Yes, you absolutely can add crown molding to kitchen cabinets yourself! Crown molding installation kitchen cabinets is a popular DIY project that greatly improves the look of your kitchen. It makes stock cabinets look custom-made. This guide will walk you through every step of attaching crown molding to upper cabinets easily. We will focus on simple methods for great results in your kitchen cabinet top trim installation.
Why Add Crown Molding to Cabinets?
Crown molding fills the gap between the top of your cabinets and the ceiling. This hides uneven ceilings and messy gaps. It gives your kitchen a finished, high-end look. Even if you are doing a DIY crown molding on cabinets project, the result looks professional.
Picking the Right Crown Molding
The first step is choosing the right style and material. This choice impacts both the look and the difficulty of installation.
Types of Crown Molding for Kitchen Installations
There are several types of crown molding for kitchen installations. The material affects how you cut and install it.
| Type of Molding | Material | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wood (Poplar, Pine) | Solid wood | Traditional look, easy to paint/stain | Can warp with moisture, heavier | Classic kitchens |
| MDF | Medium-density fiberboard | Affordable, very smooth finish | Not good with high moisture, heavy | Painted cabinets |
| Polyurethane/PVC | Plastic foam | Lightweight, moisture-proof, crisp details | More expensive, needs careful handling | Modern or humid kitchens |
When choosing a profile, consider the height of your ceiling and cabinet height. Taller ceilings look great with wider molding.
Crown Molding Profiles for Kitchen Cabinets
The profile refers to the shape or cross-section of the molding. Common profiles include:
- Cove: A simple, smooth curve. It is very easy to cut.
- Ogee: Features an S-shaped curve. This is a very popular, classic look.
- Rake: A slanted profile, often used where the ceiling meets a sloped wall.
- Lattice/Dentil: More ornate styles with decorative patterns. These are harder to cut perfectly.
For beginners doing DIY crown molding on cabinets, a simple cove or ogee profile is best. They are easier to manage when making complex cuts.
Gathering Your Tools and Materials
Good preparation saves time and frustration. Get everything ready before you start cutting.
Essential Tools:
- Miter saw (Compound miter saw is highly recommended)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Safety glasses and ear protection
- Coping saw (for inside corners)
- Stud finder
- Clamps or weights (to hold molding while glue dries)
- Caulk gun
Materials Needed:
- Your chosen crown molding pieces
- Wood glue (a strong construction adhesive is also good)
- Small finish nails or pin nails (1 to 1.5 inches long)
- Wood filler or painter’s putty
- Sandpaper (medium and fine grit)
Step 1: Measuring and Cutting Crown Molding for Cabinets
Accurate measuring and cutting crown molding for cabinets is the hardest part. Crown molding is installed at an angle against the cabinet face and the ceiling. This is called the “spring angle.”
Determining the Spring Angle
Most standard crown molding is designed for a 45-degree angle against the wall and a 45-degree angle against the ceiling. However, some molding might be 38 or 52 degrees.
- If using a standard miter saw: You usually do not need to know the spring angle if you use the “miter saw trick” described below.
Setting Up Your Miter Saw for Inside and Outside Corners
The trick is to set the saw blades based on how the molding sits on the cabinet.
1. Inside Corners (Meeting a Wall):
Inside corners are where two pieces meet in the middle of a cabinet run.
- Set the miter angle to 45 degrees.
- Set the bevel angle to 33.85 degrees (or whatever your molding dictates, but 33.85 works for standard 45/45 profiles). If you don’t want to use bevel settings, stick to the two-cut method below.
The Easier Two-Cut Method (No Bevel Needed):
If your saw doesn’t easily adjust the bevel or you are unsure of the spring angle, use this method:
- Step A (Miter Cut): Set your miter saw to 45 degrees. Cut the first piece of molding.
- Step B (Wall Placement): Place the molding piece against the cabinet/ceiling line exactly as it will sit when installed. Mark where it hits the next piece.
- Step C (Second Cut): For the second piece, set the saw to 45 degrees again, but cut it in the opposite direction. This creates two mirrored 45-degree miter cuts, forming a perfect 90-degree inside corner when joined.
2. Outside Corners (Ending a Run):
Outside corners happen where cabinets turn a corner into open space.
- Set the miter angle to 45 degrees.
- Set the bevel angle to 33.85 degrees (or match the inside corner bevel setting).
