Yes, you can absolutely change out your kitchen faucet yourself. This DIY guide will walk you through every step needed to successfully replace kitchen sink faucet without calling a professional plumber.
The process of installing new kitchen faucet might seem tough. However, with the right plan and tools for faucet replacement, most homeowners can manage this job in an afternoon. We will cover everything from shutting off the water to securing the final connections.
Preparing for Your Kitchen Faucet Replacement
Good preparation makes the job much easier. Before you grab your wrench, take time to gather supplies and clear the area.
Selecting Your New Faucet
First, ensure your new faucet fits your sink. Sinks usually have one, two, three, or four holes. Check your current setup. Do you need a faucet that covers three holes, or can you use a deck plate to cover unused holes? Bring your old faucet with you when shopping if you are unsure. This helps match the size and mounting style.
Gathering Essential Tools
You will need a specific set of tools for faucet replacement. Having these ready saves time later.
| Tool Category | Specific Items Needed | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Plumbing Tools | Basin Wrench (Crucial!) | To reach and loosen nuts in tight spaces. |
| Adjustable Wrench or Pliers | For tightening or loosening supply line nuts. | |
| Bucket and Old Towels | To catch water when you disconnect old faucet. | |
| Sealing & Cleaning | Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk | Sealants for faucet installation (Check faucet instructions). |
| Utility Knife or Scraper | To remove old caulk or putty. | |
| Safety & Access | Safety Glasses | To protect your eyes from falling debris. |
| Flashlight or Headlamp | For seeing clearly under sink plumbing. | |
| Gloves | To keep hands clean and protected. |
Clearing the Workspace
Empty everything out from under sink plumbing area. Move cleaning supplies, trash bins, and anything else stored there. You need space to lie down and work comfortably. Lay down a drop cloth or old towels to catch drips.
Step 1: Shutting Off the Water Supply
This is the most vital first step. You must stop the water flow before doing anything else.
Locating the Shut-Off Valves
Look under sink plumbing for two small valves. One controls the hot water line (usually on the left). The other controls the cold water line (usually on the right). Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. They should feel tight.
Testing for Water Flow
Once the valves are closed, turn on your old faucet in the sink. This releases built-up pressure and drains any remaining water in the lines. Let the water run until it slows to a drip or stops completely.
If you cannot find local shut-off valves, you must turn off the main water supply to your house. This is usually near your water meter or where the main line enters your home.
Step 2: Disconnecting the Old Faucet
Now we prepare to disconnect old faucet lines. Be ready for a little water spillage here.
Detaching Supply Lines
Place your bucket directly under the connections. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nuts connecting the flexible supply lines (the hoses leading from the faucet down to the shut-off valves). Turn counter-clockwise.
- Expect some residual water to spill out.
- Keep towels handy to absorb spills immediately.
- If you have a sprayer hose, disconnect that too.
Removing the Faucet Mounting Nuts
This is often the hardest part because access is tight under sink plumbing. This is where the basin wrench shines.
- Locate the large nuts or screws holding the faucet base to the sink deck.
- Fit the jaws of your basin wrench around the nut.
- Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to loosen the nuts. You may need considerable force. If the nuts are corroded, spray them with a penetrating oil first and wait 15 minutes.
Once all mounting hardware is off, the old faucet should lift straight up and out of the sink holes. If it resists, check for old caulk or putty underneath. Use a scraper or utility knife to gently break the seal around the base.
Removing Faucet Handles (If Applicable)
If your old faucet has separate hot and cold handles, you might need to remove them before lifting the main body. Look for a small decorative cap (often marked H or C) on top of the handle. Pry this cap off gently with a small flathead screwdriver. Below the cap, you will find a screw. Remove this screw to lift off the handle. This process helps when you are removing faucet handles for disposal or replacement.
Step 3: Preparing the Sink Deck for the New Faucet
A clean surface ensures your new fixture sits flush and seals correctly.
Cleaning Off Old Sealants
Scrape away all old plumber’s putty or silicone caulk from the sink surface where the old faucet sat. Use a plastic scraper or a dull putty knife. Do not scratch the sink material. Wipe the area clean with a damp cloth and let it dry completely.
Inspecting the Mounting Area
Check the holes to make sure they are clear of debris. If your new faucet comes with a deck plate (escutcheon) to cover extra holes, ensure the holes are covered before mounting.
Step 4: Installing New Kitchen Faucet Components
Time to bring in the new hardware! Always read the specific instructions that came with your new faucet, as designs vary.
Attaching Supply Lines and Base Plate
Many modern faucets come with supply lines already attached to the faucet body. If yours does not, thread the new supply lines into the bottom of the faucet body now, hand-tightening them, then giving them a quarter-turn with a wrench for a snug fit. Do not overtighten.
If you are using a deck plate, place it over the sink holes now.
Seating the Faucet
Carefully lower the new faucet body through the holes in the sink deck, aligning it correctly with the mounting holes. If the instructions call for sealants for faucet installation, apply a thin bead of plumber’s putty or silicone caulk to the bottom edge of the faucet base or the deck plate.
From under sink plumbing, slide the provided washers and mounting nuts onto the threaded shanks of the faucet body.
Securing the Faucet
This step requires good access and patience while you secure the mounting kitchen tap.
- Hand-tighten the mounting nuts first.
- Use your basin wrench or the specialized tool provided with your faucet to firmly tighten the nuts.
