Yes, you can change a kitchen faucet yourself! It is a common home repair job. Many homeowners tackle this task successfully with the right tools and steps. This guide will walk you through how to install a kitchen faucet smoothly. We will cover everything needed to replace kitchen sink tap and finish the job right.
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Preparing for Your Kitchen Faucet Replacement Guide
Before you grab your tools, good planning saves time and headaches. Knowing what you need upfront is key to a smooth project. This section helps you get ready to remove old kitchen faucet and set up the new one.
Selecting Your New Faucet
Choosing the right faucet is the first big step. Faucets come in different styles and mounting needs. Look closely at your sink.
- Hole Count: Does your sink have one, two, three, or four holes? Your new faucet must match this count. If you have three holes but want a single handle kitchen faucet installation, you might need a deck plate (escutcheon) to cover the extra holes.
- Style: Decide between a single handle kitchen faucet installation or a two handle kitchen faucet change. Single handle faucets are often simpler to use.
- Features: Do you want a pull-down sprayer, soap dispenser, or specific finish?
Gathering the Right Tools for Faucet Replacement
Having the proper tools for faucet replacement makes the job much easier. You need tools for both taking the old one off and putting the new one on.
| Tool Category | Essential Tools | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Safety Gear | Safety Glasses, Gloves | Protect your eyes and hands. |
| Access & Lighting | Flashlight or Headlamp, Small Mirror | See clearly under the sink. |
| Disconnecting | Basin Wrench, Adjustable Wrench | Loosen and tighten nuts under the sink. |
| Removal & Cleaning | Putty Knife, Rags/Towels, Bucket | Scrape old sealant, catch drips. |
| Installation | New Faucet Kit, Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk | Seal the base of the new faucet. |
| Connection | Supply Lines (if not included), Screwdriver | Connect water lines securely. |
The basin wrench is vital. It is specially designed for tight spaces under the sink where regular wrenches cannot reach. If you plan to do this often, consider it the most important tool for this job.
Safety First: Shutting Off the Water Supply
You must turn off the water before starting. This prevents a big mess!
- Locate Shutoff Valves: Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves (one for hot, one for cold water).
- Turn Off Valves: Turn the handles clockwise until they stop.
- Test: Turn on the old faucet handles above the sink. Only a small amount of water should drip out. If water still flows strongly, the shutoff valves are not working, or you need to shut off the main house water supply.
- Drain Lines: Open the faucet again to release any pressure in the lines.
Place a bucket and some old towels under the sink area. Even when the water is off, some water remains in the lines.
Removing the Old Kitchen Faucet
Now it is time to remove old kitchen faucet. This part can sometimes be the hardest due to corrosion and tight spots.
Disconnecting the Water Supply Lines
The supply lines run from the shutoff valves up to the base of the faucet.
- Identify Lines: Note which line is hot (usually marked red or on the left) and which is cold (usually blue or on the right).
- Use the Wrench: Use an adjustable wrench or channel locks to loosen the nuts connecting the supply lines to the faucet tailpieces. Turn them counter-clockwise. Be ready for a little residual water to leak out.
- Disconnect: Once loose, completely detach the supply lines from the faucet stem. If you are keeping your existing supply lines (not always recommended), set them aside carefully. If you are replacing them, disconnect them from the shutoff valves as well.
Detaching the Faucet Mounting Nuts
This is where the basin wrench shines. The mounting nuts secure the faucet body firmly to the sink deck.
- Locate Mounting Hardware: Look directly up at the underside of the sink where the faucet penetrates. You will see large nuts, screws, or a bracket holding the faucet tight.
- Loosen the Nuts: Fit the jaw of your basin wrench around the largest nut holding the faucet in place. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to loosen it. This often requires significant force. Work slowly.
- Remove Bracket/Nuts: Once the main nuts are loose, unscrew any smaller screws or remove the retaining bracket completely.
Lifting Out the Old Faucet
With all connections and mounting hardware removed, the faucet should now be free.
- Pull Up: From above the sink, gently pull the old faucet straight up and out of the sink holes.
