Easy Steps: How To Fix Kitchen Faucet Leak

Yes, you can fix a kitchen faucet leak yourself! Most leaks happen because a small part, like a washer or a seal, wears out. Fixing a dripping faucet is a common DIY faucet repair project that most homeowners can handle with the right steps and basic tools. This guide will show you how to stop leaky sink tap issues safely and effectively.

Initial Steps: Preparing for Faucet Repair

Before you start fixing things, you must prepare your workspace. Taking these simple steps first prevents messes and water damage. This preparation is key to any successful DIY faucet repair.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

This is the most important first step. You must turn off the water before taking apart any part of the faucet.

Locate Shut-Off Valves: Look under the sink. You should see two small handles or knobs, one for hot water and one for cold water.
Turn Them Off: Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. They should feel tight.
Check the Water: Turn the faucet handles on fully (both hot and cold). If water still flows out, it means the main shut-off valves under the sink are not fully closed, or you need to turn off the main water supply to your house.
Drain Remaining Water: Let the water drain from the spout until it stops dripping completely. This relieves pressure in the lines.

Gathering Your Tools for Faucet Repair

Having the right tools for faucet repair makes the job much faster. You might not need all of these, depending on your faucet type, but it is good to have them ready.

Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
Pliers (needle-nose and standard)
Hex keys (Allen wrenches)
Utility knife or putty knife (for scraping old sealant)
White vinegar and an old toothbrush (for cleaning mineral deposits)
Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
Towel or rag to catch water
Safety glasses

Protecting Your Sink

Always put a towel or rag inside the sink basin. This protects the sink finish if you drop a small screw or tool. It also helps catch any water that escapes during the process.

Identifying Faucet Leak Source

Leaks usually come from one of two places: the spout (a drip) or around the base/handle (a steady stream or weep). Identifying faucet leak source correctly saves you time buying the wrong parts.

Dripping from the Spout

A constant drip usually means a seal inside the faucet is failing. The part that fails depends on what kind of faucet you have.

Compression Faucets: Drips happen because the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem wears out.
Cartridge, Ball, or Ceramic Disc Faucets: The main internal mechanism, often called the cartridge, has failed, or its seals are damaged.

Leaking Around the Handle or Base

Water seeping out around the handle or where the faucet body meets the counter often points to worn O-rings or gaskets near the valve stem.

Fixing Different Types of Kitchen Faucets

Kitchen faucets mostly fall into four categories. The repair steps change significantly based on the type you have.

1. Repairing Compression Faucets (Two Handles)

Compression faucets are older models. They use a stem that pushes down on a rubber washer to stop the water flow. If you need to repair dripping faucet on this type, you likely need a new washer. This is often the easiest fix.

Disassembly Process:

Remove the Handle: Pry off the decorative cap (often marked ‘H’ or ‘C’) using a small flathead screwdriver or utility knife.
Unscrew the Handle Screw: Use a screwdriver to remove the screw holding the handle onto the valve stem. Take the handle off.
Remove the Packing Nut: You will see a hexagonal nut holding the valve stem in place. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen and remove this packing nut.
Pull Out the Stem: Twist or pull the entire valve stem assembly out of the faucet body.

Replacing the Washer: Replace Kitchen Faucet Washer

Inspect the Washer: At the bottom of the stem, you will see a small rubber washer held by a brass screw.
Remove the Old Washer: Remove the screw and the old washer.
Install the New Washer: Put a new, correctly sized washer in place. Many people also replace the O-ring located higher up on the stem to stop leaky sink tap issues coming from the handle area.
Check the Seat: Look down into the faucet body where the stem sits. This is the valve seat. If it is rough or pitted, the new washer might fail quickly. You might need a specialized tool called a seat grinder to smooth it out, or you may need to replace the faucet seat.

Reassembly:

Reverse the steps. Put the stem back in, tighten the packing nut (don’t overtighten!), reattach the handle, and turn the water back on slowly to check for leaks. This process is the essence of compression faucet repair.

2. Cartridge Replacement Kitchen Faucet (Single or Double Handle)

Cartridge faucets use a movable stem (the cartridge) that rotates to control water flow and temperature. They don’t have washers that wear out easily. If this faucet leaks, you usually need to replace the entire cartridge.

