Can I refinish my kitchen cabinets myself? Yes, you absolutely can refinish your kitchen cabinets yourself. This cabinet refinishing guide will walk you through every step needed to transform your tired kitchen without hiring a professional crew.
Refinishing your cabinets is a fantastic way to update your kitchen look. It saves money compared to buying new ones. This process takes time and effort. But the reward is a fresh, beautiful kitchen space. We will cover everything from prep work to the final coat of paint.
Deciphering Cabinet Refinishing Options
Before starting, think about what you want for your cabinets. Do you want a new color? Do you want to keep the wood look? Your choice affects the steps you take.
Painting vs. Staining vs. Reglazing
Many homeowners look at different ways to refresh their wood. Here are the main options:
| Option | Best For | Key Feature | Time Commitment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Painting | Drastic color change | Hides wood grain | High |
| Staining | Enhancing natural wood | Preserves wood look | Medium |
| Reglazing kitchen cabinets | Minor surface touch-ups | Adds shine/new topcoat | Low to Medium |
This guide focuses mostly on painting, as it is the most common DIY cabinet resurfacing project.
Phase 1: Planning Your Project and Gathering Supplies
Good planning stops problems later. Think about colors and materials first. This step is crucial for success.
Choosing Your Look: Kitchen Cabinet Painting Ideas
What style are you aiming for? Modern, farmhouse, or classic?
- White Cabinets: Bright, clean, and timeless. They make small kitchens look bigger.
- Gray or Navy Cabinets: Offer a modern, rich look. Great for contrast.
- Two-Tone Kitchens: Paint the lower cabinets one color and the uppers another. This adds visual interest.
When picking paint, remember quality matters greatly. You need a durable finish that resists daily kitchen wear and tear.
Essential Tools and Materials Checklist
Gather everything before you begin. Having supplies ready makes the work smooth.
- Cleaning Supplies: TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) substitute or strong degreaser, mild soap, rags.
- Sanding Tools: Orbital sander, sanding sponges, various grits of sandpaper (80, 120, 220 grit).
- Paint & Primer: High-quality bonding primer, best paint for kitchen cabinets (usually a water-based enamel or Urethane Alkyd).
- Applicators: High-density foam rollers, angled sash brush, paint sprayer (optional but recommended).
- Prep & Protection: Painter’s tape, plastic sheeting, drop cloths, putty knife, wood filler.
- For Stripping (If needed): Chemical stripper, scraper, steel wool (if refinishing wood cabinets without sanding is not fully possible).
Phase 2: Prep Work – The Key to Longevity
This is the least fun part, but it is the most important. Poor prep leads to peeling paint quickly. This section covers how to prep cabinets for paint.
Removing Doors and Hardware
- Label Everything: Use numbered sticky notes on each door, drawer front, and cabinet box section. Draw a simple diagram if needed. This prevents mixing things up later.
- Remove Doors and Drawers: Use a screwdriver to take off hinges. Keep all screws in labeled bags taped to the corresponding door or drawer.
- Take Off Hardware: Unscrew all knobs and pulls. Keep them safe. If you plan on a cabinet hardware replacement, set the old pieces aside or recycle them.
Deep Cleaning for Adhesion
Kitchen cabinets accumulate grease and grime. Paint will not stick to grease.
- Mix Your Cleaner: Use a strong degreaser, like TSP substitute mixed with warm water.
- Scrub Thoroughly: Wipe down every surface—fronts, edges, and even the backs of the doors. Use a soft scrub pad for tough spots.
- Rinse Well: Wipe all surfaces again with clean water to remove any cleaner residue.
- Dry Completely: Let the cabinets air dry fully. Use fans to speed this up if needed.
Dealing with Old Finishes: Stripping vs. Sanding
If your cabinets have a very glossy, thick, or damaged finish, you might need more than just light sanding.
Cabinet Stripping Techniques
If the existing finish is failing (flaking, bubbling), stripping might be necessary.
- Chemical Stripping: Apply a commercial stripper safely. Wear gloves, eye protection, and work in a very well-ventilated area. Let the stripper work as directed. Scrape off the softened finish gently with a plastic scraper. Follow up with mineral spirits to neutralize the stripper residue.
