What is the most common cause of a leaky kitchen faucet? The most common reason a kitchen faucet leaks is due to worn-out internal parts, often seals, O-rings, or washers that have degraded over time due to constant water pressure and use.
Repairing a leaky kitchen faucet is a common home task. Many people can fix dripping faucet issues without calling a plumber. This faucet repair guide will walk you through the steps. We will help you stop faucet leak under sink issues and fix leaks coming from the spout. We aim to make your DIY faucet repair tips successful. Let’s get started on troubleshooting leaky kitchen faucet problems.
Preparation: Getting Ready for Faucet Fixes
Before you begin any repair work, good preparation is key. Taking the time to prepare saves frustration later. You need the right gear and a safe workspace.
Essential Tools for Faucet Repair
Having the correct tools for faucet repair makes the job much simpler. You do not need an entire workshop. A few basic items will cover most jobs.
| Tool Name | Primary Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Adjustable Wrench | Loosening or tightening nuts and packing nuts. | Essential for gripping various sizes. |
| Screwdriver Set (Flathead and Phillips) | Removing handle screws and decorative caps. | Make sure you have both types. |
| Pliers (Needle-nose and Groove-joint) | Holding small parts or gripping stubborn pieces. | Needle-nose helps in tight spots. |
| Hex Keys (Allen Wrenches) | Removing handles on certain modern faucets. | Often hidden under a set screw. |
| Utility Knife or Small Pick | Removing old seals or prying off caps. | Be gentle to avoid scratching metal. |
| Replacement Parts Kit | Washers, O-rings, springs, or cartridges. | Have these ready before disassembly. |
| White Vinegar and Cloth | Cleaning mineral buildup. | Good for removing hard water deposits. |
| Plumber’s Grease (Silicone Grease) | Lubricating new O-rings and threads. | Keeps parts moving smoothly and seals well. |
Safety First: Turning Off the Water Supply
The very first step in any plumbing fix is stopping the water flow. You cannot safely work on a faucet while water is running.
- Locate Shut-Off Valves: Look under your kitchen sink. You should see two small valves, usually one for hot water and one for cold water.
- Turn Valves Off: Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them too hard.
- Test for Water Flow: Turn the faucet handles on fully (both hot and cold). A little residual water might drain out, but no new water should flow. If water keeps running, you must shut off the main water supply to your house.
- Protect the Drain: Place a stopper or a rag in the sink drain. This stops small screws or parts from falling down the pipe.
Deciphering Faucet Types: Knowing What You Have
Faucets are not all the same inside. The repair method depends on the type of faucet installed. Common types include cartridge, ball, disc, and compression faucets. Knowing your type helps you know what internal parts to expect.
Compression Faucets (Older Style)
Compression faucets are the oldest type. They use rubber washers that press down to stop water flow.
- Leak Source: Usually a worn-out seat washer.
- Repair Focus: Replace worn faucet washer.
Cartridge Faucets (Very Common)
These use a movable cartridge to control flow and temperature. They feel smooth when you turn the handle.
- Leak Source: Cracked or worn cartridge.
- Repair Focus: Cartridge replacement kitchen faucet is often the fix.
Ball Faucets (Single Handle, Swiveling Base)
These use a metal or plastic ball inside to control water flow. They have many small parts.
- Leak Source: Worn inlet seals or springs.
Ceramic Disc Faucets (Modern, Durable)
These use two ceramic discs that slide against each other. They are very reliable.
- Leak Source: Rare, but usually damaged seals or a cracked disc.
Step-by-Step Repair: Fixing a Leaking Spout
A leak right from the spout (the tip of the faucet) usually points to a problem with the main seals inside the faucet body. We will start with the most common fix: replacing washers or the cartridge.
Phase 1: Removing the Faucet Handle
To access the internal parts, you must first remove the handle(s).
- Find the Screw: Look for a decorative cap on the top or side of the handle. Use a small pick or flathead screwdriver to gently pry this cap off.
- Remove the Set Screw: Beneath the cap, there is often a visible screw. For many modern handles, this is a small Allen screw (hex screw). Use the correct size hex key to loosen and remove this screw.
- Lift the Handle: Once the screw is out, the handle should lift straight up. If it is stuck due to mineral buildup, wiggle it gently. Do not force it too hard.
Phase 2: Exposing the Valve Mechanism
Once the handle is off, you see the inner workings. This part looks different depending on your faucet type.
