What is the best way to sharpen kitchen knives? The best way to sharpen kitchen knives often involves using a whetstone, as it gives the most control and creates the sharpest edge. However, many other excellent methods exist, depending on your skill level and the time you have available.
Why Keeping Your Knives Sharp Matters
A dull knife is dangerous. It slips easily when you cut. A sharp knife cuts food cleanly and safely. Good knives last longer if you care for them well. Sharp knives make cooking faster and more fun. They also prevent accidents in the kitchen.
Deciphering Honing vs. Sharpening
Many people mix up honing and sharpening. They are two different things. Knowing the difference helps you keep your knives in top shape.
Honing: Straightening the Edge
Honing fixes the very thin edge of your blade. This edge bends slightly when you use the knife. Honing pushes this edge back into alignment. It makes the knife feel sharp again quickly.
- Honing does not remove metal from the blade.
- You should hone often. Do this every few uses.
- A honing steel is the main tool for this job.
Sharpening: Removing Metal to Create a New Edge
Sharpening actually removes a small amount of metal. This process creates a brand new, sharp edge on the blade. Sharpening is needed when honing no longer brings back the cutting ability.
- Sharpening changes the angle of the blade’s edge.
- This is done much less often than honing.
- You need abrasives for sharpening.
| Feature | Honing | Sharpening |
|---|---|---|
| Goal | Realignment of the edge | Creation of a new edge |
| Metal Removal | None | Yes, removes metal |
| Tool Used | Honing steel (rod) | Whetstones, electric sharpeners |
| Frequency | Often (daily or weekly) | Rarely (every few months) |
Core Knife Sharpening Techniques
There are several great knife sharpening techniques. Choosing the right one depends on your knife type and your comfort level. We will look at the most common methods for home cooks.
Whetstone Usage: The Gold Standard
Whetstone usage is key for achieving truly sharp edges. These stones use different levels of grit to refine the metal. This is the method used by many chefs.
Selecting the Right Whetstones
Whetstones come in two main types: double-sided stones or multiple separate stones. They are graded by grit number. Lower numbers mean coarser stones (more aggressive removal). Higher numbers mean finer stones (polishing).
- Coarse Grits (120 to 800): Good for very dull knives or fixing chips. These remove metal fast.
- Medium Grits (1000 to 3000): Used for general sharpening. This is where most sharpening happens.
- Fine Grits (4000 and up): Used for polishing the edge for razor-like sharpness.
Wet Stone Sharpening Explained
Most popular stones need water to work well. This is wet stone sharpening. The water washes away metal filings. It keeps the stone cutting smoothly.
- Soak the Stone: Put the stone in water until bubbles stop coming out (usually 5–10 minutes). Keep the stone wet while you work.
- Find Your Angle: This is vital. Most Western knives need a 15° to 20° angle. Japanese knives often use 10° to 15°. This is your sharpening angle guide. Find the right angle and keep it steady.
- Start Coarse: Begin on the lower grit side. Push the knife away from you, keeping the angle locked. Pull the knife toward you on the return stroke. Do 10 to 15 strokes per side. You are aiming to create a “burr.” A burr is a tiny lip of metal that rolls over to the other side. Feel for it with your thumb (carefully!).
- Move to Finer Grits: Once you have a burr on one side, flip the knife. Work the other side until you raise a burr there. Then, switch to the next finer stone. Repeat the strokes, using fewer repetitions on each stone.
- Stropping (Polishing): Finish on a very fine stone or a leather strop. This refines the edge and removes the burr completely.
Using an Electric Knife Sharpener Review
For those who want speed and consistency, an electric knife sharpener review is helpful. These machines do the hard work of maintaining the correct angle for you.
