Can I resurface my kitchen cabinets myself? Yes, you absolutely can resurface kitchen cabinets as a do-it-yourself project. This guide will show you how to achieve a professional look without hiring expensive contractors. Many people choose DIY cabinet resurfacing to save money and give their kitchen a fresh look.
Deciphering Cabinet Resurfacing: What It Means
Cabinet resurfacing is not the same as refinishing kitchen cabinets. Refinishing usually means just changing the top coat or stain. Resurfacing means giving the cabinets a brand-new surface look. You can paint them, or sometimes add thin veneer over the old surface. For most homeowners, painting is the main method of resurfacing. This process gives you results similar to brand-new cabinets but at a lower price point.
Weighing the Options: Resurface vs. Replace
Before starting, think about what works best for your home and budget. Replacing cabinets costs a lot. Cabinet resurfacing cost is much lower. You only pay for supplies, not new cabinet boxes.
| Option | Initial Cost Estimate (Medium Kitchen) | Time Commitment | Durability |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full Replacement | High | Long Project | Very High |
| Refinishing kitchen cabinets (Light Update) | Low to Medium | Medium | Good |
| Full Resurfacing (Painting) | Medium | Long Weekend/Week | Very Good (with proper prep) |
Phase 1: Planning Your Project
Good planning saves time and stops frustration later. Think about the style you want. Do you want a bright white, a soft gray, or a bold color?
Selecting the Right Paint
The success of your project hinges on the paint you choose. You need paint that sticks well and handles daily wear and tear. It must resist grease and cleaning.
What is the best paint for kitchen cabinets?
For most jobs, an oil-based enamel or a high-quality water-based acrylic enamel designed for cabinets works best. These dry very hard. Look for “cabinet paint” on the label. They offer excellent durability.
- Alkyd (Oil-Based) Paints: Very durable and smooth finish. Harder to clean up (requires mineral spirits). Takes longer to dry.
- Water-Based Alkyd Hybrids: Great balance. Easy cleanup with water but cures nearly as hard as oil paint. Highly recommended for DIY cabinet resurfacing.
Gathering Your Supplies
You will need a good collection of tools. Do not skimp on cleaning supplies. A clean surface is key.
Essential Tools and Materials:
- Screwdrivers and power drill (for removing hardware)
- Degreaser or TSP substitute
- Sandpaper (120, 180, and 220 grit)
- Tack cloths
- Painter’s tape and plastic sheeting
- Primer (bonding primer is best)
- Cabinet paint
- Quality brushes (angled sash brush) and foam rollers
Some people ask about cabinet resurfacing kits. These kits often include paint, primer, and sometimes specialized rollers. They can be a good starting point for beginners, but always check the quality of the paint included.
Phase 2: Preparing Cabinets for Paint
This is the most crucial step. If you skip proper cleaning and prep, your paint will peel. Preparing cabinets for paint takes the longest, but it’s worth the effort.
Removing Doors and Hardware
Start by taking everything off the cabinets.
- Empty all cabinets.
- Remove all doors and drawer fronts.
- Keep all screws and small hardware organized. Put them in labeled bags. A magnetic tray is useful here.
- Number the back of each door lightly with a pencil where it goes. This helps when reassembling.
Cleaning the Surface
Grease and grime prevent paint from sticking. You must remove all kitchen grease completely.
- Use a strong degreaser. A TSP substitute works well.
- Wipe down all cabinet boxes, doors, and drawer fronts thoroughly. Use warm water and the cleaner.
- Rinse the surfaces with clean water afterward. Let them dry fully. A fan speeds this up.
The Sanding Question
Do I need to sand? Yes, for the best result, light sanding is necessary. It creates a “tooth” for the primer to grip.
Can I try painting kitchen cabinets without sanding? You can try using very strong chemical deglossers or specialized bonding primers without heavy sanding. However, if your cabinets have a very glossy factory finish, you risk peeling. Light sanding ensures a secure bond.
Use 180-grit sandpaper first. Sand just enough to dull the shine. Do not sand down to bare wood unless you plan to strip the entire cabinet first. If you are stripping kitchen cabinets completely to bare wood, you will need heavier sanding (like 100 or 120 grit) after the stripper has done its main work.
After sanding, clean off all dust using a vacuum with a brush attachment first. Then, wipe everything down with a tack cloth.
Phase 3: Priming for Maximum Adhesion
Primer seals the old surface and makes the topcoat look better. Never skip the primer when refinishing kitchen cabinets.
Applying the Primer
Choose a high-quality bonding primer. This type sticks well to slick surfaces like laminate or factory finishes.
- Apply a thin, even coat. Do not glob it on.
- Use a high-density foam roller for flat surfaces. Use a good quality angled brush for edges and corners.
- Let the primer dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Light Sanding After Priming
Once the primer is dry, you need to smooth it out. This is called sanding between coats.
- Use fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit).
- Gently rub the primed surfaces. You are just smoothing out brush strokes or roller marks. You are not removing the primer.
- Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth again. Two coats of primer may be needed for very dark cabinets to ensure the final color is true.
Phase 4: Applying the Topcoat
This is where the transformation happens! Apply paint in thin layers. Thick coats run, sag, and take forever to dry.