- Heat Stripping: A heat gun can soften old paint. Keep the heat moving to avoid scorching the wood. This is great for thick layers but requires care.
If the finish is mostly intact but just dull, light sanding is usually enough. For those hoping for refinishing wood cabinets without sanding entirely, you must use a chemical degreaser and a liquid deglosser/prep solution. This works best on very old, thin varnish finishes.
Surface Abrasion: Sanding Properly
Sanding creates the “tooth” the primer needs to grab onto the wood or laminate.
- Start with Coarse Grit (If needed): If the surface is still glossy after cleaning, use 120-grit sandpaper. Lightly scuff the entire surface. You are not trying to remove all the wood, just dull the shine.
- Move to Medium Grit: Switch to 180-grit or 220-grit sandpaper. Sand all surfaces again until they feel smooth but not slick.
- Fix Imperfections: Fill any deep scratches, dents, or holes with wood filler. Let it dry completely. Sand the repaired spots flush using 220-grit paper.
- Dust Removal: This step is critical. Use a shop vacuum with a brush attachment first. Then, wipe every surface down with a tack cloth or a rag lightly dampened with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol. Do not skip the tack cloth step!
Phase 3: Priming for the Perfect Base Coat
Primer seals the wood, blocks stains, and helps the topcoat adhere strongly. Do not use standard wall primer. You need a dedicated cabinet bonding primer.
Selecting the Right Primer
The best paint for kitchen cabinets requires the right partner.
- Oil-Based Primers: Excellent adhesion, great for sealing knots in wood, but they have strong fumes and dry slowly.
- Shellac-Based Primers: Fantastic for blocking stains (especially tannins bleeding from wood like oak or cherry). Dries very fast.
- Water-Based Bonding Primers (Acrylic/Alkyd Blends): Modern favorites. Low odor, fast drying, and excellent durability. These are often the easiest for DIYers.
Applying the Primer
- Ventilation: Ensure your work area has good airflow. Open windows and use fans pointing out of the room.
- Use a Sprayer (If Possible): For the smoothest finish, use an airless or HVLP sprayer for the primer. Follow the manufacturer’s thinning directions carefully.
- Brushing/Rolling: If spraying isn’t an option, apply primer thinly with a high-quality, short-nap roller (1/4 inch nap). Use an angled brush for corners and edges. Work in thin, even coats.
- First Coat Application: Apply primer to the edges and crevices first. Then roll the large flat areas. Do not overwork the paint; stop rolling once the surface looks wet and even.
- Drying and Sanding: Let the primer dry fully (check can instructions). Once dry, lightly sand the entire surface with 320-grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge. This knocks down any dust nibs or brush marks. Clean off all dust with a tack cloth.
Phase 4: Applying the Topcoat Color
This is where your vision comes to life. Patience during application ensures a professional-looking result.
Selecting the Best Paint for Kitchen Cabinets
Standard wall paint will not hold up to daily scrubbing and moisture. You need durable paint.
- Alkyd-Modified Acrylic (Waterborne Alkyd): Many professionals prefer these now. They offer the hardness of oil paint but clean up easily with water. They level out well, leaving fewer brush marks.
- 100% Acrylic Enamel: Very durable, good color retention, and easier to apply than alkyds. Look for formulas specifically marketed for cabinetry or trim.
Avoid standard latex paint, as it often stays too soft, leading to easy chipping.
Painting Technique for Smooth Results
Apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat. Thin coats dry faster and resist drips better.
- First Color Coat: Apply the first coat exactly as you did the primer—edges first, then large flat areas using a high-quality roller or sprayer.
- Curing Time: Allow the first coat to dry completely. Depending on humidity, this can take 4 to 24 hours. Don’t rush this.
- Light Sanding: After the first coat is dry, lightly sand everything with 320-grit paper or a fine sanding sponge. Remove dust immediately.
- Second Color Coat: Apply the second coat, focusing on even coverage. Most cabinet jobs require two coats, but dark colors over light colors might need three.
- Third Coat (If Needed): Repeat sanding and application if the coverage is uneven.
The Importance of Cure Time
Even when the paint feels dry to the touch, it is not fully hard. Cabinet paint needs time to cure (harden completely). This can take 14 to 30 days. Be extremely gentle with the cabinets during this time. Avoid heavy cleaning or slamming drawers for at least a week after reassembly.
