Yes, you can fix a kitchen faucet yourself! Most common faucet problems, like leaks or drips, come from simple worn-out parts. This kitchen faucet repair guide will show you how to tackle most issues without calling a plumber. We will cover how to stop that annoying drip, handle leaks, and even perform a full installing new kitchen faucet job if needed.
Getting Ready for Faucet Fixes
Before you start any repair, safety comes first. Working on plumbing means dealing with water, and you don’t want a flood. Proper preparation makes the job much faster and cleaner.
Essential Tools for Faucet Repair
You need the right tools handy. Having these items ready makes leaky faucet repair much easier.
- Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
- Pliers (channel locks work best)
- Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
- Utility knife
- Safety glasses
- Rags or old towels
- White vinegar (for cleaning)
- Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)
Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply
This is the most important step. You must stop the water flow to the faucet completely.
- Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two shut-off valves—one for hot water and one for cold water.
- Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. This shuts the water off.
- Turn the faucet handles on. Run both the hot and cold water into the sink. This relieves any pressure left in the lines. Let the water stop dripping completely.
- If you cannot find shut-off valves under the sink, you must turn off the main water supply to your whole house.
Step 2: Protect Your Sink
When fixing things, small screws and parts often fall. You do not want them going down the drain.
- Place a stopper in the sink drain. If you don’t have one, grab a rag and stuff it lightly into the opening.
- Put a towel down inside the cabinet under the sink. This catches any drips or spilled water.
Troubleshooting Common Faucet Issues
The fix depends on what is going wrong. Is it a drip, a steady leak, or is the handle stiff? Dripping faucet troubleshooting starts with knowing your faucet type.
Faucet Types and What They Use
Faucets generally fall into four main categories, and the parts inside are different:
| Faucet Type | Common Repair Part | How It Works |
|---|---|---|
| Compression | Washers and O-rings | Uses rubber washers tightened down to stop water flow. |
| Cartridge | Cartridge unit | Uses a hollow cylinder that moves up and down or side to side. |
| Ball | Ball assembly, springs, seals | Common in older single-handle models; uses a rotating metal or plastic ball. |
| Ceramic Disc | Disc cartridge | Uses two ceramic discs that slide against each other to control flow. Very durable. |
Most modern kitchen faucets use cartridge or ceramic disc styles. Older homes might have compression faucets.
Repairing a Single-Handle Faucet
Repairing a single-handle faucet usually means replacing the cartridge or seals inside.
Removing the Handle
- Locate the Screw: Look for a small cap, usually red/blue or just a decorative plastic cover, on the top or front of the handle. Pop this off carefully with a thin flathead screwdriver or a utility knife.
- Unscrew the Handle: The handle is usually held on by a setscrew hidden under the cap. Use an Allen wrench or screwdriver to loosen and remove this screw.
- Remove the Handle: Pull the handle straight up and off the faucet body. If it sticks, wiggle it gently. Do not force it hard.
Accessing the Cartridge
Once the handle is off, you will see a dome-shaped cap or a large nut holding the internal parts in place.
- Remove the Cap/Nut: Use pliers or a wrench to carefully unscrew the dome cap or retaining nut (sometimes called the bonnet nut). Turn counter-clockwise. Be gentle to avoid scratching the faucet finish.
- Examine the Cartridge: You will now see the cartridge unit. Note its orientation. Cartridges are keyed, meaning they only fit one way. Take a picture with your phone so you remember how it sits.
Faucet Cartridge Replacement
If you have a constant drip, the faucet cartridge replacement is often the fix.
- Pull Out the Old Cartridge: Some cartridges have a small clip holding them in. Pull this clip out with needle-nose pliers. Then, gently pull the old cartridge straight up. You might need a special cartridge puller tool if it is stuck hard.
- Inspect the Valve Body: Look inside the faucet body where the cartridge sat. Clean out any mineral deposits or debris using an old toothbrush and a little vinegar.