Painting Techniques
Whether you use a brush, roller, or spray equipment, thin coats are the secret to professional-looking results.
- Brushing and Rolling: Work on one door or section at a time. Paint the recessed areas first with a brush. Then, roll the flat panels using light, overlapping passes. Keep a “wet edge” so lines blend together.
- Spraying: Spraying gives the smoothest finish, often mimicking factory cabinets. If you want that perfect finish, consider a cabinet resurfacing spray system (like an HVLP sprayer). Spraying requires much more prep work (masking everything in the kitchen) because overspray goes everywhere.
Drying Time and Multiple Coats
Follow the recoat time on the can. Do not rush this. If the paint is still slightly tacky, the next coat will pull it up.
Most projects need two, maybe three, topcoats for full, rich color and durability.
- Apply Coat 1. Let it dry fully. Lightly sand (220 grit) and wipe dust away.
- Apply Coat 2. Let it dry fully. Lightly sand (220 grit) and wipe dust away.
- Apply Final Coat (if necessary).
Check out your cabinet resurfacing before and after photos after the first coat! The change is usually amazing even at this stage.
Phase 5: Reassembly and Curing
Once the final coat is applied, you must wait. This is the hardest part of DIY cabinet resurfacing—waiting patiently.
Curing Time
Paint feels dry to the touch quickly, but it takes time to cure (harden completely).
- Wait at least 24-48 hours before handling doors carefully.
- Wait 3 to 7 days before putting heavy items back inside or washing them hard. Curing time depends heavily on the type of paint used. Oil-based paints can take several weeks to reach maximum hardness.
Reattaching Hardware
Once the paint is firm enough, reattach the handles and knobs. Then, carefully rehang the doors and drawers. Adjust hinges so the doors line up perfectly. This fine-tuning makes the final look polished.
Advanced Topics in Cabinet Resurfacing
Dealing with Cabinet Resurfacing Spray Systems
For the smoothest possible finish, spraying is the way to go. If you are planning to spray, you must invest time in masking.
- Use plastic sheeting and high-quality painter’s tape. Cover every appliance, countertop edge, and floor area near the cabinets.
- Use a ventilation system or work in an open garage (if humidity is low). Overspray cleanup is difficult.
- Practice on scrap wood first to set the correct fan speed and material flow on your HVLP sprayer.
What If I Have Laminate Cabinets?
Laminate cabinets are slick plastic bonded to wood or particleboard. They are notoriously hard to paint.
Preparing cabinets for paint on laminate is extra important. You must use a specialized bonding primer made for plastics or slick surfaces. Do not try to skip the primer here, or the paint will flake off in sheets.
Considering Cabinet Refacing Instead of Full Resurfacing
Refinishing kitchen cabinets often means light sanding and applying new stain or clear coat. If your cabinet doors are solid wood but you hate the style, you might consider refacing. Refacing means attaching new, pre-made door fronts and drawer fronts over your existing boxes. This is a middle ground between full replacement and painting. It is often easier than painting if you are not skilled with paint application.
Cost Comparison and Value
How much can you expect to spend on DIY cabinet resurfacing?
For a standard kitchen (about 25 doors/drawers), costs typically break down like this:
- Paint, Primer, Sealant: \$150 – \$300
- Sandpaper, Tape, Cleaners: \$50 – \$100
- New Hardware (Optional but Recommended): \$75 – \$250+
- Total Estimate: \$275 – \$650
Compare this to hiring a professional painter, where the cabinet resurfacing cost might start at \$2,500 and go much higher. If you replace the cabinets, expect costs to start around \$5,000 to \$10,000 or more. DIY saves significant money.
Maintaining Your Newly Resurfaced Cabinets
To keep your new look fresh, treat them gently at first.
- Avoid harsh scrubbing for the first month.
- Wipe spills right away.
- Use gentle, non-abrasive cleaners. A mild dish soap and water mix is usually best. Avoid heavy chemicals.
The durability of your finish depends on the quality of the paint and how well you did the prep work. A well-prepped and painted cabinet job can last 10 years or more.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to resurface kitchen cabinets?
For a dedicated DIYer, the process usually takes 3 to 5 full days, factoring in drying times between coats. If you can only work evenings, it might stretch to two full weekends.
What grit sandpaper should I use for the final topcoat?
For the final sanding before the last topcoat, use 220 or 320 grit sandpaper. You want it very fine just to knock down any dust nibs or minor imperfections left by the previous coat.
Can I paint over existing varnish without stripping?
Yes, you can, provided you thoroughly clean the surface with a degreaser and scuff-sand it well to provide “tooth.” Then, you must use a high-adhesion bonding primer designed specifically for slick surfaces. This is the core method used in most DIY cabinet resurfacing projects.
Is it better to brush, roll, or spray cabinets?
Spraying gives the smoothest, most professional finish, but requires the most prep. Rolling and brushing work fine if you use high-quality foam rollers and angled brushes, and if you apply very thin coats to avoid brush strokes.
How long should I wait before putting dishes back in the cabinets?
Wait at least 3 days before general use. For maximum durability, wait a full week before subjecting the surfaces to heavy cleaning or impact. This allows the finish to fully cure.