Yes, you can fix a leaky kitchen faucet yourself. Most common drips come from worn-out internal parts like washers, O-rings, or cartridges, which are usually simple to replace with basic tools.
A steady drip from your kitchen faucet is more than just annoying; it wastes a lot of water and raises your water bill. Many homeowners think this job needs a plumber, but fixing a dripping faucet is often a straightforward DIY leaky faucet fix. This guide will walk you through the steps for different faucet types. We will focus on simple, clear actions so you can get your sink working right again.
Preparation: Before You Start Fixing a Running Kitchen Tap
Before taking anything apart, you must prepare. Skipping these steps can lead to a big mess or even damage your plumbing. Taking a few moments now saves headaches later.
Safety First: Shutting Off the Water Supply
You must stop the water flow to the faucet. If you skip this, water will spray everywhere when you open the handles.
- Locate the Shut-Off Valves: Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves, one for hot water and one for cold water.
- Turn Them Off: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Do not overtighten them.
- Check the Flow: Turn on the leaky faucet fully. A small amount of water might drain out, but the main flow should stop completely. If water still flows strongly, you need to shut off the main water supply to your house.
Gathering Your Tools and Parts
Having the right tools ready makes the process much faster. You might need a few different items depending on your faucet style.
Essential Tools:
- Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head)
- Pliers (needle-nose are helpful)
- Utility knife or putty knife (to remove caps)
- Safety glasses
- Towel or rag (to catch drips and protect the sink finish)
- Penetrating oil (if parts are stuck)
Parts You Might Need:
- Replacement washers or O-rings
- A new cartridge specific to your faucet brand
- Plumber’s grease (silicone-based)
Tip: Before you start repairing a dripping faucet, place a towel or stopper in the sink drain. This stops small screws and parts from falling down the drain forever.
Deciphering Your Faucet Type
Not all faucets are built the same. The way you approach troubleshooting a leaky faucet depends heavily on its design. There are four main types found in most kitchens:
- Compression Faucets: These are the oldest style. They have separate hot and cold handles that you must tighten down firmly to stop the water.
- Cartridge Faucets: These use a movable stem or cartridge that controls water flow. They usually have one handle or two handles that only turn about a quarter turn.
- Ball-Type Faucets: Often found in older single-handle models, these use a rotating metal or plastic ball to control flow and temperature.
- Ceramic Disc Faucets: The most modern and durable type, these use two ceramic discs that slide against each other to control water.
We will look at how to fix the three most common types that leak: Compression, Cartridge, and Ball-Type. Ceramic disc faucets usually just need a cartridge replacement if they fail.
Fixing a Compression Faucet (Washer Replacement)
If you have separate handles that you must screw down tight, you have a compression faucet. Leaks usually happen because the faucet washer replacement is needed.
Step-by-Step Compression Faucet Repair
- Remove the Handle: Pry off the decorative cap (it often says “H” or “C”) with a utility knife or flat-head screwdriver. Unscrew the handle screw beneath the cap. Pull the handle off.
- Remove the Packing Nut: You will see a hexagonal nut holding the stem in place. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen this packing nut by turning it counter-clockwise.
- Pull Out the Stem: Once the nut is loose, you can pull the entire stem assembly out of the faucet body. You might need to twist it a bit.
- Locate and Replace the Washer: Look at the very bottom of the stem. You will see a small screw holding a rubber washer in place. This washer is usually the culprit. Remove the screw, take off the old washer, and install a new one.
- Check the O-Rings: While you have the stem out, check the small O-rings located further up the stem. If these look cracked or flattened, they are causing leaks around the handle base. Carefully roll the old replacing faucet O-rings off and roll new, lubricated ones on.
- Reassemble and Test: Apply a thin layer of plumber’s grease to the stem threads and O-rings. Screw the stem back into the faucet body. Tighten the packing nut firmly, but do not strain it. Reattach the handle and cap. Slowly turn the water supply back on. Test the faucet.
Fixing a Cartridge Faucet (Common Single-Handle Leaks)
Cartridge replacement faucet units are very common today. If you have a single handle that drips, this is likely your setup. Leaks usually mean the internal cartridge is worn out or cracked.
Step-by-Step Cartridge Replacement Faucet Fix
- Access the Handle Screw: On most single-handle faucets, the screw holding the handle is hidden. It might be under a small decorative button on the front or side, or sometimes underneath the handle base itself (a set screw). Use the correct screwdriver or an Allen wrench to remove it. Pull the handle off.