For Compression Faucets
- Remove the Packing Nut: Use an adjustable wrench to turn the large nut surrounding the stem counter-clockwise. This is called the packing nut.
- Remove the Stem: Once the nut is off, you can pull or unscrew the entire stem assembly out. This stem holds the washer that is causing the leak.
For Cartridge Faucets
- Remove the Retaining Clip or Nut: Cartridges are held in place by a small metal clip or a threaded retaining nut.
- If it’s a clip, use needle-nose pliers to pull the clip straight up. Note its orientation!
- If it’s a nut, use your wrench to unscrew it counter-clockwise.
- Pull Out the Cartridge: Gently pull the cartridge straight up. Sometimes you need to turn it slightly (a quarter turn) to dislodge it from its base.
Phase 3: Replacing Worn Components
This is the core of the faucet repair guide.
Fixing Compression Faucets: Replacing the Washer
If you have an older faucet, this is where you replace worn faucet washer.
- Examine the bottom of the removed stem. There will be a small screw holding a rubber washer in place.
- Use a screwdriver to remove this screw.
- Remove the old, hard, or cracked washer.
- Take the old washer to the hardware store to match the size exactly. Buy a new rubber washer and seat washer if needed.
- Install the new washer, securing it with the screw. Apply a thin coat of plumber’s grease to the new washer.
- Also, check the O-rings around the stem body. If they look cracked, replace those too. This helps fix dripping faucet sounds caused by stem leaks.
Fixing Cartridge Faucets: Cartridge Replacement
For modern faucets, you often perform a full cartridge replacement kitchen faucet.
- Inspect the old cartridge for cracks or mineral buildup.
- Bring the old cartridge to the store for an exact match. Cartridges are highly specific to the brand and model.
- Clean the inside cavity of the faucet body using a soft cloth and white vinegar solution. Remove any debris.
- Insert the new cartridge, making sure it lines up perfectly with the notches or slots in the faucet housing. It must sit flush.
- Secure it with the retaining clip or nut you removed earlier.
Phase 4: Reassembly and Testing
After replacing parts, carefully put everything back together.
- Reinstall the Stem/Cartridge: Put the stem or cartridge back into the faucet body. Tighten the packing nut or retaining nut until snug. Do not overtighten.
- Reattach the Handle: Place the handle back on the stem. Screw in the set screw, and snap the decorative cap back on. If the handle feels loose, you might need to tighten loose faucet handle screws slightly more, but ensure you do not damage the plastic threads.
- Test Slowly: Go back under the sink. Slowly turn the shut-off valves back on (counter-clockwise). Listen for leaks.
- Check Operation: Turn the faucet on and off several times. Check the spout for drips and check around the base of the handle for leaks.
Addressing Leaks Under the Sink and Base Leaks
Sometimes the leak is not coming from the spout. If you notice water pooling under the sink, the problem lies at the base connections or the supply lines. This is crucial for knowing how to stop faucet leak under sink.
Troubleshooting Leaks at the Supply Lines
The lines connecting your faucet to the main water valves can fail.
- Check the connection point where the flexible supply lines meet the faucet body (usually under the sink).
- If they are leaking, try gently tightening the compression nut connecting the hose to the valve stem using a wrench. Turn only a quarter turn at a time.
- If tightening fails, you must replace the entire supply line hose. These are generally inexpensive and easy to swap out after turning the water off completely.
Fixing Leaks Around the Faucet Base (Swivel Leaks)
If water seeps out around where the faucet meets the countertop when you turn the water on, the problem is often the O-rings located near the base of the spout assembly.
- You must remove the entire spout assembly. This usually involves removing the handle and then unscrewing a dome cap or large collar nut at the base of the faucet body.
- Carefully lift the spout body off. You will see O-rings seated in grooves.
- Remove the old O-rings. Use a pick or small screwdriver tip carefully.
- Clean the grooves thoroughly. Apply plumber’s grease to the new O-rings before rolling them into place.
- Reassemble the spout. This lubrication is essential for a good seal and preventing future leaks.
Advanced Repair: Faucet Valve Replacement and Inspection
In some complex cases, especially with older faucets or severe corrosion, the problem may be the valve seat itself, requiring a faucet valve replacement for the entire valve assembly, not just the washer.
Inspecting the Valve Seat (Compression Faucets)
The valve seat is where the washer presses down to stop water. If it is pitted or rough, the new washer won’t seal properly, and the drip will return quickly.
- After removing the stem (Phase 2, Compression Faucets), look down into the faucet body. You will see the brass seat.
