How To Fix A Dripping Kitchen Faucet Now

Can I fix a dripping kitchen faucet myself? Yes, absolutely, most common dripping faucet issues are simple enough for a homeowner to tackle with basic tools and a little patience. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about repairing leaky faucet issues and getting your faucet to stop wasting water.

A constant drip from your kitchen faucet is more than just annoying; it wastes a surprising amount of water and money over time. If you are looking to stop faucet dripping quickly, the key is pinpointing the part that has worn out. This usually involves replacing small internal components like washers, O-rings, or cartridges. We will cover the steps for the most common faucet types.

Locating the Source of the Drip

Before you grab your toolbox, you need to know what kind of faucet you have. Different types use different parts to control water flow. Knowing the type helps you buy the correct replacement parts.

Faucet Types Common in Kitchens

Faucet Type	How It Works	Common Parts That Fail
Compression Faucet	Uses rubber washers pressed down to stop water.	Washers and O-rings.
Cartridge Faucet	Uses a movable cartridge to control flow and temperature.	The cartridge itself.
Disk Faucet	Uses ceramic disks that slide past each other.	Inlet seals or the entire disk assembly.
Ball Faucet	Uses a rotating metal or plastic ball. (Common in older single-handle types)	Inlet seals and springs.

Most modern faucets are cartridge types. If you have a single-handle faucet, you are likely dealing with a cartridge or ball mechanism. Fixing single handle faucet drips usually means replacing the cartridge.

Essential Tools for DIY Faucet Repair

You do not need a plumber for this job. Gather these simple tools first. Having them ready makes DIY faucet repair much smoother.

Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Screwdriver set (flathead and Phillips)
Pliers (needle-nose are helpful)
Hex keys (Allen wrenches) – often needed for handle setscrews
Utility knife or small flathead screwdriver (for prying caps)
White vinegar and an old toothbrush (for cleaning mineral deposits)
Replacement parts (washers, O-rings, or a new cartridge)

Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply

This is the most important step! Never start taking a faucet apart before turning off the water.

Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two shut-off valves—one for hot water and one for cold water.
Turn both handles clockwise until they stop. This shuts off the water flow to the faucet.
Turn the faucet handles on to drain any remaining water in the lines. Let it drip until the water stops completely. This relieves pressure.

If you cannot find the shut-off valves under the sink, you must turn off the main water supply to your entire house.

Step 2: Disassembly – Getting to the Guts

The way you take apart the faucet depends on its style. We will focus on the most frequent culprits: compression and cartridge styles.

Taking Apart a Two-Handle Faucet (Often Compression Style)

Two-handle faucets often cause drips due to worn-out washers. Faucet washer replacement is the fix here.

Remove the Handle Cap: Look for a decorative cap (often labeled H or C, or just a colored button) on top of the handle. Carefully pry this off using a thin flathead screwdriver or utility knife. Be gentle to avoid scratching the finish.
Remove the Handle Screw: Under the cap, you will see a screw holding the handle onto the valve stem. Use the correct screwdriver to remove this screw. Set the screw and cap aside safely.
Remove the Handle: Lift the handle straight up. If it is stuck, wiggle it gently.
Remove the Packing Nut (Bonnet Nut): You will now see a large nut surrounding the valve stem. This is the packing nut. Use your adjustable wrench to turn this nut counter-clockwise to loosen it.
Pull Out the Stem Assembly: Once the packing nut is off, you can pull the entire stem assembly straight out of the faucet body.

Taking Apart a Single-Handle Faucet (Often Cartridge Style)

If you are fixing single handle faucet drips, you are likely looking at the cartridge.

Locate the Setscrew: On single-handle faucets, the handle is usually held on by a small setscrew. This is often located on the side or back of the handle base. You will likely need a small hex key (Allen wrench) to loosen this.
Remove the Handle: Once the setscrew is loose, lift the handle off.
Remove the Cap/Dome: There might be a decorative dome or cap covering the cartridge. Unscrew this by hand or with pliers (wrap the jaws of the pliers with tape to protect the finish).
Remove the Retaining Clip or Nut: Cartridges are held in place either by a small retaining clip (often U-shaped brass or plastic) or a retaining nut. If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers to pull it straight up. If it’s a nut, unscrew it.
Pull Out the Cartridge: Gently pull the old cartridge straight out. Sometimes you need a special cartridge puller tool, but often you can grip the top stem with pliers and rock it side-to-side while pulling up.

