Can I replace kitchen cabinets myself? Yes, you absolutely can replace kitchen cabinets yourself if you are prepared and take your time. This guide will walk you through the whole process, from taking the old ones out to installing new kitchen cabinets. Deciding between refacing vs replacing cabinets is the first big choice. If your current cabinet boxes are damaged, rotten, or you want a whole new layout, replacement is best. If the boxes are strong, refacing might save time and money. This cabinet replacement guide assumes you are doing a full replacement, which includes removing old kitchen cabinets and then proceeding with the full DIY cabinet installation.
Planning Your Kitchen Cabinet Upgrade
Good planning stops big problems later. This step is vital for a smooth kitchen cabinet upgrade. Measure everything twice!
Getting the Right Measurements
You need precise measurements. Measure the width, height, and depth of all wall spaces. Also, measure the floor space for base cabinets.
- Note the location of windows and doors.
- Mark where plumbing lines (sinks) and gas lines (stoves) are.
- Measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the upper cabinets (usually 18 inches above the countertop).
Choosing Your New Cabinets
Cabinets come in three main styles:
- Stock Cabinets: Pre-built in standard sizes. They are the cheapest and fastest option.
- Semi-Custom Cabinets: Offer more choices in size, material, and finish. They cost more than stock but offer good flexibility.
- Custom Cabinets: Made just for your space. They are the priciest but fit perfectly.
Layout and Design Approval
Draw a sketch of your new kitchen layout. Decide where you want the sink, stove, and refrigerator to go. This layout dictates where you will be hanging base cabinets and mounting upper cabinets. Get all appliance dimensions now.
Preparation: Getting Ready for Removal
Before you touch a single screw, you must make the kitchen safe and clear. Turn off the power and water!
Shutting Off Utilities
Safety comes first. You must disconnect power and water lines running to the cabinets.
- Electricity: Find your home’s main breaker box. Turn off the power to the kitchen circuit. Test the outlets and lights near the cabinets with a non-contact voltage tester.
- Water: Locate the shut-off valves under the sink. Turn them off tightly. If you cannot find local shut-offs, turn off the main water supply to your house. Open the faucet to drain any remaining water.
Emptying and Clearing the Work Area
Every single item must come out.
- Remove everything from inside the cabinets.
- Take off all doors and drawers if you plan to reuse the boxes (though for full replacement, this is less critical).
- Remove the sink, faucet, and garbage disposal. You may need a plumber to disconnect the drain lines properly.
- Take off the countertops. This is often the hardest part of kitchen cabinet removal. Countertops are heavy and often glued or screwed down from below. Have a helper for this.
Removing Old Kitchen Cabinets
This is the core of the kitchen cabinet removal process. You are moving from old to empty space.
Disconnecting the Sink and Plumbing
If the sink sits on top of the old base cabinets, it needs to come out first.
- Disconnect the water supply lines from the faucet.
- Disconnect the P-trap drain line.
- If you have a garbage disposal, unplug it and unscrew it from the sink flange.
- Lift the sink straight up if it is a drop-in style. If it is an undermount sink, you will need to carefully cut the sealant holding it to the counter, then support the sink from below before removing the counter.
Taking Out Upper Cabinets
Upper cabinets are usually lighter and hung first.
- Look for screws holding the cabinets to the wall studs. They are often hidden behind filler strips or under the cabinet base.
- Use a pry bar very gently. Place shims between the cabinet top and the ceiling.
- Have a helper support the cabinet.
- Unscrew the cabinets one by one, starting from the end pieces. Lower them slowly and set them aside.
Taking Out Base Cabinets
Base cabinets are heavier, especially if they still have plumbing attached.
- Ensure the countertop is completely removed.
- Look for screws securing the cabinets to the wall studs, usually near the top corners.
- Look for screws connecting the cabinets to each other along the sides. Remove these screws.