Disassembly:

Access the Handle Screw: The screw is often hidden under a decorative cap or accessible from the side or back of the handle base (sometimes requiring an Allen wrench). Remove the screw and lift the handle off.
Remove the Retaining Clip/Nut: Most cartridges are held in place by a brass retaining nut or a small U-shaped metal clip. If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers to gently pull it straight up. If it’s a nut, unscrew it.
Pull Out the Cartridge: Grasp the exposed top of the cartridge. Sometimes you can pull it straight up. Other times, you might need a specialized cartridge puller tool, especially if it’s stuck due to mineral buildup.

Installation:

Clean the Housing: Wipe out the faucet body where the cartridge sits. Look for mineral buildup.
Insert New Cartridge: Make sure the new cartridge lines up correctly. Most have specific tabs or notches that must align with slots in the faucet body to control the hot/cold positions correctly.
Secure the Cartridge: Reinsert the retaining clip or tighten the retaining nut.
Test: Reattach the handle and test the water flow. This is the core of single handle faucet repair for modern units.

3. Ball-Type Faucets (Single Handle, Older Style)

Ball faucets use a slotted metal or plastic ball to control water mixing. They have many small parts, making them slightly more complex than cartridge types.

The Problem Areas:

Leaks usually happen because the springs and rubber seats beneath the ball wear out, or the inlet seals fail.

Repair Steps:

Remove Handle: Take off the handle screw and handle.
Remove Cap and Collar: Unscrew the faucet cap and collar.
Remove the Ball: Lift out the cam assembly and the rotating ball.
Replace Seats and Springs: Use needle-nose pliers to remove the small rubber seats and springs located deep inside the faucet body. Install the new ones, ensuring the narrow end of the spring points down.
Replace O-Rings (if leaking at the base): If water leaks around the spout base, remove the spout and replace the O-rings located there.

4. Ceramic Disc Faucets

These are very durable and rarely drip. If they do leak, it’s almost always due to a cracked disc or a failing seal in the housing below the disc assembly. The fix involves replacing the entire sealed disc cartridge assembly, much like the step above, but these cartridges are usually sealed units that cannot be taken apart further.

Dealing with Leaks at the Faucet Base or Swivel

If water pools around the bottom of the faucet where the spout meets the body, the problem isn’t the internal valve mechanism. The problem lies with the O-rings sealing the spout itself. This is a common cause when fixing a running faucet where the drip seems elusive.

Steps to Replace Spout O-Rings:

Isolate the Spout: On most faucets, after removing the handle and sometimes a retainer nut, you can gently twist and lift the entire spout straight up and off the faucet body. Keep track of any small gaskets or washers found beneath it.
Locate the O-Rings: You will see one or two rubber rings seated in grooves on the bottom part of the faucet body (the stationary part).
Remove Old Rings: Carefully slice the old O-rings with a utility knife, being careful not to scratch the metal surface beneath. Pull them out.
Install New Rings: Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease (silicone-based) onto the new O-rings. This helps them slide on easily and keeps the rubber supple longer. Slide the new rings into their grooves.
Reattach Spout: Carefully place the spout back over the body, ensuring the O-rings do not get pinched or rolled. The spout should swivel smoothly.

Advanced Troubleshooting: When Parts Aren’t the Problem

Sometimes, even after you replace kitchen faucet washer or cartridge, the drip persists. This means the issue is likely the metal surface itself.

The Valve Seat Problem (Crucial for Compression Faucets)

If you have a compression faucet, the valve seat is the small metal ring inside the faucet body that the washer presses against. Over years of use, water pressure can pit, scratch, or erode this metal surface.

When the seat is rough, the soft rubber washer cannot form a perfect seal, leading to a slow, persistent drip.

Resurfacing the Seat:

You need a valve seat dresser or seat grinding tool.

Ensure the water is off and the stem is removed.
Insert the dresser tool into the opening.
Gently turn the tool handle clockwise. The grinding stones or cutters on the tool will hone the metal surface, making it smooth and flat again.
Clean out any metal shavings carefully with a damp rag before reassembling.

If the seat is severely damaged or cannot be ground down further, you might need to replace the entire faucet, as the seat is often part of the main faucet body casting.

