Essential Guide: How To Replace A Kitchen Faucet With Two Handles

Yes, you absolutely can replace a kitchen faucet with two handles yourself, making this a very achievable DIY task for most homeowners. Replacing a two-handle faucet is a great way to give your kitchen a fresh look and fix leaks without hiring a professional plumber. This guide walks you through every step of the two handle faucet replacement process, from gathering your gear to the final water test. We will cover everything needed for a smooth DIY kitchen faucet installation.

Preparation: Getting Ready for Your Faucet Swap

A successful faucet swap starts long before you turn a single wrench. Good planning prevents headaches under the sink. Gathering the right tools needed for faucet swap is half the battle won.

Essential Tools and Supplies Checklist

Make sure you have these items ready before you start the replacing a two-handle sink tap job.

Tool/Supply	Purpose	Notes
New Two-Handle Faucet Kit	The replacement unit.	Ensure it fits your sink’s hole configuration (usually 3 holes).
Basin Wrench	Reaching nuts in tight spaces.	This is the most important specialized tool.
Adjustable Wrenches (2)	Loosening supply line connections.	Protect the finish with tape if necessary.
Pliers (Channel Locks)	Gripping larger fittings.	Useful for stubborn connections.
Bucket or Shallow Container	Catching residual water.	You will always have water left in the lines.
Rags and Old Towels	Soaking up spills.	Keep the area dry and clean.
Safety Glasses	Protecting your eyes.	Always wear eye protection when working overhead.
Headlamp or Flashlight	Seeing clearly under the sink.	Cabinets get dark quickly!
Putty Knife or Scraper	Removing old caulk or putty.	For a clean seal on the new faucet base.
Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk	Sealing the base plate (escutcheon).	Check your new faucet instructions for the preferred sealant.
Penetrating Oil (Optional)	Loosening rusted nuts.	Apply an hour before you start.

Shutting Off the Water Supply

Safety first! You must stop the water flow before doing anything else.

Locate Shutoff Valves: Look under your sink. You should find two small valves—one for hot water (usually on the left) and one for cold water (usually on the right).
Turn Off the Water: Turn these valves clockwise until they stop. Do not force them if they feel stuck; use caution.
Drain Remaining Water: Turn on the old faucet handles (both hot and cold) above the sink. Let the water run until it stops dripping. This releases pressure in the lines.
Verify Water is Off: Check the faucet again after a minute. If no more water comes out, you are ready to proceed with removing old kitchen faucet handles.

Phase 1: Removing the Old Two-Handle Faucet

This part can be tough, especially if the faucet has been in place for many years. Patience is key here.

Accessing the Underside of the Sink

You need a clear view of the mounting hardware beneath the sink basin.

Clear everything out from under the sink cabinet.
Lay down your rags or towels to soak up any drips.
Position your bucket nearby.
Put on your safety glasses.

Detaching the Supply Lines

This is where the under sink faucet connection must be disconnected first.

Identify Supply Lines: Find the flexible tubes running from the shutoff valves up to the faucet body.
Use Wrenches: Use one adjustable wrench to hold the valve steady (to prevent it from turning) and another wrench to loosen the nut connecting the supply line to the valve. Turn counter-clockwise.
Disconnect Faucet Side: Next, use your basin wrench or adjustable wrench to disconnect the supply lines from the bottom of the faucet assembly itself. Some older systems might have rigid copper pipes instead of flexible lines; these may require careful cutting or soldering/desoldering if you are not replacing the lines.

Removing the Old Kitchen Faucet Handles and Spout

The handles and the main body are secured from below.

Locate Mounting Nuts: Look up at the bottom of the sink deck. You will see large nuts or screws holding the faucet base and the handles in place. For a two-handle setup, there are usually separate nuts for the spout body and each handle assembly.
Use the Basin Wrench: This specialized tool makes reaching these awkward nuts much easier. Fit the jaw of the basin wrench onto the nuts.
Loosen and Remove: Turn the nuts counter-clockwise until they come off completely. Keep track of any washers or gaskets that fall off.
Remove Handle Components: Once the nuts are off, you can usually lift the faucet handles and the central spout straight up from the sink holes. Sometimes, the base plate (escutcheon) is sealed with old caulk.

Cleaning the Sink Surface

Before mounting the new hardware, the surface must be spotless.

Scrape Residue: Use a plastic putty knife or a razor blade (be very careful not to scratch the sink finish) to scrape away all old plumber’s putty, silicone, or mineral deposits around the faucet holes.
Clean Thoroughly: Wipe the area down with a clean rag and mild cleaner. A smooth, dry surface ensures a watertight seal for the new fixture.

Phase 2: Installing the New Two-Handle Faucet

Now we move to the fun part: the installing new two-handle faucet process. Always follow the specific manufacturer’s guide for your new model, as parts can vary.