Pros and Cons of Electric Sharpeners
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Very fast results | Can remove more metal than manual methods |
| Easy for beginners | Less control over the final edge angle |
| Consistent results | Often noisy |
Many models use abrasive wheels set at fixed angles. Look for multi-stage sharpeners. These often have a coarse slot, a medium slot, and a fine honing slot. They are a good choice among the best knife sharpeners for busy people. Be sure the model you choose matches the angle needed for your specific knives (e.g., 15° for most European blades).
The Manual Knife Sharpener Guide
A manual knife sharpener guide often refers to pull-through devices. These are simple and effective for quick touch-ups, but they are not ideal for deeply restoring a blade.
- V-Shaped Pull-Through Sharpeners: These use carbide or ceramic blades set in a fixed V-shape. You pull the knife through the slots. They are best for very dull, inexpensive knives. They can round the edge slightly over time.
- Ceramic Rod Sharpener: A ceramic rod sharpener functions much like a honing rod, but the ceramic is more abrasive. It’s great for light honing and finishing off a stone-sharpened edge. It removes very little metal.
Achieving the Perfect Sharpening Angle Guide
The angle is the most important part of sharpening. A consistent angle ensures an even edge. If the angles don’t match, the edge will be weak.
Common Knife Angles
Your knife style dictates the angle you need.
- Western/German Knives (e.g., Wüsthof, Henckels): These are durable and thicker behind the edge. They typically use an angle between 20° and 22° per side (40° to 44° inclusive).
- Japanese Knives (e.g., Shun, Global): These are designed for extreme sharpness and thinness. They often use angles between 10° and 15° per side (20° to 30° inclusive).
- Pocket/Outdoor Knives: These often use a more robust 25° angle for better edge retention during hard use.
Methods to Maintain Your Angle
If you use a whetstone, you must practice angle control.
- The Coin Trick: Place a few coins (like dimes) flat on the stone under the spine of the knife. This helps lift the spine slightly, often creating a good rough starting angle approximation.
- Angle Guides: Small plastic or magnetic guides clip onto the spine of your knife. They help keep the angle fixed on the stone. These are excellent for beginners learning whetstone usage.
- Mirroring the Angle: A simpler way to visualize is to set the knife flat on the stone (0°). Then, lift the spine until it is pointing directly at the ceiling (90°). Halfway is 45°. Half of that is about 22.5°. Aim slightly below that halfway mark for 15° to 20°.
Advanced Sharpening Methods
Beyond stones, other tools offer different levels of precision or speed.
Guided Sharpening Systems
These systems use clamps to hold the knife securely. Rods or paddles holding the abrasive material slide through a guide set at a fixed angle.
- Benefits: They offer fantastic repeatability. Once you set the angle, it never changes. This is ideal for achieving identical angles on both sides of the blade.
- Examples: Systems like Wicked Edge or KME are highly regarded but require a higher initial investment. They offer precision rivaling professional work.
Professional Knife Sharpening Service
When you have high-value knives, or if you simply lack the time or desire to learn the skill, consider a professional knife sharpening service.
When to Use a Service:
- Your knife has major chips or a severely damaged edge.
- You own very expensive Japanese knives that require specialized, ultra-fine honing.
- You do not want to invest time in learning stone sharpening.
Professionals often use specialized belt grinders or water-cooled systems. They can restore geometry perfectly. However, be aware that some belt grinders remove significant metal quickly, so ask about their process before sending off custom blades.
Maintaining Sharpness Between Sharpening Sessions
A sharp knife stays sharp longer if you treat it right between true sharpening sessions. This is where honing comes back into play.
The Role of the Honing Steel
A steel rod is essential. Remember, this is for honing, not sharpening.
- How to Use a Honing Steel: Hold the steel vertically, tip down on a cutting board. Hold the knife at the same angle you use for sharpening (e.g., 20°). Draw the knife down and across the steel, alternating sides. Use light pressure. Do 5 to 10 strokes on each side.
- Ceramic Rods vs. Steel Rods: Steel rods generally burnish or straighten the edge. Ceramic rods are slightly abrasive, meaning they remove a tiny bit of metal, offering a small sharpening effect while honing.