- Insert the New Cartridge: Make sure the new cartridge lines up exactly as the old one did. Push it firmly down into place. Reinstall any retaining clip.
This process is key for repairing a single-handle faucet that is dripping or leaking from the spout.
Fixing a Two-Handle Faucet
Fixing a two-handle faucet often involves replacing faucet washers or dealing with seals inside each handle stem. Hot and cold sides are usually repaired the same way, one at a time.
Disassembling the Handle Stem
- Remove the Handle: Similar to the single-handle type, remove the decorative cap. Unscrew the handle screw and lift the handle off.
- Remove the Packing Nut: Underneath the handle, you will see a large brass or chrome nut called the packing nut. Use an adjustable wrench to turn this counter-clockwise and remove it.
- Pull Out the Stem Assembly: The stem assembly (which holds the washer) should now lift out. You might have to turn it a bit to unscrew it from the faucet body threads.
Replacing Worn Components
This is where the replacing faucet washers step comes in.
- Inspect the Washer: Look at the bottom tip of the stem. There will be a small screw holding a rubber washer in place. This washer is usually the culprit in compression faucets causing drips.
- Replace the Washer: Remove the screw, take off the old, flattened, or cracked washer. Replace it with an identical new washer. Put the screw back in tightly.
- Check O-Rings: Also inspect the O-rings around the stem body. These prevent leaks around the handle base. If they look flat or cracked, replace them too. Lubricate new O-rings lightly with plumber’s grease before reassembly.
Reassemble everything by reversing the steps. Tighten the packing nut firmly, but do not over-tighten, as this can make the handle hard to turn.
Addressing Leaks Around the Base and Spout
If water is leaking near the base where the spout swivels, or just dripping from the end, the approach changes slightly.
Stopping Leaks Under the Handle
If water seeps out from around the base of the handle stem when you turn the water on, you need to address the packing nut area.
- Tightening the Packing Nut: Sometimes, simply tightening faucet base components slightly fixes this. If the packing nut is loose, tighten it a quarter turn. If the leak continues, you need to replace the packing material or O-rings inside, as detailed in the two-handle repair section.
Fixing a Swivel Spout Leak
If you have a spout that rotates, it uses O-rings near the bottom of the spout base.
- Remove the Spout: First, remove the handle and stem assemblies so nothing blocks you. Often, there is a retaining nut or set screw holding the spout down at the back or side of the faucet body. Remove this.
- Lift the Spout: Carefully lift the entire spout straight up and off the faucet body.
- Replace Spout O-Rings: You will see one or more rubber O-rings seated in grooves on the faucet body where the spout sits. Carefully cut or pry off the old rings.
- Lubricate and Reinstall: Coat the new O-rings lightly with plumber’s silicone grease. Slide them onto the body in the correct grooves. Reinstall the spout, making sure it sits flush, and secure the retaining nut.
Enhancing Water Flow: Cleaning the Aerator
If your water flow is weak, sputtery, or spraying everywhere, the problem is usually not inside the faucet body but at the very tip—the aerator. Cleaning aerator components improves pressure and spray quality.
- Remove the Aerator: The aerator is the screen tip at the very end of the spout. Most modern aerators twist off counter-clockwise by hand. If it’s stuck, wrap a cloth around it for grip and use pliers gently.
- Disassemble: The aerator usually unscrews into several small pieces: the screen, a flow restrictor, and sometimes a plastic washer. Keep them in order.
- Soak and Scrub: Mineral deposits (limescale) clog the tiny holes. Soak all the pieces in a small bowl of white vinegar for at least 30 minutes. After soaking, scrub the screens gently with an old toothbrush. Rinse well with clean water.
- Reassemble: Put the pieces back together exactly as you took them apart. Screw the clean aerator back onto the spout securely. This simple step often solves low-pressure issues.
When All Else Fails: Installing New Kitchen Faucet
Sometimes, age, severe corrosion, or irreparable damage means a simple fix won’t work. If your faucet is decades old or constantly needs repair, it might be time for installing new kitchen faucet.