Phase 5: Reassembly and Finishing Touches
Once the paint has cured enough to handle, it is time to put the kitchen back together.
Cabinet Hardware Replacement
If you chose new hardware, now is the time to install it.
- Drill Holes (If Necessary): If your new pulls do not match the old holes, use a template to mark the new positions precisely. Drill carefully from the outside of the door to prevent the wood from splintering on the front face.
- Install Pulls: Screw the new knobs and pulls onto the doors and drawer fronts.
- Rehanging Doors: Reattach the hinges. This is where your labeling from Phase 1 pays off. Adjust hinges as needed so the doors line up perfectly.
Door Adjustment Tips
Cabinet doors often look misaligned after they are taken down and put back up. Most modern hinges have adjustment screws:
- In/Out Adjustment: Moves the door closer to or further from the cabinet frame.
- Side-to-Side Adjustment: Helps line up the gap between doors.
- Up/Down Adjustment: Uses the mounting plate screw to raise or lower the door.
Take your time. A few minutes spent adjusting hinges makes the finished kitchen look professional.
Alternative Methods: Reglazing Kitchen Cabinets and More
Sometimes a full paint job is overkill. If your cabinets are solid wood and you just want a refresh, consider these options.
Reglazing Kitchen Cabinets
Reglazing is often confused with painting. True reglazing usually involves professionally spraying a durable, often epoxy-based, coating onto existing cabinets. This is less intensive than stripping and painting because you skip the heavy sanding and multiple primer coats. However, DIY kits are available, often relying on tougher clear topcoats or specialized liquid enamel coatings.
DIY Reglazing Consideration: If you are just trying to refresh a dull, clear-coated wood finish, using a high-quality liquid deglosser followed by a clear, durable polyurethane topcoat (satin or semi-gloss) can work. This is sometimes called refinishing wood cabinets without sanding the finish away entirely, but it only works if the original finish is sound.
Comparing Costs: Cabinet Refinishing Cost Comparison
To help justify the DIY effort, compare the costs:
| Method | Estimated Material Cost (Average Kitchen) | Labor Cost (Professional) | DIY Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Painting/Refinishing | \$300 – \$700 (High-quality paint) | \$0 | High |
| Professional Cabinet Painting | \$3,000 – \$7,000+ | Included | Low |
| Replacing Cabinets | \$5,000 – \$15,000+ | Installation Fees | Very High |
The savings are significant when you handle the labor yourself.
Maintaining Your Newly Refinished Cabinets
Your hard work deserves proper care. Long-term maintenance keeps your investment looking new.
- Gentle Cleaning: Use a soft cloth and mild dish soap diluted in water. Avoid abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, or strong chemical solvents.
- Wipe Spills Quickly: Especially acidic spills like tomato sauce or lemon juice should be wiped up right away to prevent staining or etching the finish.
- Avoid Steam: Try not to let hot, steamy water sit directly against the cabinet doors near the sink area for long periods, as moisture can penetrate the finish over time.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: How long does the entire cabinet refinishing process take?
A: For a typical DIY job involving stripping, priming, and two topcoats, expect the process to take 5 to 10 full days. Most of this time is waiting for coats to dry or cure between steps.
Q: Should I remove the cabinet doors or paint them while attached?
A: Always remove the doors and drawers. Painting them attached leads to messy drips on the cabinet frames, uneven coverage on the back of the doors, and an unprofessional look overall.
Q: What is the hardest part of DIY cabinet painting?
A: The hardest part is usually the preparation (cleaning and sanding) and being patient during the drying times between coats. Rushing these steps causes the most failures.
Q: Can I use chalk paint on kitchen cabinets?
A: While chalk paint is popular, it is usually too soft for a high-traffic area like a kitchen. Chalk paint requires heavy waxing or a very durable topcoat (like polyurethane) to achieve the necessary durability. Using a dedicated cabinet paint or an alkyd/acrylic hybrid is safer for longevity.
Q: What grit sandpaper should I use for the final coat touch-up?
A: For light sanding between color coats, use 320-grit sandpaper or a fine sanding sponge. Never use anything coarser than 320-grit after the first color coat, as you risk scratching through to the primer or bare wood.