Crucial Tip: Test Cuts
Always make a test cut on a scrap piece of molding before cutting your main lengths. Join the two test pieces together. If they meet perfectly with no gap, your settings are correct. This is vital for a clean kitchen cabinet top trim installation.
Step 2: Dry Fitting and Planning the Layout
Do not start gluing or nailing until you have tested every piece.
- Measure Everything: Measure the exact length between the outside edge of one cabinet end panel and the outside edge of the other end panel.
- Account for Overhang: Crown molding usually overhangs the cabinet face by about 1/2 inch to 1 inch. Measure this overhang distance carefully. Subtract this overhang distance from your total wall measurement to find the precise length you need to cut for the molding piece.
- Dry Fit: Hold the cut pieces up against the cabinets. Check all inside and outside corners. If a gap exists, mark it and adjust your cuts before proceeding.
Step 3: Attaching Crown Molding to Upper Cabinets
This is where you move from planning to permanent attachment. The goal is a strong hold using both adhesive and fasteners.
Securing Crown Molding to Cabinet Boxes
You need to secure the molding in two ways: to the cabinet frame and to the wall/ceiling above. Securing crown molding to cabinet boxes must be solid.
Adhesive Application:
Use a best adhesive for cabinet crown molding. Construction adhesive (like Liquid Nails) works very well. Wood glue is also strong if you are using nails for immediate support.
- Apply a thin, continuous bead of construction adhesive along the back edge of the molding that touches the cabinet top.
- Apply a thin bead along the edge that will touch the wall or ceiling.
Fastening Strategy:
For the most secure hold, use small finish nails or pin nails. This is vital for long-term stability.
- Nailing into the Cabinet Face Frame: Drive 1.5-inch finish nails through the face of the molding and into the top rail of the cabinet box. Do this every 8 to 12 inches. Aim the nails slightly downward if possible.
- Nailing into the Wall/Ceiling: If the molding touches the wall or ceiling, drive nails at an angle through the molding and into the wall studs or ceiling joists above. This provides the strongest anchor. Use a nail set to sink the nail heads slightly below the wood surface.
Important Note on Gaps: If you have a gap at an inside corner (even after cutting), temporarily clamp the pieces together. Inject a small amount of wood glue deep into the gap before nailing it shut. Wipe off any excess glue immediately with a damp cloth.
Step 4: Handling Difficult Areas
Not every kitchen is perfectly square. You must manage these real-world challenges during crown molding installation kitchen cabinets.
Dealing with Uneven Ceilings
If your ceiling is uneven, the molding will appear to “wiggle” as it runs along the wall.
- Adjust the Angle: Instead of using the standard 45-degree miter cut, you might need to slightly adjust the angle on the saw for the pieces touching the ceiling.
- Use the Gap: Let the adhesive handle minor deviations. When nailing, push the molding tight against the cabinet edge, and let the gap open slightly toward the ceiling. This gap will be filled with caulk later. A slight gap against the ceiling is much easier to hide than a gap against the cabinet face.
Mastering Inside Corners with Coping
While simple mitered cuts work for inside corners if the ceiling is flat, coping is the superior, professional technique, especially if the wall meets the molding at an angle other than 90 degrees.
Coping Steps (The Professional Way to Join Inside Corners):
- Miter Cut: Make a standard 45-degree miter cut on the first piece of molding (Piece A). This piece runs up to the corner junction.
- Coping Cut: On the second piece of molding (Piece B), make the same 45-degree miter cut, but also cut the profile shape into the end grain. You are essentially cutting out the profile shape so that Piece B nests perfectly onto the face of Piece A.
- Tools: Use a coping saw for this delicate work. Cut along the profile line, removing the wood.
- Fit Check: When Piece B is nested onto Piece A, they should form a tight seam that looks like one continuous piece.
Coping ensures a tight seam even if the wall is slightly bowed or not perfectly 90 degrees.
Step 5: Finishing the Installation
Once all pieces are glued and nailed, the hard work of fitting is done. Now it is time for cosmetics.
Finishing Joints in Cabinet Crown Molding
All joints (inside corners, outside corners, and seams between runs) must be finished for a seamless look. This is how you make the kitchen cabinet top trim installation look like one solid piece of wood.
- Fill Nail Holes: Use wood filler for any visible nail holes. Let it dry completely. Sand smooth.
- Caulking Seams: Use high-quality acrylic latex caulk (paintable).
- Run a thin bead of caulk along every seam where two pieces of molding meet. This includes inside and outside corners if they are not absolutely perfect.
