Yes, you can install crown molding above your kitchen cabinets yourself with basic tools and patience. Attaching crown molding to cabinets is a popular way to give your kitchen a custom, finished look. This cabinet top molding tutorial will walk you through every step of kitchen cabinet molding installation. We will cover everything from choosing the right molding to making those tricky corner cuts.
Why Add Crown Molding to Kitchen Cabinets?
Crown molding changes how your kitchen looks. It bridges the gap between the top of your cabinets and the ceiling. This makes cabinets look taller and more built-in. It adds a touch of style and class to the room.
Deciphering Crown Molding Profiles for Kitchen Cabinets
Not all crown molding is the same. Crown molding profiles for kitchen cabinets come in many shapes. These shapes are called profiles. You need a profile that matches your kitchen’s style.
Common Molding Styles
Think about the look you want. Do you like modern or traditional designs?
| Style | Description | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Simple/Modern | Straight lines, minimal curves. | Sleek, contemporary kitchens. |
| Colonial | Medium size with clear steps and curves. | Classic, standard home styles. |
| Ornate/Traditional | Deep curves, detailed carvings. | Grand, formal kitchens. |
Tip: Take a picture of your existing baseboards or door trim. Try to find a cabinet molding profile that closely matches. This ensures the whole room looks unified.
Gathering Your Tools for Installing Cabinet Crown Molding
Having the right tools for installing cabinet crown molding makes the job much easier. You do not need a huge workshop, but precision tools are key.
Essential Tool Checklist
- Miter Saw: This is the most important tool. It must cut precise angles. A power miter saw is best for speed and accuracy.
- Coping Saw: Needed for inside corners if you choose coping over splicing.
- Stud Finder: To locate wall studs for secure fastening.
- Level: To ensure the molding is perfectly straight.
- Tape Measure: For accurate length readings.
- Pencil: For marking cuts.
- Nail Gun (Pneumatic or Cordless): Recommended for securing crown molding to cabinet frames. Finish nails (1.5 to 2 inches) work well.
- Pin Nailer: Useful for attaching small pieces or starting the process.
- Wood Glue: High-quality wood glue helps joints hold strong.
- Clamps or Pin Vise: To hold small pieces while glue dries.
- Caulk and Putty Knives: For finishing touches later.
- Safety Gear: Glasses and ear protection are musts.
Preparation: Measuring and Planning Your Cuts
Good planning prevents wasted material. Measure twice, cut once—this old saying is very true here.
Measuring the Runs
Measure the length of the top of each cabinet run.
- Measure the distance from the end of the cabinet run to the wall.
- Measure the distance across the front of the cabinet run.
- Measure any return pieces needed for the ends that meet a wall.
Crucial Step: Write down all measurements clearly. Label which measurement belongs to which wall section.
Fathoming Miter Cuts for Corners
This is often the hardest part of installing crown molding above cabinets. Crown molding is installed at an angle, not flat against the cabinet top.
When you cut a corner, you are setting the molding to run into the next piece smoothly. The angle you cut depends on the angle of the corner.
- Outside Corners (Like the outside edge of an L-shaped kitchen): You need a 45-degree angle. This angle slopes away from the wall.
- Inside Corners (Where two cabinet runs meet inside a corner): You also need a 45-degree angle. This angle slopes into the wall.
For perfect corners, you must set your miter saw correctly.
The Art of Making Miter Cut Crown Molding for Cabinets
When cutting crown molding, the saw blade must be set to the correct bevel and miter angles. If you set the saw flat (like cutting a 2×4), the resulting angle won’t match the molding profile correctly.
Setting Up the Miter Saw
Most crown molding sits on the saw base in a specific way. This is called “spring angle.” Most crown molding has a 38-degree or 52-degree spring angle built in.
Best Practice: Use the “Practice Cut” Method
Instead of relying solely on math charts, test your saw settings on scrap wood first.
- Identify the Cut: Decide if you need an inside or outside 90-degree corner.
- Set the Miter: Set your saw’s miter angle to 45 degrees.