Preparing the New Faucet Components

Take everything out of the box and match the parts to the diagram.

Handle Separation: If your new faucet comes as a single unit with integrated handles, you might skip some steps. If it’s a widespread model (separate spout and two handles), prepare the base gaskets and securing hardware for each piece.
Attaching Supply Lines (If Necessary): Many modern faucets come with the supply lines already attached to the faucet body. If yours did not, thread the new hot and cold lines into the correct ports on the faucet base now. Hand-tighten, then give them a quarter turn with a wrench—do not overtighten.

Setting the Faucet Base and Spout

This secures the main body to the sink deck.

Apply Sealant: If your faucet requires plumber’s putty or silicone caulk (check instructions—many modern ones use only a rubber gasket), apply a thin rope of putty around the underside rim of the main spout base plate (escutcheon).
Position the Faucet: Carefully feed the faucet base and the attached supply lines down through the center hole in the sink deck. Ensure the spout faces the correct direction.
Secure from Below: Go back under the sink. Slide the provided rubber gasket, metal washer, and mounting nut onto the faucet shank(s).
Tighten the Nut: Use your basin wrench to tighten the mounting nut. Tighten until the faucet is snug and doesn’t wiggle. You should see a little bit of plumber’s putty squeeze out from the edges above the sink—this shows you have a good seal. Wipe away excess putty immediately.

Installing the Two Handles

The handles typically mount into separate holes flanking the spout.

Insert Handle Shanks: Feed the threaded shanks for the hot and cold handles down through their respective holes.
Install Washers and Nuts: From below, slide on the washers and thread the mounting nuts onto the shanks.
Secure Handles: Hand-tighten these nuts first. Then, use a small wrench or pliers to firmly secure them. Ensure the handle bases are straight before the final tightening.
Attach Handle Tops: Place the decorative handle caps or levers onto the threaded studs on top of the shanks and secure them according to the manufacturer’s directions (usually with a small set screw).

Connecting Hot and Cold Water Lines Faucet

This step connects your home’s plumbing to the new fixture. This is a crucial part of connecting hot and cold water lines faucet.

Identify Lines: Make sure you know which supply line from the faucet (usually marked red/hot and blue/cold) connects to which shutoff valve (hot to hot, cold to cold).
Hand Tighten Connections: Carefully thread the faucet supply lines onto the corresponding shutoff valves. Turn clockwise until they are hand-tight.
Wrench Tighten: Use your adjustable wrench to tighten each connection about one full turn past hand-tight. Be careful not to overtighten, which can damage the rubber washers inside the fittings. If the valve body spins while you tighten the fitting, use a second wrench to hold the valve steady.

Phase 3: Testing and Finishing Touches

The final steps for kitchen faucet replacement ensure everything works and seals properly.

Testing for Leaks

This is the moment of truth. Go slowly.

Turn Water Back On Slowly: Return under the sink. Slowly turn the hot and cold shutoff valves counter-clockwise to restore water flow to the faucet lines. Listen for any immediate spraying sounds.
Check Connections Immediately: While the water is coming back on, use a flashlight to inspect every connection point under the sink—where the supply lines meet the valves, and where they meet the faucet base. If you see a drip, gently tighten that specific connection a little more.
Flush the Lines: Go above the sink. Remove the aerator screen from the tip of the spout (it usually unscrews easily). This prevents debris from clogging it during the initial flush.
Run the Water: Turn on the hot water fully and let it run for about one minute. Then, switch to cold and run it for one minute. This clears any air, sediment, or manufacturing debris from the new lines.
Reinstall the Aerator: Turn the water off, screw the aerator back on securely.

Final Inspection

Check Faucet Operation: Test both handles independently and together. Ensure the water temperature mixes correctly.
Look for Weeps: Turn the water on full blast. Now, inspect every connection again, including the baseplate where the faucet meets the sink surface. If you see any water seeping from the base, turn the water off immediately, dry everything, and slightly tighten the mounting nut again. If it still leaks, you might need to lift the faucet, clean the area again, and apply fresh plumber’s putty or caulk.
Clean Up: Stow your tools, put the items back under the sink, and admire your handiwork. You have successfully completed your kitchen sink faucet upgrade!

Deciphering Common Issues During Faucet Installation

Even with preparation, things can go wrong. Here are solutions to common problems encountered during replacing a two-handle sink tap.

Problem: The Old Supply Lines Are Rusted Shut

If the nuts connecting the old supply lines to the shutoff valves won’t budge, do not just yank harder.

Solution 1 (Penetrating Oil): Spray a good penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) liberally on the threads. Wait 30 minutes, then try again.
Solution 2 (Heat): A hairdryer aimed at the nut can cause it to expand slightly, breaking the rust bond. Use heat sparingly.
Solution 3 (Replacement): If the lines are too old or corroded, the easiest solution is to replace the entire supply line assembly, running new flexible hoses from the valve to the new faucet.