- Use a specialized tool called a seat wrench or a seat dresser.
- If the seat is slightly rough, use the seat dresser to smooth the surface gently.
- If the seat is heavily damaged or corroded, you may need to remove and replace the entire valve seat, which requires a specific seat removal tool. This is a more advanced DIY faucet repair tips level task.
Dealing with Specific Single-Handle Faucets
Single-handle faucets (ball, disc, or cartridge) rarely involve seat replacement, as the seal is built into the replaceable unit.
If a new cartridge does not fix the issue, you might have an issue with the housing itself. For many budget faucets, replacing the entire unit is more cost-effective than sourcing specialized internal parts for a complete faucet valve replacement.
Maintenance Tips to Prevent Future Leaks
Prevention is easier than repair. Regular, simple maintenance can extend the life of your faucet significantly.
Regular Cleaning Routine
Hard water leaves mineral deposits (scale) behind. These deposits roughen up internal seals and washers, causing premature wear.
- Wipe down the faucet exterior daily with a soft cloth.
- Once a month, use a solution of half water and half white vinegar on a cloth. Gently rub around the spout and handles to break up initial scale buildup.
Checking for Loose Parts Periodically
It takes just a minute to check if things are tight.
- Every six months, check the tightness of the handle screws. A tighten loose faucet handle check prevents leaks caused by minor movements shaking the set screw loose.
- Check the supply line connections under the sink. A small nudge with a wrench can often prevent a future spray.
Handling Water Pressure
High water pressure stresses all plumbing fixtures. If your home has very high pressure (over 80 psi), consider installing a pressure reducing valve on your main water line. This protects everything, including your faucet seals.
Final Troubleshooting Leaky Kitchen Faucet Scenarios
If you have followed all steps and the faucet still leaks, consider these final points before concluding a full replacement is necessary.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Solution Focus |
|---|---|---|
| Drip from Spout, New Washer Installed | Pitted valve seat (compression faucet). | Seat dressing or full faucet valve replacement. |
| Leak Around Handle Base (Cold Water Only) | Worn O-ring on the cold stem or valve stem packing nut is loose. | Replace O-rings or tighten loose faucet handle assembly nut. |
| Constant Slow Drip After Cartridge Replacement | Improper seating of the new cartridge or debris stuck in the faucet body cavity. | Remove, clean cavity, reinsert cartridge, ensuring proper alignment for cartridge replacement kitchen faucet. |
| Water Runs Slowly, But Faucet Still Drips | Clogged aerator or mineral buildup blocking flow pathways. | Unscrew and clean the aerator at the tip of the spout. |
If you struggle to find the correct internal parts—especially for proprietary or older models—take a picture of the faucet brand name and the old parts you removed to the plumbing supply store. They can often help identify the right components for faucet valve replacement or cartridge swap.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Do I need to drain the pipes before fixing my faucet?
A: Yes. You must shut off the water supply valves under the sink. If those don’t work, you must shut off the main water line to your house. Always drain the remaining water by opening the faucet handles before taking anything apart.
Q2: Can I repair a leaky faucet if I don’t know the brand?
A: It can be tricky, but not impossible. Take clear photos of the entire faucet and all the disassembled parts (like the cartridge or stem) to the hardware store. Many generic parts look similar, but getting the exact fit is vital for long-term success when you replace worn faucet washer or cartridge.
Q3: How long should a faucet repair take?
A: For a simple washer replacement in a compression faucet, an average DIYer might take 30 to 45 minutes. A full cartridge replacement kitchen faucet job usually takes about an hour. If you struggle to remove stuck parts, it might take longer.
Q4: What is plumber’s grease used for?
A: Plumber’s grease (silicone grease) is vital for lubricating O-rings and threads. It prevents friction, makes reassembly easier, and helps create a long-lasting waterproof seal. Never use petroleum jelly, as it breaks down rubber parts.
Q5: How do I know if I need a new cartridge or just new washers?
A: If you have a cartridge faucet and it leaks from the spout, replacing the entire cartridge is the standard fix. Washers are mainly found in older compression-style faucets. If the leak is around the handle, check the O-rings or the packing nut first.
Q6: My faucet handle keeps getting loose even after tightening. What now?
A: If you constantly need to tighten loose faucet handle screws, the issue might be a stripped screw thread inside the handle itself, or the stem post is damaged. If the screw spins without catching, you may need a new handle assembly. If the post is worn down, the internal mechanism needs replacement.