Simple Steps How To Fix A Dripping Two Handle Kitchen Faucet

Can I fix a dripping two handle kitchen faucet myself? Yes, you absolutely can fix a dripping two handle kitchen faucet yourself with basic tools and a little patience. Often, fixing dripping faucet handles or stopping water leaking from kitchen faucet spout just means replacing small, inexpensive parts inside the faucet. This guide will show you the easy steps for two handle kitchen faucet repair and routine two handle faucet maintenance.

Why Do Kitchen Faucets Drip?

Faucets drip for a few simple reasons. Water drips because the parts inside that stop the flow are worn out or dirty. In older faucets, rubber washers wear out. In newer faucets, the small mechanisms called cartridges wear out. When these parts fail, water sneaks past them. This causes that annoying drip, drip, drip. Fixing dripping faucet handles usually involves replacing these worn parts.

Tools You Will Need for DIY Kitchen Faucet Repair

Gathering your tools first makes the job go faster. You do not need many special tools for this job.

Tool Name	Purpose
Adjustable Wrench	To loosen packing nuts and supply lines.
Screwdrivers (Flathead and Phillips)	To remove handle screws and decorative caps.
Pliers	Helpful for gripping small parts.
Utility Knife or Small Pick	To pry off decorative caps on handles.
White Vinegar	For cleaning mineral deposits.
New Parts (Washers, Seats, or Cartridges)	The parts needed for the specific repair.
Cloths or Rags	To wipe down parts and protect the sink.

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

This is the most important first step. You must turn off the water before taking any part of the faucet apart. If you skip this, you will have a big mess!

Locating the Shut-Off Valves

Look under your kitchen sink. You should see two small valves coming out of the wall or floor. One controls the hot water, and the other controls the cold water.

Turn the handle on the hot water valve clockwise until it stops.
Turn the handle on the cold water valve clockwise until it stops.

Confirming the Water is Off

Go back to the faucet. Turn both handles on fully (hot and cold). Water should stop flowing completely after a few seconds. If a little water still comes out, the shut-off valves might need replacing later, but for now, just let the remaining water drain out.

Pro Tip: Place a towel or a plug in the sink drain. This stops small screws or parts from falling down the pipe forever.

Step 2: Removing the Faucet Handles

The handles are what you turn to control the water. They need to come off to reach the inner workings.

Finding the Screw

Most two handle faucets hide the main screw under a small decorative cap. This cap often says “H” (Hot) or “C” (Cold) or has a small red/blue indicator.

Use a thin, flat tool, like a small flathead screwdriver or a utility knife tip, to gently pry off this decorative cap. Be careful not to scratch the finish of your faucet.
Once the cap is off, you will see a screw underneath. This screw holds the handle onto the stem.
Use the correct screwdriver to remove this screw completely. Set the screw and the cap aside somewhere safe.

Taking the Handle Off

Now, lift the handle straight up. It might be stuck due to mineral buildup.

If it is stuck, gently wiggle it back and forth while pulling up.
Do not force it too hard. If it still won’t move, you might need a special tool called a handle puller, but this is rare for simple repairs. Wiggling usually works.

Step 3: Examining the Stem or Cartridge Assembly

With the handle off, you expose the part that controls the water flow. In older faucets, this is a stem with threads. In newer models, it is often a leaking cartridge replacement unit.

Identifying Your Faucet Type

Two handle faucets usually use one of two main mechanisms inside:

Compression Faucets: These are older styles. They use a washer pressed against a valve seat to stop water. Faucet washer replacement is the typical fix here.
Cartridge Faucets: These are more common now. They use a plastic or brass cartridge that rotates to control flow. If your faucet is relatively new and leaks, you are likely looking at leaking cartridge replacement.

Removing the Cap or Packing Nut

You need to remove the bonnet nut or packing nut that holds the stem or cartridge in place.

Use your adjustable wrench or pliers to turn this nut counter-clockwise. Wrap the jaws of your wrench with tape or cloth first. This protects the shiny metal finish from getting scratched while you turn the nut.
Once the nut is loose, you can carefully pull the entire stem or cartridge straight out of the faucet body.