Problem: Difficulty Reaching Mounting Nuts

The space under the sink is notoriously cramped, making the under sink faucet connection a real challenge.

Solution: A basin wrench is designed specifically for this. If you don’t own one, rent one or buy an inexpensive model. It allows you to grip the nut from below and turn it without needing massive leverage space. Working on your back is easier if you use a pillow or blanket.

Problem: The New Faucet Leaks from the Base

Water drips onto the cabinet floor every time you use the sink.

Cause: Usually a bad seal between the faucet base and the sink deck.
Solution: Turn off the water, remove the handle/spout assembly (you don’t need to disconnect the supply lines if you are careful). Clean off all old putty or caulk. Reapply a fresh, thin rope of plumber’s putty around the base rim or ensure the rubber gasket provided by the manufacturer is seated perfectly flat. Re-tighten the mounting nut firmly, but not forcefully.

Problem: The Water Pressure is Low After Installation

If your water flow seems weaker than before the two handle faucet replacement.

Check 1 (Aerator): The most common cause is debris caught in the new aerator. Unscrew it and clean it out, then test the flow without it.
Check 2 (Supply Valves): Ensure the shutoff valves under the sink are completely open (turned fully counter-clockwise). Sometimes, they only get partially opened.
Check 3 (Supply Lines): If you used flexible lines, ensure they are not kinked or pinched in the cabinet space. A severe kink restricts flow significantly.

Fathoming Faucet Types for Your Upgrade

When shopping for a replacement, you need to know the configuration of your sink deck. Most older homes with two-handle faucets use one of two main mounting styles.

Centerset Faucets

These are common in older or smaller sinks.

The handles and the spout are all connected to a single base plate (escutcheon).
The total width of this plate is usually 4 inches wide.
This is often the easiest option for DIY kitchen faucet installation because you deal with fewer separate pieces going through the sink holes.

Widespread Faucets

These offer a more upscale look and greater flexibility in handle placement.

The hot handle, cold handle, and spout are three entirely separate pieces.
They require three separate holes in the sink deck, usually spaced 8 to 16 inches apart.
When replacing a centerset with a widespread, you must ensure your sink has the required three large holes.

Faucet Type	Hole Requirement	Spacing	Installation Difficulty
Centerset	1 hole (with base plate)	Fixed 4-inch spread	Easiest
Widespread	3 separate holes	Adjustable (8 to 16 inches)	Moderate

Maintaining Your New Two-Handle Faucet

Once the installation is complete, a little upkeep keeps your new fixture looking great and functioning perfectly.

Cleaning Tips

Avoid harsh abrasives which can damage the finish (especially on bronze or nickel faucets).

Use a soft cloth dipped in mild soap and water for daily cleaning.
For hard water spots, a solution of half white vinegar and half water works well. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe clean. Always rinse with plain water afterward.

Periodic Checks

To prevent issues like those encountered during removing old kitchen faucet handles, check these items yearly:

Tighten Aerator: Unscrew the aerator and rinse it clean. Tiny mineral deposits build up here and reduce water flow.
Check Handle Tightness: Ensure the decorative handles have not become loose on their stems.
Inspect Supply Lines: Look under the sink for any signs of moisture or corrosion near the supply line connections. A slow leak can cause significant cabinet damage over time.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Faucet Replacement

Q: Do I need to replace the water supply lines when I replace the faucet?

A: It is highly recommended. If your existing supply lines are old (more than 5–7 years) or look corroded, replacing them while you have access is smart preventative maintenance. New faucets often come with suitable new lines, simplifying the connecting hot and cold water lines faucet process.

Q: Can I replace a 4-hole faucet with a 3-hole faucet?

A: Yes, you can usually upgrade from a 4-hole configuration to a 3-hole (widespread or centerset) faucet. The extra hole (often used for a soap dispenser or side sprayer) can simply be covered using a decorative deck plate (escutcheon) supplied with many new faucets, or you can purchase a separate matching deck plate cover.

Q: How tight should I make the nuts connecting the faucet to the sink?

A: They need to be tight enough so the faucet does not rotate when you turn the handles firmly, but not so tight that you risk cracking the sink material (especially porcelain or composite sinks). Use the basin wrench to get them snug, then stop tightening once the fixture stops moving easily.

Q: What is the function of plumber’s putty versus silicone caulk for the base seal?

A: Plumber’s putty provides a flexible seal that is easy to remove later, making future kitchen sink faucet upgrade or repairs simpler. Silicone caulk creates a much stronger, waterproof seal that is harder to remove. Most modern faucets include a thick rubber gasket and do not require either, but if yours doesn’t, putty is generally preferred for easier future removal.