- Clean the Surface: Use a putty knife or scraper to carefully remove any old plumber’s putty, caulk, or mineral buildup from the sink surface where the old faucet sat. A clean surface is crucial for the new seal. Wipe the area dry.
Installing the New Kitchen Faucet
This phase covers how to connect new kitchen faucet parts correctly. Read the instructions that came with your specific faucet model carefully, as designs vary.
Preparing the New Faucet and Supply Lines
Many modern faucets come with supply lines already attached. If yours does not, now is the time to attach them before you place the faucet into the sink holes.
- Attach Supply Lines (If Needed): Screw the flexible supply lines onto the threaded inlets at the base of the new faucet. Hand-tighten first, then use a wrench for about a quarter to a half turn more. Do not overtighten plastic threads.
- Apply Sealant: If your faucet did not come with a rubber gasket for the base, you need a sealant. Apply a thin rope of plumber’s putty around the bottom edge of the faucet base or escutcheon plate. If you are using silicone caulk, apply a thin bead around the edge instead. This seals out water from seeping under the base.
Placing the Faucet into the Sink
This step requires maneuvering the faucet body into the holes while keeping the supply lines and hoses hanging down properly.
- Feed Lines Through: Carefully guide the supply lines and the sprayer hose (if applicable) down through the correct holes in the sink deck.
- Seat the Faucet: Lower the faucet body gently onto the sink surface, ensuring it sits flush and the handle is facing the correct direction.
Securing the Faucet from Below
This is the reverse of the removal process. Proper tightening ensures the faucet won’t swivel when you use it.
- Install Mounting Hardware: From under the sink, slide the washer, gasket, and mounting nut (or bracket) up onto the faucet shank(s).
- Hand Tighten First: Thread the nuts onto the shank by hand to hold the faucet steady. Use your mirror and flashlight to check alignment from above one last time.
- Final Tightening: Use your basin wrench or the specialized tool provided by the manufacturer to firmly tighten the mounting nuts. Tighten evenly. The faucet should not move when you nudge it, but do not strain the sink material or the faucet base.
If you are performing a single handle kitchen faucet installation, ensure the handle can move freely forward and side-to-side without hitting the backsplash or sink rim.
Finalizing the Plumbing Connections
This is the critical part of the plumbing for kitchen faucet hookup—connecting the fresh water supply to the new unit.
Connecting the Water Supply Lines
Match the lines correctly to the corresponding shutoff valves.
- Connect Cold Water: Attach the cold supply line from the faucet to the cold water shutoff valve outlet.
- Connect Hot Water: Attach the hot supply line to the hot water shutoff valve outlet.
- Tightening: Use the adjustable wrench to securely tighten the connection nuts. Make them snug, but avoid over-tightening, especially with flexible braided stainless steel lines, as this can damage the rubber seals inside.
Installing the Spray Hose and Weight (If Applicable)
If you have a pull-down or pull-out sprayer, you must connect the spray hose and attach the counterweight.
- Connect Hose: Snap or screw the spray hose onto the corresponding quick-connect fitting coming from the faucet body under the sink. Ensure the connection “clicks” securely.
- Attach Weight: Clip or screw the provided weight onto the lower loop of the spray hose. This weight pulls the sprayer head back into its dock when you let go of it. Test this mechanism to ensure the hose moves freely.
Testing for Leaks and Operation
After installation, you must test your work carefully before declaring the job done.
Restoring Water Flow Slowly
Do not blast the water on full pressure immediately.
- Check Faucet Position: Ensure the handles of the new faucet are in the OFF position above the sink.
- Turn On Valves Slowly: Go back under the sink. Slowly turn the hot and cold shutoff valves counter-clockwise to restore water flow. Listen for any immediate spraying sounds.
- Inspect Connections: While the water is turning on, use your flashlight to look closely at every connection you just made—where the supply lines meet the valves and where they meet the faucet tailpieces. Look for drips or leaks.
Running and Checking the Faucet
If the initial inspection shows no immediate leaks, test the function.
- Flush the Lines: Turn the new faucet on to the cold setting first, running the water at medium pressure for about one minute. This flushes out any debris or air in the lines. Then, run it on hot for a minute.
