Yes, you absolutely can make your own kitchen units! Building fitted kitchens yourself is a very rewarding way to save money and get exactly the look you want. This guide shows you step-by-step how to tackle building custom kitchen furniture, from the basic box to the final touches.
Planning Your Kitchen Build: The First Crucial Steps
Good planning stops costly mistakes later. Before cutting any wood, you need a solid plan for your kitchen cabinet design. This involves knowing exactly where every cabinet, appliance, and sink will go.
Measuring for Kitchen Units Accurately
Precise measurements are key for success when measuring for kitchen units. Measure the room walls carefully. Always check the room twice, or even three times.
- Measure the width of each wall space.
- Measure the height from the floor to the ceiling.
- Note where pipes, vents, and electrical outlets are.
- Remember that walls are rarely perfectly straight. Measure the length at the top and bottom of the wall space. Use the smallest measurement for your planning.
Deciding on Materials for the Carcass
The main box of the kitchen unit is called the carcass. This needs to be strong. Most people use furniture-grade plywood or MDF (Medium-Density Fibreboard).
| Material | Pros | Cons | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plywood | Very strong, resists moisture well | More expensive, edges need sealing | Areas near sinks |
| MDF | Smooth finish, cheaper, easy to paint | Heavy, swells if it gets very wet | Standard boxes, dry areas |
| Particle Board | Cheapest option | Weakest, needs very good covering | Budget builds |
Building the Foundation: Kitchen Carcass Construction
Kitchen carcass construction is the core of making your units. This involves building the basic box shape. We focus here on assembling base cabinets first, as they hold up the worktops.
Cutting the Panels
You will need side panels, a base panel, a top panel (or hanging rail), and a back panel for each unit. Use your measurements to draw cutting lines onto your chosen material. Use a circular saw with a good guide rail for straight, clean cuts.
Safety First: Always wear safety glasses and ear protection when cutting wood.
Assembling Base Cabinets: Step-by-Step
Base cabinets typically stand about 870mm tall, including the feet and the worktop thickness. Standard depth is 580mm, which allows space behind for plumbing.
Step 1: Prepare the Pieces
Lay out all the cut pieces for one cabinet. If you are using plywood, you may want to iron or glue veneer tape onto any exposed edges now.
Step 2: Join the Sides to the Base
Apply strong wood glue to the joining edges. Use screws or specialized cabinet connectors (like Confirmat screws) to join the side panels to the base panel. Keep the corners perfectly square. Use a large square tool to check this.
Step 3: Adding the Back Rail and Top Rail
Attach a thinner piece of wood across the top front edge (the top rail). This gives you something solid to attach choosing kitchen unit doors to later. Attach a back support rail near the top for extra strength.
Step 4: Fitting the Back Panel
The back panel is usually thin hardboard or thin plywood (6mm or 9mm thick). This panel stops the cabinet from twisting or racking. Glue and nail or screw this panel onto the rear edges of the carcass. Make sure the carcass is square before fixing the back panel fully. A square box is a stable box.
Fitting Kitchen Unit Legs
You need legs to support the cabinet and adjust its height. Fitting kitchen unit legs is easy if you use adjustable plastic legs designed for kitchens.
- Decide where the legs go: usually one near each corner underneath the base panel.
- Attach mounting blocks (small wooden blocks) securely to the underside of the base panel where the legs will screw in.
- Screw the adjustable feet into these blocks.
- When you place the unit, you twist the feet to raise or lower the cabinet until it is perfectly level and at the correct height.
Constructing Wall Units
Installing wall units follows a similar process to base units, but they are shallower and designed to hang securely from the wall structure.
Building the Wall Box
Wall units are typically 300mm to 350mm deep.
- Assemble the box just like the base cabinet.
- Wall units often need strong internal shelving supports. Use sturdy shelf pins or screw fixed dowels.
- The back panel is vital for wall units because it transfers the load to the wall. Ensure this panel is securely fixed with good screws.
Hanging Wall Units Safely
This is the most important safety step for wall units. They must be fixed directly into wall studs (if you have plasterboard/drywall) or securely into solid masonry using appropriate heavy-duty fixings.
Use a sturdy hanging rail (a strong wooden batten screwed firmly to the wall studs) across the entire length of where the units will sit. The units then hook onto this rail. This method makes installing wall units much easier and safer than fixing each one individually.
Customization: Making Bespoke Kitchen Units
The real advantage of making bespoke kitchen units is customization. You are not limited by standard sizes.
Adapting for Irregular Spaces
If you have a gap between a cabinet and a wall, you can build a filler panel (a scribe panel). This is usually a piece of matching material that you cut precisely to fit the gap after the main cabinets are installed and leveled.
For corner units, you might build an angled unit or a “blind corner” unit, which requires careful calculation of the internal space versus the external footprint.
Shelving and Drawer Runners
When building the carcass, plan the internal layout.
- Shelves: If you want fixed shelves, screw them directly to the sides of the carcass for strength. If you want adjustable shelves, drill rows of holes for shelf pins at equal heights on both sides before assembly.
- Drawers: Drawers require space for the runners. Standard drawer runners need about 12mm clearance on each side of the drawer box. Mark the positions for the runners inside the carcass before final assembly.
Choosing Kitchen Unit Doors and Drawer Fronts
Once the boxes are built, you must decide on choosing kitchen unit doors. This is where you define the look of your new kitchen.
Options for Doors
- DIY Painted Doors: If you used high-quality MDF for the carcass, you can build simple frame-and-panel doors or flat slab doors. Sand them very smooth and use a high-quality kitchen primer and paint.
- Buying Pre-made Doors: This is often the quickest route. You buy doors made to your exact custom sizes (or standard sizes if you built standard boxes). You must decide on the style (Shaker, slab, in-frame).
