Yes, you can remove an old kitchen faucet yourself with basic tools and a little patience. This guide walks you through the entire process, making it simple to uninstall your old fixture so you can replace old kitchen faucet with a new one.
Gathering Your Essential Tools for Faucet Removal
Before you start the actual work, you must gather all the necessary gear. Having the right tools for faucet removal ready saves time and stops frustrating delays under the sink. You do not need a full professional kit, but a few key items make the job much easier.
Must-Have Tools Checklist
| Tool | Purpose | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Basin Wrench | Loosens nuts in tight spaces | This specialized tool is crucial for reaching up behind the sink. |
| Adjustable Wrench or Pliers | Holding supply lines and nuts | Use these for gripping and turning various fittings. |
| Safety Glasses | Protecting your eyes | Debris, rust flakes, and drips are common when working below. |
| Bucket and Rags | Catching spilled water | Water trapped in the lines will drip out. |
| Utility Knife or Putty Knife | Scraping old caulk/putty | Needed to separate the faucet base from the countertop. |
| Penetrating Oil (e.g., WD-40) | Loosening stuck or rusted hardware | Apply this if nuts seem seized. |
| Flashlight or Headlamp | Seeing clearly under the sink | It is usually very dark under the cabinet. |
Step 1: Preparation and Safety First
Good preparation prevents messes and keeps you safe. Think of this phase as setting the stage for the main act: removing the old fixture.
Shutting Off the Water Supply
The very first and most important step is to disconnect water supply to sink. If you skip this, you will have a major flood when you disconnect the lines.
- Locate the Shutoff Valves: Look under the sink cabinet. You should see two small valves coming out of the wall or floor—one for hot water (usually red or marked ‘H’) and one for cold water (usually blue or marked ‘C’).
- Turn Off the Water: Turn both valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them if they are stiff, but make sure they are firmly closed.
- Test the Faucet: Turn on the existing faucet handles above the sink. A little water might dribble out, which is normal as it empties the lines. If a steady stream of water flows, the valves are not fully closed. Go back and try to close them tighter.
Clearing the Workspace
You must work in a confined space, so make everything accessible.
- Empty everything from under the sink cabinet. Move out cleaning supplies, trash cans, and anything else blocking your view or movement.
- Lay down old towels or a plastic tarp on the cabinet floor to absorb drips and make cleanup easier.
Step 2: Detaching the Water Supply Lines
Next, we focus on detaching hot and cold water lines. These connect the faucet base to the shutoff valves you just closed.
Disconnecting the Lines
- Identify the Connection Points: Look where the flexible supply tubes (lines) from the faucet meet the rigid pipes coming from the wall/floor.
- Use Your Wrench: Hold the main shutoff valve pipe steady with one hand or pliers. Use your adjustable wrench to loosen the coupling nut connecting the supply line to the valve. Turn counter-clockwise.
- Tip: Be ready for a small amount of water spillage here, even if you drained the lines well. Have your bucket positioned directly underneath.
- Repeat for Both Lines: Do the same for the hot and cold water lines. Once loose, you can gently move these flexible lines out of the way. They are often already disconnected from the faucet end if you are working on the old unit you plan to toss. If not, loosen the connections at the base of the faucet assembly.
Step 3: Removing Under Sink Plumbing and Hardware
This section deals with the mechanics holding the faucet firmly in place against the sink or countertop. This is where the basin wrench becomes your best friend as you remove under sink plumbing related to the faucet mounting.
Dealing with Corroded Faucet Nuts and Mounting Hardware
If your faucet has been in place for years, expect corrosion. Dealing with corroded faucet nuts is often the hardest part of the job.
- Locate Mounting Nuts: Look up underneath the sink basin. You will see one or more large nuts (sometimes screws or mounting brackets) that secure the faucet shank(s) to the countertop or sink deck.
- Apply Penetrating Oil (If Needed): If the nuts refuse to budge, spray penetrating oil liberally onto the threads and let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes. This gives the oil time to seep in and break down rust.
- Using the Basin Wrench: This tool has a pivoting jaw perfect for gripping these nuts in tight spots. Position the jaw around the nut and apply firm, steady pressure counter-clockwise to loosen it.
- Alternative for Extreme Rust: If the nuts are completely rusted solid and the basin wrench won’t turn them, you might need a small hacksaw blade (carefully!) or a rotary tool with a cutting disc to cut through the metal mounting hardware. Caution: Be extremely careful not to cut into the sink or countertop.
Removing Spray Hoses or Accessories
If your old faucet has a separate sprayer or soap dispenser, you must disconnect those lines too.
- These usually attach to the main faucet body with a simple threaded connection or a quick-release clip. Disconnect them and pull the hose assembly up and out of the hole.
Step 4: Separating Faucet from Countertop
Once all the plumbing connections and mounting nuts are free, the final physical barrier is the seal holding the faucet base to the sink deck. This is the steps to take out old faucet where you address the sealant.
Breaking the Seal
Faucets are typically sealed using plumber’s putty or silicone caulk to prevent water from leaking under the sink rim.
- Inspect the Seal: Look closely at where the base of the faucet meets the sink or countertop surface from above.
- Cut the Caulk: Use your utility knife or putty knife to carefully slice through the caulk or putty line all the way around the faucet base. Work slowly to avoid scratching the countertop surface.
- Gently Lift: Once the seal is broken, gently try to lift the faucet straight up and out of the hole. You may need to wiggle it slightly. Do not yank hard, as you might damage the sink if the seal is only partially broken.
