Step-by-Step: How To Change Kitchen Faucet Now

Can I change my kitchen faucet myself? Yes, you absolutely can change your kitchen faucet yourself with basic tools and patience. This guide will walk you through every step of the kitchen faucet replacement process, making your DIY kitchen faucet upgrade simple and successful.

Preparing for Your Kitchen Faucet Replacement

Before you start tearing out the old fixture, careful planning saves time and hassle later. Getting ready is the most important step for a smooth installing a new kitchen faucet job.

Gathering Essential Plumbing Tools for Faucet Replacement

Having the right tools makes the difference between a quick fix and a frustrating afternoon. You don’t need a massive toolbox, but a few key items are crucial for accessing tight spaces and making secure connections. These are the basic plumbing tools for faucet replacement you should have ready:

Basin Wrench: This is your best friend for removing old kitchen faucet mounting nuts, especially if you have a deep sink. It has a long handle and a pivoting jaw.
Adjustable Wrenches (Two): You need one to hold a fitting still and another to turn the nut. This prevents pipes from twisting.
Pliers: Channel locks or slip-joint pliers help grip various fittings.
Safety Glasses: Debris or drips can fall into your eyes. Protect them!
Bucket and Old Towels: Water will drip out when disconnecting lines.
Flashlight or Headlamp: It is dark under the sink!
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk: Needed to seal the new faucet base to the countertop (check your faucet instructions).
Safety Gloves: Protect your hands from sharp edges.
Teflon Tape (Pipe Thread Sealant Tape): Essential for sealing threaded connections for connecting water lines to kitchen faucet.

Selecting Your New Kitchen Faucet

When buying a new faucet, check its configuration. Does it have one hole, two, three, or four? Your sink deck must match the base plate (escutcheon) size of the new unit. If you are moving from a three-hole setup (hot handle, cold handle, spout) to a single-hole unit, your new faucet will likely come with an optional deck plate to cover the extra holes. This guide focuses mainly on the single handle faucet installation, which is the most common modern choice, including the popular pull-down faucet replacement guide needs.

Removing Old Kitchen Faucet Components

This stage often takes the longest. Working under sink faucet connections can be awkward and dirty. Take your time here to avoid damaging existing supply lines or the sink basin.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

This step is critical before attempting any removing old kitchen faucet work.

Locate Shutoff Valves: Look directly under the sink. You should see two small valves—one for hot water (usually on the left) and one for cold water (usually on the right).
Turn Off the Water: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Do not overtighten them.
Test the Faucet: Turn on the old faucet handles above the sink to release any remaining pressure and drain the water left in the lines. Let it run until the flow stops completely.
Protect the Area: Place your bucket and towels directly under the connections you will be working on.

Disconnecting Supply Lines

This is where you connect the under sink faucet connections to the main water lines.

Use one adjustable wrench to hold the shutoff valve steady.
Use the second wrench to loosen the coupling nut connecting the flexible supply line to the shutoff valve. Be ready for residual water to drip into your bucket.
Repeat this process for both the hot and cold lines.

Detaching the Faucet Mounting Nuts

This is usually the toughest part of the removing old kitchen faucet process.

Locate Mounting Hardware: Look up at the base of the faucet from underneath the sink. You will see large nuts, screws, or a mounting bracket holding the faucet shank firmly against the sink deck.
Use the Basin Wrench: Fit the jaw of your basin wrench around the largest nut securing the faucet body. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen it. This might require significant force if the metal has corroded or seized up over the years.
Remove Weights (If Applicable): If you have a pull-down faucet replacement guide needs, there will be a small weight attached to the spray hose loop underneath the sink. Simply unclip or unscrew this weight and set it aside.
Lift Out the Old Faucet: Once all nuts and mounting hardware are removed, carefully lift the old faucet body straight up and out from the top of the sink deck. Clean any old putty or grime from the sink surface using a scraper or gentle abrasive pad.

Installing Your New Kitchen Faucet System

Now that the old unit is gone, it is time for the satisfying part: putting the new one in. This section covers the installing a new kitchen faucet procedures.

Preparing the New Faucet Components

New faucets often come in several pieces that need initial assembly on the countertop or floor before placement.