- Material Match: If you built solid wood carcasses, you might choose solid wood or veneered doors to match.
Preparing Doors for Hanging
Doors need precise drilling for hinges. Most modern hinges are concealed (Euro-style hinges).
- Hole Location: The cup of the hinge sits in a large hole drilled into the back of the door. This hole is usually 35mm in diameter.
- Positioning: Measure carefully. The hole is typically drilled about 37mm from the edge of the door and 40mm–60mm from the top/bottom edge, depending on the hinge type. A drilling jig makes this repeatable and accurate.
Hanging the Doors
- Attach the hinge plates to the inside of the carcass sides.
- Attach the hinge arms to the doors.
- Clip or screw the doors onto the plates.
- Adjust the screws on the hinge arms. These screws let you move the door up/down, left/right, and in/out to ensure all gaps are even and the doors line up perfectly.
Advanced Techniques for Building Fitted Kitchens
When building fitted kitchens, especially in older homes, you need advanced skills to make things look seamless.
Creating Plinths and Kickboards
The plinth (or kickboard) covers the space where the fitting kitchen unit legs are located at the bottom front of the cabinets.
- Cut the plinth material (usually MDF or matching door material) to the length of the cabinet run.
- Attach clips to the base of the carcass. These clips hold the plinth away from the floor slightly, allowing for cleaning access and adjustment.
- Ensure the plinth is cut to follow the line of the floor if the floor is uneven.
Building Bulkheads and Wall Covers
If your wall or ceiling isn’t straight, you may need filler pieces called bulkheads or “scribing pieces.”
- Wall Scribe: A thin strip of material glued or screwed to the side of the end cabinet. You hold it against the wall and trace the exact contour of the wall onto the strip. Then, you use a jigsaw to carefully cut along that line. This makes the final cabinet fit snugly against an imperfect wall.
- Ceiling Bulkhead: Used above wall units if the ceiling slopes or is uneven. This panel runs above the cabinets and is finished to hide the gap.
Essential Tools for Making Your Own Units
You cannot build quality units without the right gear. While you don’t need a massive industrial workshop, some power tools are essential for precision work when making bespoke kitchen units.
| Tool | Purpose | Why It’s Needed |
|---|---|---|
| Circular Saw with Guide Rail | Cutting large panels straight | Essential for accurate, long, straight cuts on carcass panels. |
| Router | Edging, trimming, and cutting hinge cups | Creates professional-looking edges and precise hinge holes. |
| Clamps (Lots of them!) | Holding pieces while glue dries or screws go in | Ensures strong joints and keeps everything square during assembly. |
| Biscuit Joiner or Doweling Jig | Aligning panels for strong joints | Helps match pieces up perfectly before screwing them together. |
| Spirit Levels & Squares | Checking alignment | Crucial for ensuring all cabinets are plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal). |
Finalizing the Installation of Your DIY Kitchen
After assembling base cabinets and installing wall units, the final details make the difference between a homemade look and a professional finish.
Worktop Fitting
This step must wait until all base cabinets are secured, leveled, and joined together.
- Measure the total run required for the worktop.
- Cut the worktop material (laminate, wood, or solid surface) using a template for any curves or hob cutouts.
- Place the worktop onto the leveled cabinets.
- Secure the worktop from underneath by screwing upwards through the cabinet top rails into the underside of the worktop. Do not overtighten, especially with laminate, to allow for minor expansion.
- Join sections of the worktop using the correct connector bolts or specialized adhesive for a seamless look.
Appliance Integration
If you are installing an integrated dishwasher or fridge, ensure the carcass space allows for ventilation and necessary pipework before you secure the boxes permanently. Always follow the appliance manufacturer’s minimum clearance instructions.
Summary of the Process for DIY Kitchen Building
Building your own kitchen is a process of careful execution. Follow these main stages:
- Plan and measure everything precisely.
- Cut all carcass panels accurately.
- Assemble the base units, ensuring square corners and fitting kitchen unit legs.
- Securely fix the wall units to the structure.
- Build or attach your choosing kitchen unit doors and drawer fronts.
- Install worktops and finalize plumbing/electric connections.
This detailed approach to building fitted kitchens ensures you create durable, attractive furniture that looks custom-made because, essentially, it is! Making bespoke kitchen units gives you total control over dimensions and style.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is the simplest way to join carcass panels?
A: For beginners, using strong wood glue combined with Confirmat screws (large, coarse-threaded cabinet screws) driven in from the base or sides is very strong and relatively simple. Biscuit joiners or dowels offer alignment but require more setup time.
Q: Can I use standard kitchen unit doors on my custom-made boxes?
A: Yes, if you build your boxes to standard UK dimensions (e.g., 600mm wide, 570mm deep for base units). If your kitchen cabinet design is non-standard, you will need to order custom-sized doors to match.
Q: How much money can I save by building my own DIY kitchen cupboards?
A: Savings vary widely, but for a medium-sized kitchen, labor costs for installation and assembly can represent 30% to 50% of the total fitted kitchen price, depending on how much you buy pre-made versus building from raw materials.
Q: Should I build drawers or use pre-made drawer inserts?
A: For quality and speed, many people prefer buying metal drawer runners and boxes (like tandem boxes). You still need to build the carcass to fit these specific drawer sizes. Building your own wooden drawers is possible but requires very precise cutting for smooth operation.
Q: How important is squaring the carcass during assembly?
A: It is extremely important. An un-squared carcass will result in doors that don’t hang straight, drawers that stick, and worktops that won’t sit flat. Always check diagonals and use a large builder’s square before fully tightening any joints during kitchen carcass construction.