Yes, you can absolutely change out your kitchen faucet yourself! Many homeowners find that installing a new kitchen faucet is a very doable weekend project with the right tools and a little patience. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from removing old kitchen faucet parts to connecting water lines to faucet connections securely. If you are fixing a leaky kitchen faucet, often the easiest fix is a full replacement, making this a great time for a DIY kitchen faucet upgrade.
Getting Ready: Planning Your Faucet Swap
Swapping out your old tap for a new one seems simple, but preparation is key. Rushing this job leads to spills and frustration. Make sure you have everything ready before you turn off the water supply.
Tools Needed for Faucet Replacement
Having the correct gear makes the job much faster and safer. You don’t want to realize halfway through that you need a special wrench. Here is a list of essential items for tools needed for faucet replacement:
- Basin wrench (This is vital for tight spaces!)
- Adjustable wrenches (Two sizes are helpful)
- Pliers (Channel-lock style works best)
- Bucket and old towels or rags
- Safety glasses
- Flashlight or headlamp (It is dark under the sink!)
- Plumber’s putty or silicone sealant
- Screwdriver (Phillips and flathead)
- Utility knife (For cutting old caulk)
- Penetrating oil (Like WD-40, for stuck nuts)
- New faucet kit and supply lines (If not included)
Choosing Your New Faucet
Before starting under sink faucet removal, pick your new fixture. Check the hole configuration on your sink deck. Does it have one, two, three, or four holes?
- One Hole: Perfect for modern single handle faucet installation.
- Three Holes: Common for older faucets. If your new faucet only needs one hole, you will need a deck plate (escutcheon) to cover the extra holes.
Measure the height and reach of the spout. You want a new faucet that fits your sink basin without splashing water everywhere.
Phase One: Removing the Old Fixture
The goal here is safe and complete under sink faucet removal. Always work slowly when taking things apart.
Shutting Off the Water Supply
This is the most important first step. You must stop the water flow to the faucet.
- Look under the sink for the shut-off valves. You should see two: one for hot water (usually on the left) and one for cold water (usually on the right).
- Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them hard, especially if they feel old.
- Test the faucet handles above the sink. Run both hot and cold water to release any built-up pressure and drain the remaining water from the lines. A small drip is normal; a steady stream is not!
If your shut-off valves are old or do not work, you must shut off the main water supply to your entire house. Locate this valve, usually in the basement, garage, or near the water meter outside.
Disconnecting Supply Lines
Now that the water is off, you can detach the lines leading to the faucet shanks.
- Place your bucket directly under the connections. Even with the water off, some residual water will drain out.
- Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the coupling nuts that attach the flexible supply lines to the shut-off valves. Turn counter-clockwise.
- Once the lines are free from the wall valves, detach them from the bottom of the faucet tailpieces if they are separate. If your lines are integrated into the faucet body, you skip this step for now.
Detaching the Faucet from the Sink
This is often the hardest part. The mounting nuts hold the faucet tight against the sink, and corrosion makes them stick.
- Get your headlamp on and look up underneath the sink basin. You will see large mounting nuts or screws securing the faucet base.
- If the nuts are plastic or brass, be gentle. If they are metal and rusted, spray them with penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes.
- Use your basin wrench to grip these nuts. The basin wrench is designed to reach up and around pipes. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen them. It might take significant force.
- Once the nuts are loose, use your hand or pliers to spin them off completely. Keep track of any washers or metal plates.
- If the base of the faucet is sealed with old caulk or plumber’s putty, use your utility knife to carefully slice through the seal where the faucet meets the sink deck.
Lifting Out the Old Fixture
With all connections and mounting hardware gone, gently push the faucet up and out of the top of the sink. If it resists, check again for any hidden clips or connections you missed.
Clean the sink surface thoroughly where the old faucet sat. Scrape off any old putty, silicone, or mineral deposits. A clean surface is vital for a good seal on the new unit.
Phase Two: Installing the New Fixture
This phase covers setting up your new unit. If you are performing a single handle faucet installation, the mounting process might be slightly different from a traditional three-hole faucet.
Preparing the New Faucet
Read the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific model. Some modern faucets are assembled above the sink, while others require partial assembly underneath.
- Apply Sealant: If your faucet base does not have a rubber gasket, you need to apply a thin bead of plumber’s putty or silicone sealant around the bottom edge of the faucet base plate (escutcheon). This prevents water from dripping beneath the sink deck.
- Install Supply Lines (If necessary): Some faucets require you to thread the new hot and cold supply lines into the faucet body before mounting it through the sink holes. Hand-tighten these first, then use a wrench for a quarter-turn more. Do not overtighten.
Mounting the Faucet Base
- Carefully feed the new faucet body and supply lines down through the hole(s) in the sink. Ensure the faucet sits straight and faces the correct direction.
- From below, slide the necessary mounting hardware—usually a gasket, metal washer, and mounting nut—onto the faucet shank(s).
- Hand-tighten the mounting nut(s) to hold the faucet in place.
- Go back above the sink and check alignment. Once you are happy with how it looks, tighten the mounting nuts firmly using your basin wrench. They need to be tight enough so the faucet does not spin, but do not crush the sink material.
Connecting Water Lines to Faucet
This step links your faucet to your home’s water supply. If you bought a faucet that came with integrated supply lines, you are connecting the faucet side to the wall valves.
- Hot to Hot, Cold to Cold: Double-check that the water lines correspond correctly. The hot line typically connects to the left valve, and the cold line connects to the right valve.