Review Instructions: Every faucet is slightly different. Read the manufacturer’s guide for your specific model first.
Apply Sealant (If Needed): If your new faucet has a base plate (escutcheon) and does not use a rubber gasket, apply a thin rope of plumber’s putty or a bead of silicone caulk around the underside edge of the plate. This stops water from seeping under the plate and damaging your cabinet.
Attach Supply Lines: Many modern faucets have the hot and cold supply lines pre-attached to the faucet shank. If yours do not, you must thread the new supply lines onto the faucet tailpieces now, before inserting the faucet into the sink hole. Wrap the threads lightly with Teflon tape before screwing them on clockwise by hand, then gently tighten with a wrench.

Seating the Faucet in the Sink Hole

Positioning the faucet correctly ensures it looks straight and functions properly.

Feed Lines Through: Gently feed the supply lines and the faucet shank down through the hole(s) in the sink deck.
Align the Faucet: From above the sink, make sure the faucet handle or spout is facing the desired direction (usually centered). Ensure any deck plate covers all necessary holes.
Secure the Faucet from Below: Go back under the sink. Slide any washers or mounting plates onto the faucet shank threads. Thread the mounting nut(s) onto the shank.
Tightening: Hand-tighten the nut first. Then, use your basin wrench to snug it up. Do not overtighten, which can crack the sink or strain the faucet base. The faucet should not wiggle when you gently try to move it.

Completing the Single Handle Faucet Installation

If you are performing a single handle faucet installation, ensure the handle mechanism is properly aligned before the final tightening. Sometimes, the handle must be in the “off” position when installed.

For modern pull-down models, you will attach the spray hose weight now.

Attaching the Weight: Locate the spot on the pull-down hose loop underneath the sink where the plastic weight is designed to clip on. This weight is essential; it pulls the sprayer head back into the spout when you let go. Clip it securely in place.

Connecting Water Lines to Kitchen Faucet

This stage connects your new fixture to the home’s water supply. Accuracy here prevents leaks. This is the core of connecting water lines to kitchen faucet work.

Linking Supply Lines to Shutoff Valves

You are now connecting the flexible lines coming from the new faucet to the shutoff valves under the sink.

Identify Hot and Cold: Confirm which flexible line corresponds to hot (usually red marking or attached to the left side of the faucet body) and which is cold (blue marking or right side). Ensure these match the hot and cold shutoff valves.
Thread the Connection: Carefully align the threaded end of the supply line with the corresponding shutoff valve inlet. Turn clockwise by hand until it catches thread.
Wrench Tightening: Once hand-tight, use one wrench to hold the shutoff valve steady. Use the second wrench to gently tighten the coupling nut onto the valve. Stop turning as soon as you feel firm resistance. Overtightening risks stripping the threads or damaging the internal seals, causing a slow leak.

Final Checks Before Turning Water On

Before fully pressurizing the system, double-check everything.

Is the faucet body secured tightly to the sink deck?
Are the supply lines firmly attached to both the faucet base and the shutoff valves?
Is the pull-down sprayer hose weight positioned correctly?

Testing the New Installation

This is the moment of truth. Slow, careful testing minimizes the risk of a sudden flood.

Reintroducing Water Pressure Slowly

Ensure Faucet Handle is OFF: Confirm the handle on your new faucet is in the closed (off) position.
Slowly Open Valves: Go back under the sink. Very slowly, turn the hot water shutoff valve counter-clockwise just a quarter turn. Listen and look closely for any immediate drips near the valve connection.
Check Cold Water: Repeat the process for the cold water valve.
Full Pressure Check: If there are no leaks at the valves after a minute, open both valves fully (counter-clockwise).

Purging Air and Checking for Leaks

Air trapped in the lines must escape, and the system needs a full pressure test.

Run the Faucet: Turn the handle on the new faucet to the “cold” position and run the water at half pressure for about one minute. This pushes out air bubbles.
Check Hot Water: Switch the handle to the “hot” position and run for another minute.
Inspect Thoroughly: Turn the water off. Get your flashlight and carefully inspect every single connection point you touched—the nuts at the shutoff valves and the nuts securing the faucet shank under the sink. If you see even a tiny drop forming, turn the water off immediately and carefully tighten that specific connection slightly more.

If everything is dry after 15 minutes of running the faucet on full hot and cold, congratulations! You have successfully completed your DIY kitchen faucet upgrade.

Specific Considerations for Different Faucet Types

While the general process remains similar, specialized faucets require extra attention.

Single Handle Faucet Installation Nuances

Modern single handle faucets often use ceramic disc cartridges. These are sealed units.

Cartridge Alignment: Make sure the internal cartridge is seated correctly before tightening the handle assembly. Misalignment causes the handle to feel stiff or not provide the full range of motion.
Handle Stop: Some models have internal stops that limit how far the handle can swivel for hot or cold. Follow the manual for adjusting these if desired.