Dealing with Stubborn Residue
If the faucet lifts but leaves behind stubborn putty or old adhesive:
- Use a plastic scraper or a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or a dedicated adhesive remover to clean the area thoroughly. A clean surface is vital before installing the new fixture.
Step 5: Finalizing the Removal and Inspection
You have now successfully completed the bulk of the work required to uninstall kitchen tap. Take a moment to inspect the area.
Examining the Sink Holes
- Check for Damage: Look at the sink deck or countertop holes where the faucet was mounted. Check for cracks, pitting, or excessive rust staining.
- Assess for Leaks: Since the water was shut off, check around the shutoff valves you used. Ensure they didn’t start leaking when you turned them off or tested the lines. If you notice drips, gently tighten the valve slightly or consider replacing that shutoff valve if it’s very old.
Salvaging the Old Faucet Fixture
For some people, the old faucet might be a high-quality brass fixture that they wish to keep or try to repair later. If you intend to salvaging old faucet fixture, handle it carefully.
- Rinse off any visible grime immediately.
- Store all disassembled parts (escutcheons, gaskets, nuts) in a labeled bag so you don’t lose small pieces if you ever need to reinstall it or use parts for repair.
Troubleshooting Common Removal Issues
It is rare for a plumbing job to go perfectly smoothly, especially with old fixtures. Here are ways to handle typical snags encountered when you steps to take out old faucet.
Problem 1: The Shutoff Valves Won’t Turn
If the valves under the sink are seized or corroded, forcing them can cause them to break, leading to a major leak.
- The Fix: If they absolutely won’t turn, you must shut off the main water supply to your entire house first. This is usually located near your water meter or where the water enters the home. Once the main water is off, you can try to work the stuck valve more aggressively or use a pipe cutter to cut the line leading to the valve if necessary for removal.
Problem 2: The Supply Lines Are Crimped or Stuck
Sometimes the flexible supply lines themselves get old, brittle, or chemically fused to the metal fittings.
- The Fix: If you are planning to replace old kitchen faucet, you do not need to save the old supply lines. If the nut connecting the line to the valve won’t turn, you can often cut the supply line itself with a small pair of tubing cutters or strong wire cutters, then use pliers to twist the remaining fitting off the valve stem.
Problem 3: The Faucet is Stuck to a Granite or Solid Surface Countertop
Modern high-end faucets often use strong epoxy or very stiff plumber’s putty on solid surface countertops, making separation difficult.
- The Fix: Heat can sometimes soften old adhesives or putty. Use a hairdryer directed at the base of the faucet for several minutes. This gentle heat can soften the seal enough for the putty knife to work its way underneath and break the bond without damaging the stone.
Post-Removal Cleanup and Preparation for New Installation
Once the old faucet is completely gone, you have a clean slate. This cleanup is key for a successful installation of your new fixture.
Scrape Away All Sealant
Use your putty knife or a razor blade (used very carefully at a shallow angle) to remove every speck of old plumber’s putty or silicone caulk residue from the sink deck or countertop. A clean, dry surface ensures the new faucet gasket or sealant adheres properly, preventing future leaks.
Inspecting the Mounting Holes
Ensure no debris or mineral deposits are left inside the mounting holes. Run a damp cloth inside to wipe them clean. This ensures the new mounting hardware sits flat and tight against the surface.
Final Review of the Process
The entire task of removing the old fixture can be broken down into simple, manageable phases:
- Safety First: Turn off the water supply under the sink.
- Drainage: Open the old faucet to release trapped water.
- Supply Disconnect: Use wrenches to detaching hot and cold water lines.
- Hardware Removal: Use the basin wrench to loosen and remove mounting nuts holding the unit up. Address corrosion with oil if needed.
- Seal Break: Cut the caulk/putty seal holding the base to the sink.
- Extraction: Lift the old faucet assembly free from the top.
- Cleanup: Scrape off all old sealant residue.
This detailed process ensures you have successfully completed the initial, often most challenging, part of your plumbing upgrade. Now you are perfectly set up to install your brand-new fixture.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How long does it usually take to remove an old kitchen faucet?
If the hardware isn’t heavily corroded, removing an old kitchen faucet usually takes an experienced DIYer about 30 minutes to an hour. For very old, seized fixtures, expect to spend 1.5 to 3 hours, mostly due to waiting for penetrating oil to work or wrestling with stuck nuts.
Do I need to turn off the main water supply to my house?
Only if the shutoff valves located directly under your sink do not work or if you cannot find them. If the local valves shut off the water completely and hold it off, you do not need to turn off the entire house supply.
Can I use regular pliers instead of a basin wrench?
You can attempt it, but it is very difficult. A basin wrench is specifically designed to reach up and grip the large, deep nuts that secure faucets in tight spaces behind the sink basin. Regular pliers usually lack the reach or the necessary grip angle.
What should I do if I break a supply line while disconnecting it?
If you break a supply line or the fitting attached to the shutoff valve, immediately turn off the main water supply to the house. Since you are planning to replace old kitchen faucet, you will need new supply lines anyway. You can cap the open valve threads temporarily until you can properly install the new faucet and lines.
Is plumber’s putty or silicone better for sealing the new faucet?
For most standard installations, plumber’s putty is traditional and effective for sealing the base plate of the faucet to the sink. However, if you have a natural stone countertop (like granite or marble), silicone caulk is generally recommended because plumber’s putty can sometimes leach oils that stain porous stone over time.