- Use your adjustable wrench to connect the flexible supply lines to the existing shut-off valves.
- Start by hand-tightening the compression nuts.
- Use the wrench to tighten them about a half to three-quarters of a turn past hand-tight. They must seal perfectly to avoid leaks, but overtightening can damage the plastic or rubber seals inside.
If you are installing a sprayer or soap dispenser, install those components now, following the directions specific to those attachments.
Phase Three: Testing and Final Checks
You are almost done with your step-by-step faucet replacement! Now, we need to make sure everything is sealed correctly before turning the water back on full blast.
Priming the New Faucet (Removing Air)
New faucets, especially single-handle ones, often have air trapped in the lines or the cartridge.
- Remove the aerator (the screen tip) from the end of the spout. This prevents debris or loosened sediment from clogging it during the initial flush.
- Go under the sink and slowly turn the hot and cold shut-off valves back on (counter-clockwise). Listen and watch closely for any immediate leaks at the connections you just made.
- Go back above the sink. Turn the faucet handle to the middle position (mixed temperature). Let the water run for several minutes. This allows air to escape and flushes out any manufacturing debris.
- Turn the water off. Reinstall the aerator.
Leak Inspection: The Crucial Step
A slow leak under the sink can cause major damage over time. This inspection must be thorough.
- Check Supply Line Connections: Use a dry paper towel or rag and wipe down every threaded connection you made under the sink. Let the water run for a few minutes, then check the paper towel. If it is damp, tighten the connection slightly more (a tiny adjustment). Repeat until dry.
- Check Mounting Nuts: Look for any drips coming down from the base of the faucet where it meets the sink deck. If you see weeping, tighten the mounting nuts slightly more from underneath.
If you notice persistent dripping at the supply valve connections, you may need new rubber washers inside the compression fittings.
Deciphering Common Faucet Installation Issues
Sometimes the swap doesn’t go perfectly smoothly. Knowing what problems to look for helps streamline troubleshooting. This is especially true when performing a DIY kitchen faucet upgrade on an older sink setup.
Low Water Pressure
If the water flow seems weak after installation:
- Check the Aerator: This is the number one culprit. Turn the water off, remove the aerator again, and run the water for a minute. If the pressure is suddenly strong, the aerator was clogged with debris from the lines or manufacturing. Clean it and reinstall.
- Check Shut-Off Valves: Ensure both the hot and cold valves are fully open (turned counter-clockwise as far as they will go).
Spray Hose or Side Sprayer Issues
If your faucet has a separate side sprayer, check these items:
- Hose Kinks: Make sure the sprayer hose is not kinked or pinched tightly against the plumbing or cabinet wall.
- Diverter Valve: Modern pull-down faucets use a diverter valve to switch flow from the spout to the spray head. Ensure this mechanism is seated correctly according to the manual.
Handle Sticking or Stiff Operation (Single Handle Faucets)
If the single handle faucet installation results in a stiff handle:
- The handle assembly may have been overtightened onto the faucet body threads. Slightly loosen the set screw or cap that secures the handle to allow freer movement.
- The internal cartridge might be binding if it wasn’t seated perfectly straight during assembly.
Finalizing Your Kitchen Faucet Replacement
Once you confirm there are absolutely no leaks and the water pressure is good, you have successfully finished the job! Congratulations on your DIY kitchen faucet upgrade.
Wipe down the area, put away your tools, and dispose of the old hardware responsibly. Enjoy the look and functionality of your brand-new kitchen tap. If you were fixing a leaky kitchen faucet, you’ve likely saved money and increased your home’s efficiency.
Simple Comparison: Putty vs. Silicone for Sealing
When securing the base plate, choosing the right sealant matters for longevity and future removal.
| Sealant Type | Pros | Cons | Best Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plumber’s Putty | Easy to mold; easy to clean up later. | Can stain porous materials (like marble); degrades over time with harsh chemicals. | Quick replacement; non-porous sinks (stainless steel). |
| Silicone Caulk | Strong, waterproof seal; lasts longer; resists stains. | Messy to apply; much harder to remove later when you need to replace kitchen sink faucet again. | Permanent fixtures; porous stone or granite sinks. |
Most new faucets come with a rubber gasket, which eliminates the need for putty or silicone entirely. Always check the manual first.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How long should it take to replace a kitchen faucet?
A: For an experienced DIYer, the entire process, including under sink faucet removal and reconnection, can take about 1 to 2 hours. If this is your first time, plan for 2 to 4 hours, allowing extra time for dealing with stuck nuts or reading instructions carefully.
Q: Can I use pipe thread tape (Teflon tape) when connecting water lines to faucet?
A: Generally, no. Modern faucet supply lines use compression fittings, which rely on tight metal-to-metal contact or built-in rubber gaskets to seal. Teflon tape is meant for threaded pipe joints, not compression fittings. Using tape here can actually prevent a proper seal and cause leaks.
Q: My shut-off valves are old and won’t turn. What should I do?
A: If the valves are stuck, forcing them can break them, leading to a major flood. Stop turning immediately. Your safest option is to shut off the main water supply to the house, then proceed with removing old kitchen faucet parts. It is highly recommended to replace those old shut-off valves before continuing with the faucet installation, or hire a plumber just for that part.
Q: What size basin wrench do I need for faucet replacement?
A: Basin wrenches are adjustable. A standard model that opens up to about 1.5 inches in jaw width usually covers the nuts found on most residential faucets. Ensure the handle is long enough to give you good leverage in the confined space.