Pull-Down Faucet Replacement Guide Specifics

The integration of the sprayer head adds a component that needs smooth operation.

Hose Management: The hose that retracts the sprayer must be routed correctly around any pipes or garbage disposal units under the sink. If it snags, the sprayer won’t retract properly.
Hose Connection: If the pull-down hose itself detaches near the base (common for easier replacement), ensure the quick-connect fitting clicks securely into place. These connections are usually secure but should be pulled lightly to verify they are locked.

Table: Common Faucet Replacement Issues and Fixes

Issue	Probable Cause	Quick Fix
Faucet wobbles after installation.	Mounting nut is loose.	Tighten the mounting nut using the basin wrench.
Water leaks from supply line connection.	Threads are not sealed or connection is loose.	Turn off water, remove line, apply fresh Teflon tape, and retighten firmly.
Handle feels stiff or won’t move fully.	Cartridge misalignment or debris trapped.	Turn off water, remove handle, check cartridge seating, and clear debris.
Sprayer head won’t retract fully.	Weight is missing or hose is snagged.	Check hose path; ensure the weight is clipped onto the hose loop.
Water flow is weak on one side.	Shutoff valve is not fully open.	Turn the corresponding valve fully counter-clockwise.

Deciphering Under Sink Faucet Connections

The space beneath the sink basin is the core of any plumbing job. Being organized here is key to success when dealing with under sink faucet connections.

Working in Tight Quarters

The main challenge is physical access.

Positioning: Lie on your back directly under the sink, using your flashlight. If you have a garbage disposal, you might need to temporarily disconnect it if it blocks access to the rear mounting nuts.
Tool Strategy: Always use the basin wrench for the faucet mounts. Use the adjustable wrenches for the supply lines. Keep your tools organized on a small tray so they don’t roll away into the cabinet.

Identifying Connection Types

You will primarily encounter threaded connections.

Compression Fittings: These use a nut and a ferrule (a small ring) to create the seal. Be gentle when removing these old fittings, as you often replace the entire flexible line, not just reuse the compression nut.
Quick-Connect Fittings: Newer installations often use plastic or metal quick-connect fittings for the sprayer hose or sometimes for the supply lines themselves. These usually have a locking tab you must depress before pulling the hose apart.

Achieving the Best Way to Change a Sink Faucet

The best way to change a sink faucet involves minimizing damage to existing plumbing and maximizing the longevity of the new seals.

Use Penetrating Oil: If old nuts are rusted or corroded, spray them liberally with penetrating oil (like WD-40) 30 minutes before attempting to loosen them.
Clean Surfaces Completely: Ensure the sink or countertop surface is perfectly clean before placing the new faucet gasket or putty. Any grit can create a leak path.
Teflon Tape Protocol: Always use Teflon tape on male pipe threads (the threads you screw into something else). Do not put Teflon tape on flared fittings or compression nuts; these rely on the gasket or ferrule seal, not the threads, for water tightness.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long does it usually take to change a kitchen faucet?

A: For an experienced DIYer with all tools ready, the process might take one to two hours. For a first-timer doing a kitchen faucet replacement, especially if the old hardware is stuck, budget three to four hours. Allow extra time for cleaning the sink deck.

Q: Do I need to turn off the main water supply to the house?

A: No, usually you only need to turn off the hot and cold shutoff valves directly under the sink. Only turn off the main house supply if those local valves are old, leaking, or if they do not fully stop the water flow.

Q: My new faucet has a deck plate, but my old faucet only used one hole. Can I still use the plate?

A: Yes. The deck plate (escutcheon) is designed specifically to cover the extra holes (usually two) left behind when upgrading from a three-hole setup to a single-hole faucet. Ensure you use plumber’s putty or silicone sealant under the plate as required by the manufacturer.

Q: What is the difference between a basin wrench and a regular wrench?

A: A basin wrench has a very long handle and a pivoting jaw designed specifically to reach up behind the sink basin and grab the large mounting nuts that hold the faucet in place, which are impossible to reach with standard adjustable wrenches.

Q: Why is my new faucet leaking at the base even though I used sealant?

A: Leaks at the base usually mean the faucet shank mounting nut is not tight enough, allowing water to seep underneath the gasket or putty. Turn off the water, tighten the main mounting nut slightly more, and retest. If it still leaks, remove the faucet and ensure the sink surface was perfectly clean before resealing.