- Check Aerator: Turn the water off. Remove the aerator screen (the tip of the spout) and check for any sediment caught there. Rinse it off. Reattach it.
- Final Leak Check: Let the faucet run for several minutes, cycling between hot and cold. Turn it off. Get under the sink again with a dry paper towel or tissue. Feel around all connection points and the base of the faucet. A dry paper towel will reveal even the smallest seep.
If you find a leak at a supply line connection, turn the water off, tighten that specific connection slightly more, and retest. If the leak is at the base, you may need to tighten the mounting nuts or carefully add a small amount more plumber’s putty or caulk around the outside edge.
Deciphering Faucet Types: Single vs. Two Handle Installation
While the removal process is similar, there are minor differences when you install a kitchen faucet that has one handle versus two.
Single Handle Kitchen Faucet Installation
Single handle faucets control both temperature and volume with one lever.
- Fewer Connections: They usually have only one main mounting shank, which contains the hot and cold inlets internally. This often means fewer under-sink connections to manage.
- Cartridge Focus: The internal mechanism is a single mixing cartridge. If you are replacing the entire unit, you don’t worry about the cartridge itself. If you are only replacing the cartridge later, it is a single component swap.
Two Handle Kitchen Faucet Change
Two handle faucets have separate controls for hot and cold water, often requiring separate spout connections.
- More Holes: These typically require three holes (one for hot, one for cold, one for the spout) or four holes if the sprayer is separate.
- Separate Valve Stems: You will need to secure two separate valve stems under the sink, one for each handle. Ensure both are seated firmly before tightening the main mounting hardware.
The Best Way to Change a Kitchen Faucet: Tips for Success
The best way to change a kitchen faucet involves patience and thoroughness. Here are extra tips to improve your results.
Tip 1: Use a Helper
If possible, have someone assist you, especially when maneuvering the new faucet into place and holding it steady while you tighten the nuts from underneath. Two pairs of eyes and hands make alignment easier.
Tip 2: Fight Corrosion with Penetrating Oil
If the old mounting nuts are rusted solid, spray them liberally with a penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) about 30 minutes before you plan to start the removal. Let it soak in to break down the rust bond.
Tip 3: Replace Supply Lines
Even if your old supply lines look okay, it is highly recommended to replace them during a faucet swap. Old rubber lines can fail soon after being stressed or moved. Modern braided stainless steel lines are generally more reliable and easier to work with.
Tip 4: Measure Twice, Cut (or Buy) Once
Always measure the distance from the center of the faucet hole to the backsplash before buying a new faucet, especially for pull-down models. Some high-arc faucets might hit the wall or window sill when fully extended.
Tip 5: Know When to Call a Pro
If your shutoff valves are leaking severely, or if the mounting nuts are completely seized and you risk damaging the sink material by forcing them, stop. Sometimes, calling a licensed plumber for the removal is cheaper than replacing a cracked sink basin.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does it take to change a kitchen faucet?
For an experienced DIYer, the process of removal and installation can take about one to two hours. For a first-timer, especially if dealing with old, stuck hardware, plan for three to four hours.
Do I need plumber’s putty or silicone caulk?
Most new faucets include a rubber gasket that seals the base. If a gasket is present, you often don’t need putty or caulk. However, if the sink surface is uneven or the instructions call for it, use plumber’s putty for a flexible seal or silicone caulk for a more permanent, waterproof seal.
What if my new faucet has fewer holes than my sink has?
If you are moving from a three-hole setup (two handles and a spout) to a single handle kitchen faucet installation, you will need a deck plate, often called an escutcheon. This decorative plate covers the unused holes on the sink deck.
Can I reuse my old supply lines when I replace kitchen sink tap?
It is strongly advised against reusing old supply lines. New faucets often come with new lines. If not, purchase new, appropriate-length, flexible supply lines. They are inexpensive insurance against future leaks.
What tool is essential for removing the old faucet?
The basin wrench is the single most helpful tool for reaching and loosening the mounting nuts located in the cramped space directly beneath the sink.