How To Repaint A Kitchen Cabinet: Step-by-Step

Can I repaint my kitchen cabinets? Yes, you absolutely can repaint your kitchen cabinets! Painting kitchen cabinets DIY is a fantastic, cost-effective way to completely transform your kitchen’s look. This complete guide will walk you through every step to achieve a professional, long-lasting finish when updating kitchen cabinets with paint.

Why Repaint Your Kitchen Cabinets?

Many homeowners consider a full cabinet replacement when they tire of their kitchen style. However, repainting offers huge benefits. It saves money compared to buying new cabinets. It also reduces waste going to the landfill. A fresh coat of paint makes old cabinets look brand new. You get a custom look without the high price tag. Good cabinet refinishing tips ensure the result looks great for years.

Phase 1: Planning Your Cabinet Painting Project

Good planning makes the whole project smoother. Do not rush this first part. Thinking things through saves time later.

Choosing Your Color and Finish

The color choice sets the tone for your whole kitchen. Think about your countertops, flooring, and wall color. Light colors make a small kitchen feel bigger. Dark colors add drama and depth.

Deciding on the finish is just as key. This affects how the paint looks and how well it holds up.

Finish Type	Sheen Level	Durability	Appearance Notes
Matte/Flat	Very Low	Lowest	Hides imperfections well. Hardest to clean.
Eggshell/Satin	Medium	Good	A slight glow. Easy to wipe down. Popular choice.
Semi-Gloss	High	Very Good	More shine. Shows small flaws more easily.
High-Gloss	Highest	Excellent	Very durable and wipeable. Can look too shiny for some.

For kitchens, we need a durable kitchen cabinet finish. Because of grease, spills, and constant touching, a satin or semi-gloss finish is usually best. They clean up easily.

Selecting the Best Paint for Kitchen Cabinets

What is the best paint for kitchen cabinets? This is often the biggest question. You need paint built for high traffic. Standard wall paint will fail fast.

Look for paints labeled as “cabinet, trim, and door” paint. These are usually alkyd-modified acrylics or high-quality latex formulations. They dry hard and resist chipping. Oil-based paints are very durable but harder to clean up and have strong fumes. Modern waterborne enamels offer near oil-based durability with easier cleanup.

Phase 2: Essential Cabinet Prep Steps

Proper preparation is the secret sauce for any successful paint job. If you skip these cabinet prep steps, your new paint will peel or look rough. This step takes the longest, but it is the most important.

Emptying and Protecting the Area

First, completely clear the kitchen. Take everything out of the cabinets. Remove all items from countertops and appliances you can move.

Protect Floors and Walls: Lay down thick plastic sheeting or canvas drop cloths on the floor. Tape the edges down securely.
Ventilation is Key: Open all windows. Use fans to pull air out of the room. Good airflow helps paint dry evenly and clears fumes.
Tape Off: Use quality painter’s tape. Cover anything you do not want painted—like the inside of the sink, backsplash areas, or appliance fronts.

Removing Doors and Hardware

You must remove the doors and drawers to paint them flat. This helps you get an even coat everywhere.

Label Everything: Use small sticky notes or painter’s tape on the back of each door. Note where it came from (e.g., “Top Left,” “Drawer 3”). This saves huge headaches during reassembly.
Remove Hardware: Unscrew all hinges, handles, and knobs. Keep all screws organized in labeled plastic bags. If you plan on cabinet hardware replacement, set the old pieces aside.

Cleaning the Cabinets Thoroughly

Grease and grime prevent paint from sticking. You must remove every trace of kitchen residue. This is vital for adhesion.

Use a strong degreaser. A mix of warm water and TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) substitute works well. For stubborn grease, use mineral spirits or a commercial degreaser formulated for kitchen surfaces.

Wipe down every surface of the cabinet boxes and doors.
Rinse the surfaces with clean water to remove any cleaner residue.
Let the wood dry completely. Use a fan to speed this up if needed.

Sanding for Adhesion

Sanding creates a surface the primer for kitchen cabinets can grip onto. You are not trying to remove all the old finish, just dull it down.

Start with Medium Grit: Use 120-grit sandpaper to scuff all glossy surfaces. This removes the shine.
Finish with Fine Grit: Follow up with 180 or 220-grit sandpaper. This smooths out the scratches from the first sanding.
Pay Attention to Details: Use sanding sponges or folded sandpaper to get into corners and crevices.
Clean Dust: After sanding, use a tack cloth (a slightly sticky cloth) to wipe away all sanding dust. Dust left behind will ruin your smooth finish.

Repairing Imperfections

Now is the time to fix chips, dents, or deep scratches.

Use wood filler for deeper gouges. Apply it with a putty knife.
Let the filler dry fully.
Sand the filled areas smooth until they blend perfectly with the surrounding cabinet surface.
Wipe away dust again with a tack cloth.

Phase 3: Priming for Success

Priming seals the surface, blocks stains, and gives the topcoat something fantastic to bond to. Never skip primer when painting kitchen cabinets DIY.

Selecting the Right Primer

The best primer for kitchen cabinets depends on the existing finish.

Stained Wood: If you are painting over dark stain, use a stain-blocking primer (like a shellac-based or high-quality oil-based primer). This prevents the stain from bleeding through the new light paint color.
Laminate/Melamine: These slick surfaces need special bonding primers. Look for primers labeled “adhesion promoter” or “for slick surfaces.”
Painted Wood: If the old paint is in good shape, a high-quality acrylic bonding primer is usually fine.

Applying the Primer

Apply primer thinly and evenly. Thick primer coats often drip and dry rough.