Step 4: The Repair – Dealing with Compression Faucets (Washers and Seats)

If you have an older compression faucet, you are likely fixing dripping faucet handles by replacing washers.

Replacing the Faucet Washer

At the bottom of the stem, you will find a small screw holding the rubber washer in place.

Use your screwdriver to remove that small screw.
Pull off the old, flattened, or cracked rubber washer.
Take the old washer to a hardware store to match the size exactly. It is best to buy a few spares when you are doing a repair kit for two handle faucet.
Place the new washer onto the stem.
Secure the new washer tightly with the small screw.

Replacing Faucet Seats and Springs

If the washer looks fine, the problem might be deeper. The water hits a part called the faucet seat. Mineral buildup or pitting on the seat can let water leak through, even with a good washer. This often causes a fixing constant dripping kitchen faucet issue.

This part of the two handle kitchen faucet repair requires replacing faucet seats and springs.

Look down into the faucet body where the stem came out. You might see the brass seat directly.
You may need a special tool called a seat wrench to unscrew the old seat.
If your faucet uses springs (common in ceramic disc models disguised as compression), these are usually found right under the stem assembly. The springs help push the seals against the valve body. Remove the old springs and any rubber seals underneath them.
Insert the new springs and seals, followed by the new seat. Screw the new seat in firmly using the seat wrench.

Step 5: The Repair – Dealing with Cartridge Faucets

If you have a cartridge faucet, the solution is usually leaking cartridge replacement.

Removing the Old Cartridge

Once you pull the cartridge out (it might twist slightly to release), look closely at how it came out. Note the orientation—which way is front, and which way is up. They usually have tabs or notches that must line up perfectly when you put the new one in.
Bring the old cartridge to the store. Cartridges are specific to the brand and model of your faucet. You must get the exact match for a successful leaking cartridge replacement.

Installing the New Cartridge

Clean the inside of the faucet body thoroughly. Wipe away any debris or calcium deposits.
Insert the new cartridge, making sure all the alignment tabs line up perfectly with the slots in the faucet body. It should fit snugly.
Reinstall the retaining clip or nut that holds the cartridge down (this is usually the bonnet nut you removed earlier). Make sure it is snug, but do not overtighten, as this can crack the plastic housing of the new cartridge.

Step 6: Reassembly and Testing

Once you have replaced the necessary parts—whether washers, seats, springs, or the whole cartridge—it is time to put everything back together.

Putting the Faucet Back Together

Carefully place the stem or cartridge assembly back into the faucet body.
Screw the packing nut or bonnet nut back on. Tighten it gently with your wrench. This part needs to be tight enough to hold the assembly but loose enough that the handle can still turn easily.
Reattach the handle using the screw you removed earlier.
Snap the decorative cap back onto the handle.

Turning the Water Back On

This must be done slowly to avoid shocking the pipes or forcing water too fast into the newly repaired assembly.

Go back under the sink. Slowly turn the cold water shut-off valve counter-clockwise to open it.
Slowly turn the hot water shut-off valve counter-clockwise to open it.
Wait a moment.
Go back to the sink and turn the faucet handles on and off several times. Check both the hot and cold sides separately.

If you did the job right, the dripping should have stopped completely. If you still have water leaking from kitchen faucet spout, you might need to slightly adjust the tightness of the bonnet nut or revisit Step 4, as a new washer or seat might not have seated perfectly yet.

Dealing with Leaks Around the Handle Base

Sometimes the drip isn’t coming from the spout but rather water leaking from kitchen faucet spout base or around the handle stem when the water is on. This is usually a packing or O-ring issue, not a washer or seat issue.

O-Rings and Packing Material

When you remove the stem or cartridge (Step 3), check for small rubber rings (O-rings) around the stem shaft or fibrous string-like material (packing).

O-Rings: These can crack or flatten over time. If you see damaged O-rings, take them off, match the size, and replace them. This is often covered in a basic repair kit for two handle faucet.
Packing: If your faucet uses packing instead of O-rings, you might need to add new packing string or a new graphite packing washer underneath the packing nut. This material seals the gap where the stem moves. Tightening the packing nut slightly often fixes a minor leak here.

Maintaining Your Faucet for Longevity

Regular two handle faucet maintenance prevents future leaks.