- Remove the Retaining Clip or Nut: You will see the top of the cartridge. Sometimes, a small brass retaining clip or nut holds the cartridge in place. If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers to pull it straight up. If it’s a nut, unscrew it.
- Remove the Old Cartridge: Cartridges often have tabs or notches. Grasp the top of the cartridge with pliers or use a special cartridge removal tool if the faucet brand requires it. Pull the cartridge straight up and out. Note its orientation—it must go back in the exact same way.
- Install the New Cartridge: Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to find an exact match. Line up the new cartridge correctly (pay attention to the hot/cold markings) and push it firmly into place. Reinstall the retaining clip or nut.
- Reassemble: Put the handle back on, secure the handle screw, and replace the decorative cap. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks.
Ball-Type Faucet Repair Guide
Ball-type faucets, like those made by Delta, use a slotted metal or plastic ball that turns to control water mix. These are tricky because they have many small parts. If this faucet is fixing a faucet that won’t shut off, it often means the springs or seals under the ball are bad.
Step-by-Step Ball-Type Faucet Repair
- Disassembly: Loosen the small setscrew on the side of the handle (usually hidden under a plastic cap). Remove the handle. You will see a cap and collar below it; unscrew these by hand or with pliers wrapped in cloth.
- Remove the Cam Assembly: Lift out the slotted cam, the cam washer, and the control ball. Set them aside carefully.
- Inspect Springs and Seats: Look down into the faucet body. You will see two small rubber seats resting on tiny springs. These springs and seats wear out easily. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the old ones.
- Install New Parts: Place the new springs into the holes first. Then, put the new rubber seats on top of the springs. These seats are crucial for sealing the water flow.
- Reinstall the Ball: Place the control ball back in its socket. Make sure the groove on the ball lines up with the small pin notch in the faucet body.
- Reassemble the Top: Put the cam washer back on top of the ball, ensuring the small tab on the washer lines up with the slot in the faucet body. Place the cam assembly back on and screw the cap and collar back on tightly.
- Final Check: Reattach the handle. Turn the water on slowly. Test the handle action to ensure it moves smoothly and shuts off completely.
Addressing Leaks in Ceramic Disc Faucets
Ceramic disc faucets are highly reliable. If they leak, it is almost always due to a failure of the seals surrounding the disc cartridge, or the cartridge itself has cracked (rarely).
For troubleshooting a leaky faucet of this type, the process is very similar to the cartridge faucet replacement above. You remove the handle, unfasten the retaining mechanism, and swap out the entire disc cartridge assembly. Since the internal discs are polished ceramic, you should not try to clean or repair the discs themselves; replace the whole cartridge unit.
Dealing with Leaks Around the Base or Spout
Sometimes the leak isn’t from the handle, but drips from the base of the spout or leaks out the bottom of the faucet body when the water is on.
Spout Base Leaks and Replacing Faucet O-Rings
If water pools around the base of the spout when the water runs, the O-rings inside the spout assembly are likely the issue.
- Remove the Spout: This often requires removing a retaining nut or screw located at the back or side of the faucet body where the spout meets the base. Gently lift the spout straight up and off the body.
- Locate and Replace O-Rings: On the lower part of the spout body, you will find one or two rubber O-rings seated in grooves. Use a small pick or screwdriver to carefully roll the old rings off.
- Lubrication is Key: Apply a generous coating of silicone plumber’s grease to the new O-rings before rolling them into place. This stops friction and wear.
- Reinstall: Slide the spout back onto the faucet body, making sure the O-rings seat properly. Reinstall any retaining nuts or screws.
Leaks from the Valve Body
If water leaks directly from the underside of the faucet body (where it meets the sink), the gaskets between the faucet base and the sink deck might be failing, or the mounting nuts underneath the sink are loose. Tighten the mounting nuts securely from below. If the leak persists, you may need to remove the entire faucet assembly to replace the base gasket.
Simple Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Leaks
Regular, simple care can greatly extend the life of your faucet components and prevent the need for frequent compression faucet repair or cartridge swaps.
Keep Things Clean
Mineral deposits (limescale) from hard water are a major enemy of faucet seals. These deposits create rough surfaces that cut into rubber washers and O-rings.
- Wipe down the faucet daily with a soft, damp cloth.
- Once a month, use a solution of half white vinegar and half water to clean any mineral buildup around the spout and handles. Rinse well afterward.
Handle with Care
Applying too much force when turning off the water is a common way to damage seals prematurely.
- If you have compression handles, turn them until you feel the water stop, then stop immediately. Do not crank them down forcefully.