Brush and Roll: Use a high-quality angled brush for corners and edges. Use a fine-foam or microfiber roller (1/4 inch nap or less) for flat surfaces.
Follow Directions: Let the primer dry completely according to the can’s instructions.
Light Sanding (Optional but Recommended): Once dry, very lightly sand the primed surface with 220-grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge. This knocks down any little fuzzies or dust nibs that settled in the wet primer. Wipe clean with a tack cloth.

Phase 4: Applying the Topcoat Color

This is the fun part! Taking your time here ensures you achieve a smooth cabinet paint finish.

Technique: Brushing vs. Spraying

You have two main methods for applying color:

Brushing and Rolling: This is accessible for DIYers. The key is using high-quality synthetic brushes (for latex paint) and foam rollers. Use thin coats. Do not overwork the paint. Let the paint flow out.
Spraying: Spraying gives the smoothest, most professional result. However, it requires good ventilation, spray equipment (HVLP sprayer recommended), and practice. If you choose to spray, you must thin the paint exactly as the manufacturer directs.

The Importance of Thin Coats

Thin coats build color better than thick ones. Thick coats sag, take forever to dry, and chip easily.

Apply the first coat very lightly. Let it dry fully. Check the can for recoat times—usually 2–4 hours for good cabinet paint.
Sand very lightly between coats (320-grit or higher, or a fine sanding sponge). This is crucial for achieving a smooth cabinet paint finish. Wipe off dust.
Apply the second coat, similar to the first.
Most cabinets need three coats for deep, even color, especially if you changed from a dark color to a light one.

A Step-by-Step Painting Flow

Follow this order for the best workflow:

Paint the Cabinet Boxes: Start with the inside surfaces, then the outer sides, and finally the fronts of the cabinet boxes while the doors are off. Work top to bottom.
Paint the Doors: Lay doors flat on clean sawhorses covered with plastic or cardboard. Paint the inside edges first. Then flip and paint the main face. Let them dry completely before flipping again to paint the back side.
Drying Time: Give the final coat plenty of time to cure. Even if it feels dry to the touch in a few hours, it needs days to harden fully. Avoid touching or bumping the doors for at least 48–72 hours.

Phase 5: Reassembly and Finishing Touches

Once the paint is cured, it is time to put it all back together.

Reinstalling Doors and Drawers

Using the labels you made earlier, carefully reattach the doors and drawers to their original spots.

Align the hinges carefully.
Start with the top hinge first, loosely attaching it.
Once all hinges are on, check alignment. Adjust the hinge screws as needed to ensure doors hang straight and close without rubbing. This often requires small adjustments to the hinge screws.

Cabinet Hardware Replacement

If you opted for cabinet hardware replacement, now is the perfect time to install the new knobs and pulls.

If you are using the old screw holes, simply screw the new hardware on.
If you drilled new holes, measure twice! Use a template if your hardware kit provides one.

Pro Tip: If you are keeping the original holes but installing larger hardware, you can fill the old holes with wood filler, sand them smooth, and then drill new holes precisely where you need them for the new hardware.

Curing Time: The Final Wait

This step separates the pros from the amateurs. While the paint may look dry in a day, it takes time to reach its maximum hardness. This is called curing.

For the durable kitchen cabinet finish you want, avoid heavy use for at least a week. Keep cabinets slightly ajar for the first few days if possible to help air circulate around all edges.

Advanced Cabinet Refinishing Tips for Perfectionists

If you want truly show-stopping results, here are some professional cabinet refinishing tips often overlooked by beginners:

Temperature Control: Paint adheres and levels best in moderate temperatures (usually 65°F to 80°F) with low humidity. Avoid painting if the temperature is expected to drop sharply after you finish.
Napkin Rolling Technique: When rolling, apply paint, then immediately go over it lightly with a dry, clean foam roller. This acts like a very light squeegee, removing tiny bubbles and smoothing the surface before it sets.
Catalyst Paints: Some high-end paints (often two-part epoxies or catalyzed lacquers) offer unmatched durability but require mixing in a catalyst just before use. These are advanced products best used by those comfortable with fast-drying materials.

Why Choose Paint Over Staining for Updating Kitchen Cabinets with Paint?

Many wood cabinets start life stained. Why switch to paint?

Color Change: If the wood underneath is damaged, blotchy, or just an undesirable color (like orangey oak), staining will not fix it. Paint covers imperfections completely.
Modernization: Stains tend to look traditional or rustic. Paint offers access to modern, clean aesthetics like crisp white, deep navy, or soft gray.
Consistency: Achieving a uniform color on wood with varying grain patterns (like maple vs. oak) is hard with stain. Paint ensures every door looks exactly the same color.

FAQ Section

Q: How long does it take to repaint kitchen cabinets?
A: For an average-sized kitchen (15–20 doors), expect the project to take 4 to 7 days. Most of this time is drying and curing between coats, not active work time.

Q: Can I skip sanding?
A: No. Sanding creates the necessary ‘tooth’ for the primer and paint to stick properly. Skipping sanding almost guarantees peeling paint later.

Q: What should I use for cleaning greasy cabinets?
A: Use TSP substitute mixed with hot water, or a strong kitchen degreaser. Ensure you rinse thoroughly afterward.

Q: Should I remove the cabinet doors or paint them while attached?
A: Always remove the doors and drawers. Painting them attached results in drips, inconsistent coverage, and visible brush strokes on the sides where the door meets the box.

Q: Is spray painting worth the effort for a beginner?
A: If you can rent or borrow a basic HVLP sprayer and practice on scrap wood first, spraying yields the best results. If you are new to painting tools, rolling and brushing with very thin coats can still look great if you prioritize sanding between layers.