Routine Checks

Check for Stiffness: If handles become hard to turn, it means mineral deposits are building up or lubrication is needed. Do not force them.
Wipe Down Regularly: Keep the faucet body clean. Hard water deposits can scratch the finish and also build up around moving parts.
Annual Check-up: Once a year, if you notice any slight weeping around the handles, turn off the water and gently tighten the packing nuts a tiny bit. This simple act can prevent a major leak later on.

Cleaning Hard Water Deposits

If you suspect mineral buildup is causing issues, use a soft cloth dipped in white vinegar to wipe down the spout opening and the base of the handles. Let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse with clean water. This helps keep everything moving smoothly.

Troubleshooting Persistent Leaks After Repair

What if you followed all the steps and water is still fixing constant dripping kitchen faucet?

Issue 1: The New Part is Wrong

The most common issue is using the wrong size washer, seat, or cartridge. Plumbing parts vary widely even between the same brand name. If the part doesn’t fit perfectly, water will still leak. You must confirm the exact model number of your faucet if possible, or take the old part directly to a specialized plumbing supply store rather than a general hardware store for the best match.

Issue 2: Corrosion in the Faucet Body

If the inside of the faucet body, where the seat screws in, is corroded, pitted, or scratched, even a brand-new seat and washer won’t seal properly.

If you have a compression faucet, you may need a faucet seat dresser tool to lightly grind down the rough edges inside the valve body, creating a smooth surface for the new seat.
If the damage is severe, the entire faucet unit may need to be replaced.

Issue 3: Overtightening or Undertightening

It’s a balancing act. If the bonnet nut holding the stem is too tight, the handle will be hard to turn, and the internal seals might be constantly compressed, leading to premature failure or leaks around the stem. If it’s too loose, water bypasses the seals, causing a drip. Aim for “snug, but still easily operable by hand.”

When to Call a Professional Plumber

While most two handle faucet repairs are perfect for a dedicated DIYer, there are times when professional help is wise:

Shut-off Valves Don’t Work: If you cannot turn off the water under the sink, a plumber needs to shut off the main house water line and fix those valves first.
Corroded or Stuck Parts: If parts are so old they are essentially fused together with corrosion, forcing them risks cracking the entire faucet body or damaging the pipes leading to it.
Supply Line Leaks: If you notice leaks coming from the flexible hoses connecting the shut-off valves to the faucet, this requires specialized wrench work to replace the supply lines safely.

For a simple faucet washer replacement or leaking cartridge replacement, these steps should guide you to success in your DIY kitchen faucet repair. Remember, patience and accurate part matching are the keys to stopping that annoying leak.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How often should I perform two handle faucet maintenance?

You should perform basic maintenance, like checking handle stiffness and wiping down surfaces, every few months. If you notice a persistent drip, address the internal components immediately.

My faucet is old, should I try leaking cartridge replacement or faucet washer replacement?

If your faucet is more than 15 years old and uses rubber washers that you compress to stop water, start with faucet washer replacement and replacing faucet seats and springs. If it’s a more modern faucet (post-1990s) that uses a rotating mechanism, look for a repair kit for two handle faucet that includes a new cartridge.

What causes water leaking from kitchen faucet spout when the faucet is completely off?

This almost always means the sealing mechanism inside has failed. This is either a damaged washer in a compression faucet or a faulty seal within the cartridge in a cartridge faucet.

Can I use the same repair kit for two handle faucet for both hot and cold sides?

Often, yes. If your faucet uses standard compression stems or identical cartridges, the same set of parts will work for both sides. However, the hot and cold handles might control the flow differently (e.g., hot side turns clockwise to stop, cold side turns counter-clockwise to stop), so it is wise to inspect both sides before buying parts.

I replaced the washer, but I am still fixing dripping faucet handles—what now?

If the washer is new, the next logical step is replacing faucet seats and springs. The water is likely leaking past the seat itself because the seat surface is damaged or pitted.

How do I tighten the bonnet nut without stripping the threads?

Use the correct size wrench and wrap the nut surface with electrical tape or a thin cloth before gripping it with the wrench. Turn slowly and only tighten until you feel firm resistance. Overtightening causes problems, especially with plastic cartridges.