Proper Knife Storage and Use
How you use and store your knives greatly impacts how fast they dull.
- Cutting Surface: Always use wood or plastic cutting boards. Never cut on glass, ceramic plates, or stone countertops. These surfaces instantly dull or chip your edge.
- Washing: Hand wash your knives immediately after use. Dishwashers cause corrosion, handle damage, and can dull the edge by knocking it against other utensils. Dry them right away.
- Storage: Store knives in a block, on a magnetic strip, or in-drawer trays. Letting knives rattle around in a drawer is a quick way to blunt the edge.
Evaluating Your Knife’s Sharpness
How do you know when you’ve done a good job? Don’t just feel the edge—test it properly.
The Paper Test
This is the classic test for sharpness.
- Hold a sheet of thin paper (like newspaper or receipt paper) upright by one edge.
- Try to slice downwards through the paper without sawing.
- A truly sharp knife will slice cleanly through the paper with very little downward pressure. A dull knife will catch, tear, or fold the paper.
The Tomato Test
A slightly more practical test for kitchen use.
- A sharp knife should bite instantly into the skin of a ripe tomato with just the weight of the blade. It should glide through with minimal pressure. A dull knife will crush the tomato first.
The Shaving Test (Use Caution!)
The ultimate test is the hair or arm shaving test. A perfectly sharp edge can shave hair off your arm. Stop immediately if you feel any pulling or scraping. This test is only for blades finished on very high grits (6000 grit or higher).
Choosing the Right Tool for Your Needs
Deciding among the best knife sharpeners involves balancing cost, time commitment, and desired results.
| Tool Option | Best For | Skill Required | Cost Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Whetstones (Wet Stone Sharpening) | Ultimate sharpness, restoring heavily damaged edges | High | Low to Medium |
| Electric Sharpener | Speed, consistency for general use | Low | Medium to High |
| Manual Pull-Through | Quick touch-ups on cheap knives | Very Low | Very Low |
| Honing Steel/Ceramic Rod | Daily maintenance (Honing) | Medium | Low |
| Guided System | Precision angle control, repeatability | Medium | High |
If you are starting out, invest in a 1000/6000 grit wet stone sharpening system and practice your sharpening angle guide using an inexpensive angle aid. This combination provides excellent results without the high cost of electric machines or guided setups.
If speed is paramount, research a quality electric sharpener. Read several reviews focusing on how much metal it removes. Less aggressive removal is usually better for longevity.
FAQ Section
How often should I sharpen my kitchen knives?
This depends on use. If you cook daily, you might need to sharpen with a stone every 3 to 6 months. You should hone with a steel or ceramic rod weekly, or even daily, to keep the edge straight between full sharpenings.
Can I sharpen a serrated knife with a whetstone?
Yes, but it is much harder. Serrated knives require specialized tools or careful work on a ceramic rod sharpener or a thin diamond rod. You only sharpen the bevel side (the side facing the edge when cutting), not the flat side.
Does the material of the knife matter when sharpening?
Yes. Softer stainless steel dulls faster but is very easy to sharpen. High-carbon steel holds an edge longer but can be brittle and requires finer stones for polishing. Ceramic knives are very hard and require diamond abrasives; standard stones will not work well.
My knife edge feels rough after using a whetstone. What did I do wrong?
You likely did not remove the burr completely, or you did not use a fine enough finishing stone. A burr feels like a slight lip on the opposite side of where you were grinding. It must be removed by using lighter strokes on the finer grits or by using a leather strop until the edge is completely refined.
Are those cheap pull-through sharpeners really that bad?
They are not “bad,” but they are aggressive. They use carbide cutters that scrape metal away quickly. They work well for bringing a completely wrecked blade back to life, but they quickly ruin the proper geometry of high-quality, thin-edged knives over time. Use them sparingly.