- Set the Bevel: This angle accounts for the molding’s profile. For most standard crown molding, a 33.8-degree bevel setting works well when the molding is laid flat on the saw table (this creates a compound miter cut). However, this depends entirely on your molding’s specific profile.
If you use the correct compound miter angle (usually 45° miter and 33.8° bevel for standard stock), your pieces should meet perfectly in a corner.
Handling Inside vs. Outside Corners
| Corner Type | Cut Direction | How Pieces Meet |
|---|---|---|
| Outside Corner | Both pieces are cut so the longest edge slopes outward. | The two angled points meet to form the outer point. |
| Inside Corner | Both pieces are cut so the longest edge slopes inward. | The two angled points meet to form the inner recess. |
If your cuts don’t meet perfectly, don’t worry. That is what filler is for later.
Installation Phase: Attaching Crown Molding to Cabinets
Now it is time to start putting the pieces up. Working in sequence is important. Start with the longest, most visible run first.
Step 1: Finding the Right Height
Crown molding must be attached securely. You need to hit a stud in the wall or the top frame of the cabinet.
- Hold the first piece of molding up to the cabinet top.
- Use your level to check if the cabinet run is straight. If the cabinet tops are not level, the molding will highlight this flaw. You may need to shim the bottom of the molding slightly to make it appear level against the ceiling.
- Mark where the top edge of the molding meets the ceiling and the bottom edge meets the cabinet frame.
Step 2: Securing Crown Molding to Cabinet Frames
Securing crown molding to cabinet frames is generally easier than attaching it to the ceiling drywall. Cabinets provide solid wood to nail into.
- Apply a thin bead of best adhesive for crown molding on cabinets (like construction adhesive) to the back of the molding where it touches the cabinet frame.
- Hold the piece firmly in place.
- Use your nail gun to drive finish nails through the molding and into the cabinet face frame. Place nails about every 12 to 16 inches.
- If you are nailing into drywall above the cabinet, aim for wall studs. If you cannot hit a stud, use the adhesive liberally and use longer finish nails that penetrate deeply into the cabinet top frame or ceiling joists if possible.
Step 3: Dealing with Wall Transitions (The Return Cut)
When a run of molding ends at a wall, you need a “return.” A return is a small piece that turns the molding back into the wall, hiding the raw, cut end.
- Cut the main piece of molding at a 45-degree angle as if it were meeting another piece on the wall.
- Take a scrap piece of molding. Cut a tiny piece (about 1 inch long) at the opposite 45-degree angle.
- Glue these two small pieces together (the main piece and the return piece) to form a perfect 90-degree turn.
- Attach this glued assembly to the end of your main run. This creates a seamless finish where the molding meets the wall.
Step 4: Installing Inside and Outside Corners
Install the corner pieces first if you have an L or U shape kitchen. This sets your starting points.
- Outside Corner Check: Test fit the two outside corner pieces. If they meet cleanly at 90 degrees, glue and nail them together first. If there is a gap, you will fix it later.
- Inside Corner Check: Test fit the two inside corner pieces. These are often trickier. Some pros prefer to cope inside corners rather than miter them, but for beginners, perfectly cut miters are usually faster.
Coping vs. Miter: Advanced Corner Techniques
While miter cut crown molding for cabinets is standard, coping is often used for inside corners. Coping allows the profile of one piece to fit snugly against the face of the other piece, which can hide slight imperfections in wall angles.
How to Cope an Inside Corner
- Make your 45-degree miter cut on the molding piece that will go against the wall (the “face” piece).
- Take the second piece (the “return” piece) and cut its 45-degree miter.
- On the face of this second piece, use your coping saw to carefully cut along the profile line you just cut. You are essentially cutting away the waste wood, leaving only the profile shape sticking out.
- This profiled edge should fit perfectly against the mitered edge of the first piece.
Finishing Touches: Filling Gaps and Painting
Even the best cuts might have tiny flaws. Filling gaps in cabinet crown molding is essential for a professional look.
Addressing Gaps
Use high-quality acrylic latex caulk for filling gaps. Avoid pure silicone caulk, as it often cannot be painted.
