a watertight fit. You must properly tighten faucet base.

1. Hand Tighten First: Screw the faucet mounting nuts onto the faucet shank by hand until they are snug against the washer.
2. Check Alignment Again: Before final tightening, have someone hold the faucet steady above the sink, or look up to ensure it is perfectly straight.
3. Final Tightening: Use your basin wrench or the appropriate tool provided by the manufacturer to tighten the mounting nuts. Turn them clockwise firmly. They need to be tight enough so the faucet does not wobble, but do not crush the sink material or the rubber gasket. A good rule of thumb is to make them very tight, then back off a quarter turn.

Sealing Sink Faucet (If Using Putty)

If your faucet instructions call for plumber’s putty instead of or in addition to a rubber gasket:

1. Roll the Putty: Roll a thin rope of plumber’s putty (about the thickness of a pencil) and press it around the underside rim of the faucet base or deck plate.
2. Press Down: Press the faucet firmly into place from above.
3. Clean Excess: Once secured from below, excess putty will squeeze out around the edges. Wipe this away neatly with your finger or a rag. Plumber’s putty seals out water effectively. Note: Silicone sealant can be used for a more permanent, waterproof seal, especially on stone countertops, but requires curing time.

Phase Four: Connecting the Water Supply Lines

This is the final stage of the kitchen plumbing repair. Accuracy here prevents future leaks.

Connecting to the Shut-Off Valves

You need to connect the new flexible hot and cold water lines to the corresponding shut-off valves under the sink.

1. Apply Teflon Tape (If Needed): Check the threads on the shut-off valves. If they are metal-to-metal connections, wrap the threads with Teflon tape clockwise for a better seal.
2. Connect Hot to Hot, Cold to Cold: Match the lines correctly. Usually, the line coming from the left side of the faucet connects to the hot valve, and the right connects to the cold valve.
3. Hand Tighten: Screw the coupling nuts onto the valve threads by hand until they are snug.
4. Wrench Tighten: Use your adjustable wrench to tighten the connection an extra half turn to three-quarters of a turn. Be careful not to overtighten. Overtightening can strip the threads or damage the inner plastic or rubber washer inside the coupling nut.

Connecting to Sprayers or Accessories (If Applicable)

If your new faucet includes a pull-down sprayer or side spray:

1. Install Weight: Clip the provided weight onto the sprayer hose loop underneath the sink. This weight helps the sprayer head retract smoothly.
2. Connect Hose: Attach the sprayer hose connection securely to the outlet port on the faucet body, following the manufacturer’s specific instructions for quick-connect systems or threaded fittings.

Phase Five: Testing for Leaks

Never assume the job is done until you have tested every connection under full pressure.

1. Turn Water On Slowly: Go back to the shut-off valves. Slowly turn the handles counter-clockwise to restore the water supply. Listen for any immediate rushing sounds that shouldn’t be there.
2. Check Connections: While the water is slowly coming back on, use a flashlight to inspect every connection you made: where the supply lines meet the faucet, and where they meet the shut-off valves. If you see drips, gently tighten that specific connection slightly more.
3. Test Faucet Operation: Once the water is fully on, run both the hot and cold water at full blast for a minute. Check the flow rate.
4. The Critical Check: Turn the faucet off. Wait five minutes. Then, get down under the sink with a dry paper towel and physically feel around every connection point, nut, and washer for any hint of moisture. Pay extra attention to the area where you had to tighten faucet base.

If everything is dry after 15 minutes, congratulations! You have successfully completed your kitchen plumbing repair and installed your new fixture.

Choosing the Right Faucet Style

When you decide to install kitchen faucet, selecting the right type is important for both aesthetics and function. Modern faucets come in several popular configurations.

Faucet Type	Description	Best For	Installation Complexity
Single Handle	One lever controls both temperature and flow. Easiest to use one-handed.	Busy kitchens; modern designs.	Moderate
Double Handle	Separate handles for hot and cold water. Offers precise temperature control.	Traditional kitchens; detailed temperature needs.	Slightly higher (more lines to manage)
Pull-Down/Pull-Out	The spray head detaches from the spout via a flexible hose.	Deep sinks; cleaning large pots.	Moderate to High (due to sprayer hose/weight)
Touchless/Sensor	Activates water flow with a wave of the hand. Requires external power source (batteries or AC adapter).	High hygiene needs; easy access.	High (requires electrical setup)

Advanced Tips for Stubborn Removal

Sometimes, getting rid of the old unit proves very challenging. If you cannot loosen the nuts holding your old fixture, specialized techniques can help.

Dealing with Corrosion

If rust or mineral deposits have essentially glued the nuts in place:

• Penetrating Oil: Spray a good quality penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) directly onto the threads of the nut and the faucet shank. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes, or even overnight if possible. This helps break down the rust bond.
• Heat Application (Use Extreme Caution): For metal fittings only, carefully apply localized heat using a small propane torch. Heat expands the outer nut, often loosening its grip. Never use heat near plastic pipes, flexible supply lines, or the underside of a wood or laminate countertop.

When All Else Fails: Cutting It Out

If the nuts simply refuse to turn, you may have to cut them off.

1. Use a Hacksaw or Oscillating Tool: A small hacksaw blade or an oscillating multi-tool with a metal-cutting attachment can carefully cut through the mounting nut or mounting bracket. Cut only the hardware, taking extreme care not to nick the sink itself.
2. Be Patient: This is slow work, but it guarantees removal when brute force fails.

Maintenance for Your New Fixture

Once you successfully connect new sink faucet, a little routine maintenance keeps it running smoothly for years.

• Regular Wiping: Wipe down the faucet exterior weekly. Hard water deposits dull the finish quickly.
• Check Tightness Annually: Every year, check the faucet mounting nuts underneath the sink. Slight settling or vibrations can loosen them. A quick half-turn with the basin wrench can prevent small leaks from becoming big problems.
• Cleaning Aerator: The small screen at the tip of the spout (the aerator) can get clogged with sediment. Unscrew it every six months, clean out any debris, and soak it in white vinegar before reattaching.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it usually take to change a kitchen sink faucet?
A: For someone with basic DIY skills and no stuck parts, the process typically takes between one to three hours. The longest part is often removing the old unit.

Q: Do I need to turn off the main water supply to the house?
A: No, usually you only need to turn off the two shut-off valves located directly under the sink for the hot and cold lines. Only shut off the main house supply if those local valves do not work or leak when you try to close them.

Q: What is the purpose of plumber’s putty when I seal sink faucet?
A: Plumber’s putty creates a waterproof seal between the faucet base (or deck plate) and the sink surface. It prevents water that splashes around the faucet base from seeping down into the cabinet below.

Q: My new faucet has a weight on the hose. Where should it go?
A: The weight must be attached to the downward-facing side of the flexible sprayer hose, usually near the center point where the hose moves freely. This weight uses gravity to pull the sprayer head back into the spout when you release it.

Q: Can I reuse my old flexible supply lines when I install kitchen faucet?
A: It is strongly recommended not to reuse old supply lines. New faucets usually come with new lines designed to fit the new unit perfectly. Old lines can degrade, crack, or leak, creating an unnecessary risk after you have completed the main installation.