- Gently try to pull the cabinet away from the wall. It might be stuck due to old adhesive or paint bridging the gap. Work slowly with a pry bar, protecting your drywall.
After removing old kitchen cabinets, clean the walls and floors thoroughly. You might need to patch holes or prepare the floor for the new cabinets.
Preparing for Installation
The success of installing new kitchen cabinets depends on getting the layout lines right on the walls and floor.
Finding and Marking Wall Studs
You must anchor the new cabinets into solid wood studs, not just drywall.
- Use a reliable stud finder. Mark the center line of every stud along the wall where cabinets will go.
- Use a level to draw a straight, continuous line connecting all these marks.
Establishing the Layout Lines
This is the most crucial step for level cabinetry.
- Base Cabinet Height Line: Determine the finished height of your countertops (usually 36 inches from the floor). Measure up from the floor and draw a level line where the bottom of your base cabinets will sit. Tip: Account for any flooring material you are adding later.
- Upper Cabinet Height Line: If you have an 18-inch space between the base and upper cabinets, measure up 18 inches from the top of your established base cabinet line. Draw the line where the bottom of your upper cabinets will rest.
- Cabinet Placement Lines: Mark where each cabinet box will sit on the floor and walls.
Installing New Kitchen Cabinets: The Base Units First
Always start with the base cabinets. They determine the height of your countertops.
Setting the First Base Cabinet
The first cabinet sets the reference point for the entire kitchen. Pick the corner cabinet or the one under the main sink location if you know exactly where it goes.
- Check for Level and Plumb: Hold the first cabinet against the wall, aligning its bottom edge with your marked base line. Use a long level to check if it is level side-to-side and front-to-back.
- Shimming: Walls and floors are rarely perfectly straight. Use wood shims (thin wedges) behind the cabinet where needed to make it perfectly level and plumb. Shims are essential for getting a professional look.
- Securing the Cabinet: Drive long cabinet screws (2.5 to 3 inches) through the back frame of the cabinet directly into the marked wall studs. Use at least two screws per stud location. Do not overtighten, as this can warp the cabinet box.
Aligning and Securing Adjacent Base Cabinets
This process ensures that cabinets line up perfectly, hiding gaps.
- Place the next base cabinet snugly next to the first one.
- Use temporary clamps or long screws driven through the sides of the two cabinets while they are touching to pull them tightly together.
- Once clamped tight, drill pilot holes and drive cabinet joining screws (usually 1.5 to 2 inches long) through the side panels where they meet. Do this near the front and near the back.
- Repeat this process for all hanging base cabinets. Use the level constantly to ensure that as you join them, the entire run remains level along the top edge.
Fixing Cabinets to the Floor (Optional but Recommended)
In some high-traffic areas or for extra stability, you can anchor the bottom of the cabinet to the floor using small blocks screwed to the cabinet bottom and floor joists.
Mounting Upper Cabinets
Mounting upper cabinets requires extra care due to their weight and height. Two people are strongly recommended for this part of the DIY cabinet installation.
Setting Up Temporary Support
You cannot hold heavy upper cabinets overhead while screwing them in.
- Build a temporary support structure using strong lumber (like 2x4s) placed across sawhorses or stacked securely. Set the height of this support to just below your marked line for the bottom of the upper cabinets.
Installing the First Upper Cabinet
Start with the end cabinet, just as you did with the base units.
- Lift the cabinet onto your temporary support structure.
- Align the bottom edge of the cabinet with the line you drew for the upper cabinets.
- Check that the cabinet is perfectly level and plumb using your level. Use shims as needed behind the back panel.
- Secure the cabinet by driving mounting screws (often specialized cabinet screws designed to go through wood easily) through the back rail and into the wall studs. Drive screws near the top and bottom corners, and one in the middle, if possible.
Joining Upper Cabinets Together
The process is similar to base cabinets, but working overhead makes it trickier.
- Place the next upper cabinet onto the supports, pushing it flush against the first cabinet.
- Clamp the two cabinets together tightly.