- Run a bead where the molding meets the ceiling and where it meets the wall.
- Use a damp finger or a smooth caulking tool to tool (smooth) the caulk into the joint. Wipe away excess immediately.
Pro Tip: Use caulk that matches the final paint color if you plan to paint everything together.
Final Touches: Painting or Staining
If you are using raw wood or MDF molding, you must finish it.
- Priming: Always prime MDF and bare wood before painting.
- Painting: Use a high-quality cabinet paint. Often, painting the molding the same color as the cabinet boxes creates a cohesive look. Painting the molding the same color as the ceiling can make the cabinets look taller.
- Staining: If using real wood, apply stain according to the manufacturer’s directions, then seal with a protective clear coat (polyurethane).
Comprehensive Guide to Cabinet Molding Installation Angles
When installing molding that butts up against a wall or ceiling, the saw settings are critical. For the DIY crown molding on cabinets enthusiast, knowing the “flat” versus “spring” settings helps immensely.
Understanding Standard Molding Placement
Most crown molding rests on a shelf cut into the cabinet top, or it is simply butted against the cabinet face.
| Placement Scenario | Miter Setting (Usually) | Bevel Setting (Usually) |
|---|---|---|
| Outside Corner (Molding against open air) | 45° | 33.85° |
| Inside Corner (Molding against wall) | 45° | 33.85° |
| Straight Run Against Wall (No Corner) | 0° | 0° (No bevel) |
If your molding rests flat on the cabinet top, you might be able to skip the bevel cut entirely and only use 45-degree miter cuts for the corners. However, if the molding is designed to lean against the cabinet face like standard ceiling molding, the bevel is necessary to match the angle of the cabinet top.
Always check the manufacturer’s recommendation for your specific crown molding profiles for kitchen cabinets if you notice major gaps using the standard 45/33.85 settings.
Planning Your Cuts for Long Runs
When running molding across many upper cabinets, you need to plan where to place your seams. Avoid having a very small piece of molding at the end of a run, as these are difficult to secure and look awkward.
- Identify Corner Pieces: Cut all pieces that terminate in an inside or outside corner first.
- Measure Between Corners: Measure the distance between the two finished corner pieces. This is the length you need to cover with straight runs.
- Calculate Seams: If the distance is longer than the longest manageable piece of molding (usually 6-8 feet), you will need a seam in the middle of a long run.
- Make the seam near the center of the run.
- Use a simple butt joint (a straight 90-degree cut meeting another straight 90-degree cut) at the seam if the molding is perfectly flat against the ceiling.
- If using an angled profile, make both sides of the seam a 45-degree cut, matching the profile on both ends. This joint should then be filled and caulked heavily.
Proper planning ensures that when you are attaching crown molding to upper cabinets, you have manageable pieces to work with.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I use construction adhesive alone instead of nails for crown molding installation?
A: While construction adhesive is strong, it relies on curing time and solid surface contact. For long-term security, especially in humid areas like kitchens, it is highly recommended to use finish nails or pin nails along with the adhesive. The nails hold the molding firmly in place while the adhesive cures, preventing sagging or popping out over time.
Q: What is the best way to secure molding to drywall ceilings?
A: Drywall itself offers poor fastening strength for molding. You must locate ceiling joists or blocking behind the drywall. Use a stud finder to mark these locations. Drive longer (2-inch) finish nails or screws directly into the joists, angling them slightly through the molding for maximum grip.
Q: How much overhang should I allow for the crown molding?
A: A typical overhang is between 1/2 inch and 1 inch past the face of the cabinet doors. This overhang is important because it helps hide imperfections on the wall. Check your chosen molding’s dimensions; the overhang is usually determined by the shape of the molding profile where it meets the ceiling.
Q: My molding has gaps where it meets the wall. Can I still paint it?
A: Yes, gaps are very common, especially on older homes with uneven walls. Use paintable acrylic latex caulk to fill any gaps up to about 1/8 inch wide between the molding and the wall/ceiling. Tool the caulk smooth before it dries, and then prime and paint over the caulk for a completely seamless finish.
Q: Do I need a special blade for cutting crown molding?
A: While you can cut molding flat on the table, using a compound miter saw with the blade tilted for the bevel cut (usually around 33.85 degrees) provides much more accurate results for measuring and cutting crown molding for cabinets. If you are unsure of the bevel angle, use the two-cut 45-degree miter method described above to avoid tilting the saw blade.