- Small Gaps (Less than 1/8 inch): Use paintable caulk. Run a thin bead along the seam where the molding meets the cabinet or ceiling. Wipe off the excess immediately with a damp finger or cloth.
- Larger Gaps (Over 1/8 inch or noticeable dips): Use wood filler or spackle first to fill the void. Let it dry completely. Sand lightly if necessary. Then, caulk over the top of the filled area.
Final Fastener Concealment
Any visible nail or pin holes must be filled.
- Use wood putty or colored wood filler that matches your molding color (if painting, white filler works).
- Press the filler firmly into the hole with a putty knife.
- Wipe away the excess immediately.
Painting or Staining
If your molding is raw wood, paint or stain it now. If you are matching existing cabinets, use a paint sample from the cabinet manufacturer.
- Apply painter’s tape where the molding meets the ceiling or wall if you are nervous about keeping the lines clean.
- Apply two thin coats of paint, allowing full drying time between coats. Thin coats prevent dripping and sagging.
Advanced Tips for Successful Installation
Installing crown molding above cabinets successfully often relies on small, smart tricks.
Dealing with Uneven Ceilings
Ceilings are rarely perfectly flat or level. If your ceiling slopes upwards from one end of the cabinet run to the other:
- The molding should always follow the line of the cabinet top, not the ceiling line.
- When you get to the ceiling edge, the gap created by the uneven ceiling will need to be filled generously with caulk. This is the easiest way to hide ceiling imperfections when installing crown molding above cabinets.
Adhesion Strategies
While nails provide mechanical strength, adhesive adds stability, especially in humid areas like kitchens.
When using construction adhesive (e.g., Liquid Nails):
- Apply small “dots” or “worms” of adhesive every 6 to 8 inches along the back of the molding.
- Use the nails to hold the piece firmly while the adhesive cures. This prevents bowing or pulling away over time. This method is critical for the best adhesive for crown molding on cabinets.
Working with Appliance Garages and Vents
If you have sections above a refrigerator or microwave (appliance garages), measure carefully. These often require a simple “butt joint” (a straight 90-degree cut) where the molding butts into the side panel of the appliance cabinet. Ensure the top surface is flat before measuring.
Summary of Key Installation Steps
Here is a quick review of the flow for kitchen cabinet molding installation:
- Measure Everything: Note all lengths, heights, and angles.
- Test Corners: Use scrap wood to find the perfect compound miter setting for your saw.
- Cut Outside Corners: Cut the pieces that jut out from the cabinet first.
- Cut Inside Corners: Cut the pieces that recess into the wall corners.
- Attach Runs: Start with the longest run. Apply glue, then use nails to secure the molding to the cabinet frames.
- Install Returns: Attach the small pieces that turn the molding back into the wall.
- Fill and Finish: Caulk all seams and fill all nail holes. Paint or stain for the final look.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Installing Cabinet Crown Molding
Q1: Can I install crown molding if my ceiling is not flat?
A: Yes, you can. Moldings should follow the cabinet line. You will need to use a larger amount of caulk where the molding meets the uneven ceiling. This extra caulk will hide the gap once painted.
Q2: What is the best way to attach molding to drywall on top of cabinets?
A: For attaching crown molding to cabinets where the top meets drywall, use a strong construction adhesive along with finish nails driven into studs. If you cannot find studs, use long finish nails and rely more heavily on the adhesive.
Q3: Do I need a special miter saw angle for crown molding?
A: Yes. Standard cuts use a compound miter setting (a combination of miter and bevel angles). For most common molding styles, this is often 45 degrees on the miter scale and around 33.8 degrees on the bevel scale, depending on the molding’s spring angle. Always test on scrap wood first.
Q4: Should I paint the molding before or after installation?
A: It is generally easier to paint or stain the molding pieces before you install them. This allows you to apply even coats without worrying about paint dripping onto your cabinet boxes or ceiling. You only need to touch up the caulk lines after installation.
Q5: What type of nail should I use for securing crown molding to cabinet frames?
A: Use 1.5-inch or 2-inch finish nails (or pin nails for very thin molding). Drive them at a slight angle (toe-nailing) through the molding and into the solid wood frame of the cabinet structure. This ensures a tight hold.