- Drive joining screws through the inside faces of the cabinet side panels.
- Once secured, you can remove the clamps and the temporary support structure from underneath that section.
- Continue this process until all replacing kitchen cupboards are mounted securely.
Finishing Touches and Adjustments
Once all boxes are secured, the real transformation begins.
Installing Shelves and Drawer Slides
If your new cabinets did not come with hardware pre-installed, now is the time to put in the drawer slides and shelf pins.
- Follow the manufacturer’s directions precisely for slide placement. Mistakes here cause drawers that stick or sag.
Installing Doors and Drawer Fronts
This step takes patience. Doors must look perfectly aligned when you are done.
- Attach hinges to the cabinet doors (if not already attached).
- Attach the hinge mounting plates to the inside of the cabinet frame according to the manufacturer’s guide (usually using a template).
- Mount the doors onto the plates. You will likely need to adjust the hinge screws afterward.
Hinge Adjustment Basics
Modern European-style hinges allow for three main adjustments using the adjustment screws located on the hinge body:
| Adjustment Screw | Function | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Rear Screw | Depth Adjustment | Moves the door forward or backward. |
| Side Screw | Side-to-Side Adjustment | Moves the door left or right to align gaps. |
| Vertical Screw | Up/Down Adjustment | Moves the door up or down (often requires lifting the door slightly). |
Spend time adjusting every door until the gaps between them are even and consistent all the way around.
Installing Hardware (Pulls and Knobs)
Measure carefully before drilling any holes for handles or knobs. Use a template if one came with your hardware. Measure from the top and the side edge of the door or drawer front to ensure uniformity across all pieces.
Reconnecting Plumbing and Electrical
Once the base cabinets are solid and level, you can reinstall the sink, faucet, and disposal.
- Reconnect the plumbing carefully. Use plumber’s putty or silicone sealant where required.
- Check all water connections for leaks by slowly turning the water back on.
- If you have under-cabinet lighting, reconnect the wiring now.
Final Inspection and Cleanup
Your kitchen cabinet upgrade is nearly complete.
Installing Toe Kicks
Toe kicks are the wooden trim pieces that cover the space between the base of the cabinets and the floor.
- Measure the gaps precisely.
- Cut the toe kick material to size.
- Attach them using small brads or specialized clips provided by the cabinet maker.
Countertop Installation
If you purchased new countertops (granite, quartz, laminate), this is usually the final major step. Professional installers are often recommended for stone countertops because they are extremely heavy and require specialized cutting and sealing. If using laminate, ensure the base cabinets are perfectly level before they set the top down, as laminate countertops cannot hide uneven bases.
Final Cleanup
Remove all debris, packaging, and old materials. Step back and admire your hard work in replacing kitchen cupboards!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Cabinet Replacement
How long does it take to replace kitchen cabinets?
For an experienced DIYer, removing the old cabinets might take one day. The installation of the new boxes and doors usually takes 2 to 4 days, depending on the size of the kitchen and how many adjustments are needed. If you hire professionals, the cabinet installation itself is often done in 1 to 2 days, but countertop templating and installation add significant extra time.
What is the first cabinet you should install?
You should start with the base cabinets first. Within the base cabinets, start with the corner unit or the cabinet that anchors your layout, as every subsequent cabinet’s position relies on the accurate placement of that first unit.
Do I have to remove the countertops before removing the cabinets?
Yes, almost always. Upper cabinets are typically screwed through the mounting rail into the wall studs. If the countertop is still there, it will block access to the screws holding the base cabinets to the wall and to each other. Furthermore, the countertop often rests on top of the base cabinets, holding them steady. Removing the countertop first frees up the base units.
What is the standard spacing between upper and lower cabinets?
The standard gap between the top of the base cabinet (without the counter) and the bottom of the upper cabinet is 18 inches. This allows comfortable working space while accommodating standard appliance heights. Always confirm this measurement based on your specific appliances and ceiling height.