Step 3: Diagnosing and Replacing Worn Parts

Now that you have the internal mechanisms exposed, you can see the leaky faucet causes.

Repairing Compression Faucets (Washer Replacement)

If you have a compression faucet stem assembly:

Inspect the Washer: At the very bottom of the stem you removed, there is a small rubber washer held in place by a brass screw. This washer is what presses against the valve seat to stop water flow. It is usually cracked, flattened, or hardened if it is the source of the leak.
Remove the Old Washer: Unscrew the brass screw and remove the old washer.
Install the New Washer: Take the old washer to a hardware store to match the size perfectly for your faucet washer replacement. Place the new washer on the stem and tighten the brass screw just enough to hold it securely. Do not overtighten, or you will ruin the new washer quickly.
Check the O-Rings: Also look at the small O-rings located around the stem body. These stop water from leaking out around the handle base. If they look cracked or brittle, remove them and slide new, matching O-rings into their grooves. Lubricate new O-rings lightly with plumber’s grease.

Fixing Cartridge Faucets

If you have a cartridge faucet, the entire cartridge assembly usually needs replacing, though sometimes just the seals at the base of the cartridge are the issue.

Inspect the Cartridge: Look for cracks or mineral buildup on the plastic or brass body of the cartridge.
Replace the Cartridge: It is best practice to replace the entire unit when cartridge replacement kitchen faucet is needed. Ensure the new cartridge is oriented exactly the same way the old one was. Many have small tabs or notches that must align with slots in the faucet body.
Clean the Housing: While the cartridge is out, look inside the faucet body where the cartridge sits. Use a small brush dipped in vinegar to clean out any mineral scale or debris. This ensures the new cartridge sits flush.

Step 4: Dealing with Other Common Faucet Problems

Sometimes the drip isn’t from the washer or cartridge alone. Common faucet problems require a few extra steps.

Fixing Leaky Spouts (Swivel Faucets)

If water leaks from the base of the spout where it swivels, the issue is with the O-rings surrounding the spout body, not the handle mechanism. This requires replacing faucet spout O-rings.

After removing the handle and any retaining nuts/clips (as described above), you often need to lift the entire spout straight up and off the faucet base.
You will see one or more O-rings seated around the base of the spout pipe.
Carefully roll or cut off the old O-rings.
Clean the groove thoroughly.
Lubricate the new O-rings with plumber’s grease and slide them into place.
Reinstall the spout, ensuring it seats correctly before replacing the retaining nuts and handles.

Addressing Noisy Faucets

If your faucet squeaks or rattles when you turn it on or off, you might be fixing noisy faucet issues.

Cause 1: Loose Parts: A rattling noise often means a part is loose. Check that the packing nut (on compression faucets) or the retaining nut (on cartridge faucets) is tightened properly after repair.
Cause 2: Worn Washers/Seats: In compression faucets, a worn-out washer can cause vibration as water rushes past it, leading to a squeak. Replacing the washer usually solves this.
Cause 3: Mineral Buildup: Hard water deposits can cause parts to grind against each other. Thorough cleaning during disassembly is key to stop faucet dripping and noise.

Step 5: Reassembly and Testing

Reassembly is simply doing the disassembly steps in reverse. Take your time and ensure everything is snug, but avoid extreme force.

Insert the Stem/Cartridge: Place the repaired stem or new cartridge back into the faucet body. Make sure alignment tabs or notches line up perfectly.
Secure It: Reinstall the retaining clip or tighten the retaining nut.
Reattach the Handle: Put the handle back on and secure it with the handle screw. Replace the decorative cap.
Turn Water Back On (Slowly!): Go back under the sink and slowly turn the hot and cold shut-off valves counter-clockwise to restore water flow. Turn them on slowly to prevent a water hammer shock.
Test for Leaks: Turn the faucet on and off several times. Check the spout for drips and inspect under the sink area for any leaks around the base of the faucet handles. If you still see a drip, shut the water off again and re-check the part you replaced (washer or cartridge alignment).

Deciphering Faucet Leaks: Dripping vs. Leaking

It is important to know where the water is coming from when you try to stop faucet dripping.

Drip from the Spout: This almost always means the part that stops water flow (washer, cartridge, or ceramic disk) has failed.
Leak from Under the Handle: This means the seals or O-rings around the stem or cartridge body are bad. This is usually fixed by replacing O-rings or the entire cartridge.
Leak at the Base of the Spout: This indicates failure of the O-rings inside the spout housing, requiring replacing faucet spout seals.

Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Leaks

Regular, simple care can greatly extend the life of your faucet parts and reduce the need for emergency repairs.