- Ensure the faucet is straight and facing forward before applying the final torque. You want it secure, but avoid crushing the sink material.
- If you used silicone sealant, wipe away any excess that squeezes out immediately.
Step 5: Connecting Water Lines
This phase deals with connecting water lines to your home’s plumbing.
Attaching Supply Lines to Valves
Take the hot and cold supply lines coming from the new faucet and connect them to the corresponding shut-off valves under sink plumbing.
- Hot to Hot, Cold to Cold: Double-check this! Reversing them causes confusion later.
- Thread the connection nut onto the valve stem by hand first. This prevents cross-threading.
- Use your adjustable wrench to gently tighten these connections. They must be snug to prevent leaks, but forcing them can damage the lines or the valve threads. A slight turn past snug is usually enough.
Connecting Sprayer Hoses (If Applicable)
If your faucet includes a pull-down sprayer, connect its hose according to the manufacturer’s directions. This usually involves a quick-connect fitting or threading a nut onto a base piece. Ensure the sprayer hose weight hangs freely and does not kink.
Step 6: Testing for Leaks and Final Checks
Do not put everything away yet! Testing is essential to ensure a good seal.
Slowly Restoring Water Flow
Go back to the shut-off valves under sink plumbing. Slowly turn the cold water valve counter-clockwise to open it. Listen and watch for immediate leaks.
Next, slowly open the hot water valve. If you see water dripping or spraying where you made connections, shut the water off right away.
Inspecting Connections
If you see leaks:
- Turn the water off immediately.
- Slightly tighten the leaking connection one more quarter turn.
- Turn the water back on and check again. Repeat if necessary, but be careful not to strip the threads.
Testing the Faucet Operation
Once you confirm all supply line connections are dry, run the water through the new faucet.
- Turn the faucet on to full blast, testing both hot and cold sides.
- Check the base of the faucet where it meets the sink deck. Look for any seepage around the base. If water seeps here, you might need to tighten the mounting kitchen tap nuts slightly, or you may need to remove the faucet and reapply fresh sealants for faucet installation.
- Test the aerator screen for good flow.
Troubleshooting Dripping Faucet (Post-Installation Check)
If your new faucet drips immediately, this is rare but can happen if debris got caught in the cartridge during installation. Turn the water off, remove the handle, and gently inspect the cartridge according to the manual. If your old faucet was dripping, a clean installation should solve that problem entirely.
Advanced Tips for Smoother Installation
For those jobs that present extra challenges, these tips can help you navigate tricky situations.
Dealing with Tight Spaces and Corrosion
Working under sink plumbing often means scraping your back and elbows. A basin wrench is your best friend here. If you are removing faucet handles or supply lines that are heavily corroded:
- Use a penetrating oil spray (like WD-40). Let it soak for 20 minutes.
- Tap the fitting lightly with a wrench handle to help the oil penetrate the rust.
- Use smooth, steady pressure rather than sudden jerks when loosening old hardware.
Deciphering Cartridge Systems vs. Compression Faucets
New faucets mostly use ceramic disc cartridges. These are durable and less likely to fail than older compression washers. When you are installing new kitchen faucet, note that cartridge faucets require the stem to be seated perfectly. Make sure the cartridge is oriented exactly as the manual shows before securing it.
Using the Right Sealants for Faucet Installation
Choosing between putty and silicone is important.
- Plumber’s Putty: Good for metal faucets on solid surfaces like porcelain or stainless steel. It stays pliable and is easy to clean up later.
- Silicone Caulk: Better for stone countertops (like granite or marble) because putty can sometimes stain porous stone over time. Silicone creates a stronger, more permanent waterproof seal. Always check your faucet manufacturer’s specific recommendation.
Summary of the Faucet Replacement Process
Here is a quick list to review your actions when you replace kitchen sink faucet:
- Shut off water supply.
- Drain remaining water pressure.
- Disconnect supply lines under sink plumbing.
- Use a basin wrench to disconnect old faucet mounting nuts.
- Remove old fixture and clean the sink surface.
- Apply putty/silicone and seat the new faucet base.
- Secure the mounting kitchen tap hardware from below.
- Complete connecting water lines securely.
- Slowly turn water on and check all connections for leaks.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How long does it take to change out a kitchen faucet?
A: For an experienced DIYer, replacing a standard faucet can take 1 to 2 hours. If you have significant rust, difficult access, or are removing faucet handles that are stuck, it might take 3 to 4 hours.
Q: What if I cannot find the shut-off valves under my sink?
A: If you look under sink plumbing and only see pipes leading into the wall or floor without accessible valves, you must locate and shut off the main water supply to your house before proceeding with disconnecting the water lines.
Q: Do I need plumber’s putty or silicone caulk for faucet installation?
A: Check your new faucet’s manual. Generally, plumber’s putty works well for standard sinks, but silicone caulk is safer for natural stone countertops to prevent oil staining. Both qualify as good sealants for faucet installation.
Q: My new faucet drips a little right after I finish installing it. Should I worry?
A: A very slow drip right after installing new kitchen faucet might just be air trapped in the lines. Run the faucet for a few minutes, cycling between hot and cold. If the drip persists after 24 hours, you might need to look at the internal cartridge or check if debris is stuck in the line leading to the spout. This is often related to troubleshooting dripping faucet issues common in new installations.