Removing the Old Faucet
This part is often harder than putting the new one in!
- Disconnect Water Lines: Go back under the sink. Use your wrench to disconnect the flexible supply lines from the shut-off valves. Have a bucket ready, as some residual water will spill out.
- Locate Mounting Nuts: Look up at the underside of the sink where the faucet shank passes through. There will be large mounting nuts, sometimes held by long bolts, securing the faucet to the sink deck.
- Loosen Mounting Hardware: This is where the basin wrench shines. Use it to grip and turn the mounting nuts counter-clockwise until they are loose.
- Lift Out: Once all nuts and lines are disconnected, you can lift the old faucet straight up and out from above the sink. Clean the sink deck surface thoroughly.
Setting the New Faucet
Always follow the specific instructions provided with your new faucet, as designs vary widely.
- Install Gasket/Deck Plate: Place the new rubber gasket or deck plate onto the base of the new faucet.
- Feed Lines Through: Feed the supply lines and the faucet shank down through the hole(s) in the sink deck.
- Secure Underneath: From underneath the sink, slide the washers and mounting nuts onto the shank. Hand-tighten them first.
- Final Tightening: Use your basin wrench or appropriate tool to tighten the mounting nuts firmly. The faucet should not wiggle when you push on it. Check that the spout faces forward correctly before making the final tightening turns.
- Connect Supply Lines: Connect the hot and cold supply lines from the faucet tailpieces to the matching shut-off valves. Hand-tighten, then use a wrench for another quarter turn. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the compression fittings.
Testing the New Installation
- Turn Water On Slowly: Go back under the sink and slowly turn the hot and cold water shut-off valves counter-clockwise to restore water flow. Watch for immediate leaks under the sink.
- Test Faucet: Turn the new faucet on fully (both hot and cold). Let the water run for several minutes. This flushes air and debris out of the new lines.
- Final Check: While the water runs, check all connections under the sink one last time for any signs of dripping or seepage.
Maintaining Faucets for Longevity
Preventative care saves a lot of time on leaky faucet repair later.
- Water Hardness: If you have hard water, mineral buildup is your enemy. Run vinegar through your faucet lines periodically (by taking the aerator off and letting vinegar sit in the spout tip for an hour).
- Handle Care: Never use excessive force when turning handles, especially on compression or cartridge styles. Force strains internal seals.
- Annual Checkup: Once a year, check the simple things: ensure the supply line connections are snug and the faucet base is tight. This proactive approach avoids unexpected drips.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How do I know if I need a faucet cartridge replacement or just new washers?
A: Washers are almost exclusively found in older compression faucets. If you have a single-handle faucet or a modern two-handle faucet, it uses a cartridge or ceramic disc assembly. If it drips, replace the cartridge. If the leak is around the base of the handle, it’s likely a seal or O-ring near the stem.
Q: Can I fix a dripping faucet without turning off the main water supply?
A: You can usually fix the drip if you can locate and close the dedicated shut-off valves under the sink for that faucet. If you cannot find or operate those valves, you must turn off the main house supply. Never try to dismantle the faucet parts without shutting the water off first.
Q: My new faucet drips immediately after installing it. What went wrong?
A: This usually means the component wasn’t seated correctly. For a cartridge faucet, ensure the cartridge is fully seated and the retaining clip is engaged. For fixing a two-handle faucet, it might mean the new washer or O-ring is defective or improperly installed. Also, double-check that the supply lines are connected to the right hot/cold valves.
Q: What is the best way to clean hard water deposits from internal faucet parts?
A: White distilled vinegar is the best and safest household cleaner for this. Soak any removable parts (like aerator screens or removed cartridges) in vinegar for 30 minutes to several hours, depending on the severity of the buildup. Rinse thoroughly before reassembly.
Q: How often should I clean the aerator?
A: This depends on your local water quality. In areas with very hard water, you might need to clean the aerator monthly. In soft water areas, cleaning it every six months might be plenty.