Use Plumber’s Grease: Whenever you replace O-rings or install a new cartridge, apply a thin layer of silicone-based plumber’s grease. This keeps parts moving smoothly and prevents premature wear.
Clean Regularly: Wipe down the faucet regularly. Use a soft cloth and mild soap. If you see mineral buildup (white or green crust), use a cloth dampened with white vinegar to gently dissolve it. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch chrome or brushed finishes.
Avoid Over-Tightening: Many common faucet problems stem from over-tightening during previous repairs or regular use. Overtightening crushes washers and stresses cartridges, leading to faster failure. Tighten fittings until they are snug, then give a final slight turn, but no more.

If, after replacing the main component (washer or cartridge), the drip persists, the problem might be the valve seat itself (in older compression faucets). The valve seat is the brass component inside the faucet body that the washer presses against. If this metal surface is pitted or rough, no new washer will seal perfectly.

Repairing a Damaged Valve Seat

If the valve seat is damaged, you will need a valve seat dresser tool. This is a specialized tool that grinds down the metal surface of the seat to make it smooth again. This is a more advanced part of DIY faucet repair.

Shut off the water and remove the stem (as detailed in Step 2).
Insert the seat dresser tool into the faucet body opening.
Turn the tool slowly to hone the seat until it is smooth and flat.
Clean out any metal shavings thoroughly before reassembling the faucet.

For many homeowners, if the drip continues after a simple cartridge or washer swap, calling a professional might be the next logical step, especially if the faucet is very old or the valve seat needs serious work. However, for the vast majority of drips, the issue is solved by the simple faucet washer replacement or cartridge replacement kitchen faucet.

Summary for Quick Fixes

When you need to stop faucet dripping fast, follow this simple checklist:

Shut off the water supply under the sink.
Remove the handle to access the internal mechanism.
Identify if you have a compression style (look for a screw holding a washer) or a cartridge style.
Replace the worn washer (compression) or the entire cartridge (cartridge style).
Clean any mineral deposits found inside the housing.
Reassemble everything carefully.
Turn water back on slowly and check your work.

By following these detailed steps, you can successfully handle most leaky faucet scenarios, save water, and feel good about completing a successful home repair project.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: How long should a new faucet cartridge last?

A: A quality new faucet cartridge should typically last between 10 to 15 years under normal household use. How long it actually lasts depends heavily on the quality of your water (hard water wears components faster) and how roughly the faucet is handled.

Q: What if my faucet is still dripping after I replaced the cartridge?

A: If you performed a cartridge replacement kitchen faucet and the drip remains, check these three things:
1. Alignment: Ensure the new cartridge is seated perfectly square in the faucet body. Misalignment is a very common error.
2. Housing Debris: Look inside the faucet housing again. Tiny grit or a piece of old O-ring might be stuck on the valve seat, preventing a seal. Clean it out completely.
3. The Faucet Body Itself: If the metal body of the faucet is cracked or badly corroded, no part will seal correctly, and the faucet itself might need replacement.

Q: Do I need a special tool for fixing noisy faucet issues on my single-handle faucet?

A: For most standard single-handle cartridge faucets, you will need a small hex key (Allen wrench) to remove the handle setscrew. If you are performing a cartridge replacement kitchen faucet, you might need a specific cartridge puller if the old one is seized in place, though many brands sell replacement cartridges that include the necessary removal tool.

Q: What is plumber’s grease and why do I need it for DIY faucet repair?

A: Plumber’s grease (or silicone faucet grease) is a non-petroleum, waterproof lubricant. You use it when replacing O-rings and installing new cartridges. It prevents the rubber parts from sticking, binding, or tearing when the faucet is used, helping the mechanism move smoothly and preventing leaks around the handle area.

Q: Is it better to replace the washer or the whole stem assembly on a compression faucet?

A: If you are performing faucet washer replacement, it is usually sufficient to replace just the washer and the O-rings on the stem. However, if the brass screw holding the washer is stripped, or the stem threads are corroded, replacing the entire stem assembly is often the most reliable way to ensure a long-lasting seal.

Q: My faucet drips slowly, but the leak is coming from the base of the handle, not the spout. What part needs fixing?

A: A leak from under the handle means the seals surrounding the stem or cartridge have failed. If it is a compression faucet, this means replacing the packing washers or O-rings around the stem shaft. If it is a cartridge faucet, this means the seals on the cartridge body have failed, necessitating a full cartridge replacement kitchen faucet.