- For single-handle faucets, avoid slamming the handle into the stop position.
| Maintenance Action | Frequency | Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Wipe exterior with soft cloth | Daily | Prevents surface mineral buildup |
| Vinegar/Water scale removal | Monthly | Keeps moving parts smooth |
| Check handle tightness | Quarterly | Prevents rattling and wear |
| Lubricate O-rings (if accessible) | Annually (for exposed parts) | Reduces friction and tearing |
Troubleshooting Common Issues During Repair
Sometimes, repairing a dripping faucet hits a snag. Here are solutions for common problems encountered during the process.
The Handle Won’t Come Off
If the handle is stuck due to corrosion or mineral deposits, do not force it.
- Apply a small amount of penetrating oil (like WD-40, but be careful not to get it on rubber parts that seal water) around the base where it meets the stem. Let it sit for 15 minutes.
- Gently wiggle the handle while pulling. If it’s a set screw model, ensure the screw is completely removed.
The New Washer Still Leaks
If you performed a faucet washer replacement on a compression faucet, but it still drips, the problem is likely not the washer itself.
- Check the Seat: Look inside the faucet body where the washer presses against. This metal surface is called the valve seat. If it is pitted, scratched, or corroded, the new washer cannot seal against it. You may need a valve seat dresser tool (available at hardware stores) to smooth the seat, or you might need to replace the entire faucet if the seat cannot be dressed.
- Incorrect Washer Size: Even a slight mismatch in size can cause a leak. Ensure the new washer matches the old one exactly in thickness and diameter.
The New Cartridge Won’t Fit
Cartridges are specific to the brand and model. Using a generic replacement is often a mistake when cartridge replacement faucet is the required fix.
- Always bring the old cartridge to the store or use the faucet’s model number to ensure you get an exact match.
- Verify the orientation. If the cartridge has specific tabs or keyways, they must align perfectly with the slots in the faucet body.
Fixing a Faucet That Won’t Shut Off After Repair
If you finished the repair, but the water flow is erratic or won’t completely stop, you may have introduced air into the lines or failed to seat a component correctly.
- Turn the water supply off again.
- Disassemble the handle/cartridge area one more time.
- Inspect all seals, O-rings, and springs for proper seating.
- Reassemble slowly, ensuring all parts are snug but not overtightened.
- When restoring water, open the faucet handle slightly before turning the main water supply back on. This helps air escape the lines gently.
Faucet Repair Terminology Quick Reference
| Term | What It Is | Common Fix Area |
|---|---|---|
| O-Rings | Small rubber rings sealing the spout base or stem. | Spout base leak |
| Washer | The rubber piece compressed against the valve seat. | Compression faucet leak |
| Cartridge | Self-contained unit controlling flow in modern faucets. | Single-handle drip |
| Valve Seat | The metal surface inside the faucet body where the washer seals. | Persistent compression drip |
| Packing Nut | The nut that holds the stem assembly in place. | Leak around the handle base |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long should a new faucet washer last?
A good quality rubber faucet washer, properly installed in a faucet that is not over-tightened, should last between 3 to 5 years. Ceramic disc and cartridge units often last much longer, sometimes 10 years or more, before needing replacement.
Can I use plumber’s tape (Teflon tape) when fixing a leaky faucet?
Plumber’s tape is used on threaded pipe connections to prevent leaks where two pipes screw together. It is generally not used on the internal working parts of a faucet, like washers or cartridges. For these parts, use silicone-based plumber’s grease.
Do I need a special tool for cartridge replacement faucet repair?
While many cartridge faucets only require pliers and screwdrivers, some major brands use proprietary mechanisms. If you cannot pull the old cartridge out by hand or with gentle prying, you might need a specific cartridge puller tool made for that brand. Check your faucet model online before starting.
My faucet is dripping, but it’s a brand new faucet. What should I do?
If a new faucet leaks immediately, you likely have a manufacturing defect or a component was damaged during shipping or installation. Do not attempt major disassembly yet. If it is under warranty, contact the manufacturer for a replacement cartridge or the entire unit. If you installed it yourself, double-check the installation steps, especially ensuring the retaining nuts are tight and the cartridge is fully seated.
What is the difference between repairing a dripping faucet and fixing a leak around the handle?
A drip means water is passing through the main valve (washer, seat, cartridge, or ball) when the faucet is supposed to be closed. A leak around the handle means the seal around the stem or cartridge housing—usually the O-rings or the packing nut—has failed, letting pressurized water escape around the handle assembly itself.