Dealing with Hard Water Buildup

Mineral deposits (scale) from hard water can coat internal components, mimicking the failure of a washer or seal.

Cleaning Components: Soak any removed metal parts (stems, retaining nuts, etc.) in white vinegar for several hours. Use an old toothbrush to scrub away white or green deposits. This improves the fit of new parts.
Aerator Cleaning: If the faucet is running oddly or spurting, the problem might be the aerator at the tip of the spout. Unscrew it, soak it in vinegar, and clean the small screens.

Single Handle Faucet Repair Specifics: Temperature Issues

If your single handle faucet repair involves fixing temperature control rather than just a drip, the problem is almost always the cartridge itself, or how it’s oriented.

If the water runs too hot or too cold, or if the handle moves stiffly:

Check Alignment: When installing a new cartridge, make absolutely sure the alignment tabs match the slots in the faucet body. If they are off by one notch, the hot and cold sides will be reversed or partially blocked.
Lubrication: If the handle is stiff, apply plumber’s silicone grease lightly to the exterior parts of the cartridge that move inside the housing before reinserting it. Do not use petroleum jelly, as it can degrade rubber parts.

A Quick Comparison of Faucet Repair Needs

This table helps summarize where to look based on the type of faucet you have.

Faucet Type	Common Leak Source	Usual Fix	Difficulty Level
Compression (Two Handle)	Worn rubber washer	Replace kitchen faucet washer	Easy/Medium
Cartridge (Single/Double Handle)	Worn cartridge seals	Cartridge replacement kitchen faucet	Medium
Ball Type	Worn springs and seats	Replace inlet seals and springs	Medium/Hard
Ceramic Disc	Cracked disc or seal failure	Replace entire disc cartridge	Medium

Final Steps and Testing

Once all parts are back in place and secured, it is time to test your work.

Ensure Faucet Handles are Closed: Make sure all faucet handles are in the OFF position.
Turn Water On Slowly: Go back under the sink and turn the hot and cold shut-off valves counter-clockwise very slowly. Listen for any rushing water that sounds abnormal.
Check for Immediate Leaks: Watch the handles and the base of the faucet body while the pressure returns to the lines. If you see water weeping out, shut the water off immediately—something is loose.
Test Flow and Temperature: Turn the faucet on fully. Check the hot and cold sides. If the drip is gone, congratulations! You have completed your DIY faucet repair. Let the water run for a minute to flush out any debris.

If you followed all steps and the faucet is still dripping, go back and re-examine the seals, springs, or the condition of the valve seat if applicable. Sometimes a second inspection reveals a slightly misaligned component or a loose packing nut. If you are fixing a running faucet and the drip returns quickly, it is almost always a valve seat issue in compression models.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Leaks

Q: Can I fix a leaky sink tap without shutting off the main house water supply?
A: Yes, usually you can. Nearly all modern sinks have dedicated shut-off valves directly under the sink basin for the hot and cold lines feeding the faucet. Use those first. Only turn off the main house supply if those local valves don’t work or don’t completely stop the flow.

Q: How do I know if I need a new cartridge or just new O-rings for my single handle faucet repair?
A: If the leak is coming out of the spout (dripping), it is usually the internal seals or the cartridge itself failing to close completely. If the water is weeping out from under the handle or base when the water is running, you likely only need new O-rings or seals around the stem/spout connection.

Q: What are the best tools for faucet repair if I have hard-to-reach nuts under the sink?
A: A basin wrench is invaluable for reaching nuts holding the faucet base to the countertop or sink deck. For internal stem nuts, an adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers work well, but be careful not to slip and scratch the finish.

Q: Is it cheaper to repair or replace the entire kitchen faucet?
A: Generally, replacing a washer or cartridge is very inexpensive ($5 to $30). If you need specialized tools or the faucet is very old and corroded, replacing the whole unit (especially a cheap one) might be worth the time saved. However, for most modern faucets, DIY faucet repair saves significant money over hiring a plumber.

Q: Why is my faucet making a squeaking noise when I turn it?
A: A squeaking or grinding noise is often caused by friction between the metal stem/cartridge and the faucet body, usually due to a lack of lubricant or mineral deposits. Applying plumber’s silicone grease during the repair (especially when performing compression faucet repair or cartridge replacement kitchen faucet) will usually eliminate this noise.