What is cabinet refacing? Cabinet refacing is a process that updates the look of your existing kitchen cabinets without completely tearing them out. It involves replacing or covering the visible exterior surfaces, like the doors and drawer fronts, giving your kitchen a fresh, new appearance. This is often a much cheaper and faster alternative to a full cabinet replacement.
Cabinet refacing is a fantastic way to achieve a major kitchen upgrade without the major cost or disruption. If your cabinet boxes are solid but the doors look dated, refacing is the perfect solution. This guide will walk you through every step for a successful budget kitchen cabinet makeover.
Deciphering Cabinet Refacing vs. Refinishing
People often confuse refacing with refinishing. They are different processes. Refinishing kitchen cabinets yourself usually means cleaning, sanding, and reapplying a new stain or paint finish to your existing doors and frames. You keep the original door style.
Cabinet refacing, however, is more comprehensive. It involves replacing the doors and drawer fronts entirely or covering the existing surfaces with new material. This allows you to change the door style completely.
| Feature | Cabinet Refacing | Cabinet Refinishing |
|---|---|---|
| Doors/Drawer Fronts | Replaced or covered with new material. | Kept as is; only the finish changes. |
| Style Change | Significant style changes possible. | Minor style changes only (color change). |
| Cost | Moderate. | Low. |
| Time Required | Moderate (requires ordering new parts). | Shorter time frame. |
| Durability | High, especially with new materials. | Depends on the quality of the paint/stain. |
Planning Your Cabinet Refacing Project
A good plan sets you up for success. Do not skip this crucial step. Think about the overall look you want for your kitchen.
Assessing Your Current Cabinets
First, check the structure of your current cabinets. Cabinet refacing kits work best when the boxes (the structure holding the shelves) are in good shape.
- Check for Damage: Look for water damage, mold, or weak joints in the cabinet boxes. If the boxes are weak, refacing might not work well.
- Measure Everything: Accuracy is key here. Measure the height and width of every single door and drawer front. Measure the face frame of the cabinet opening too. Write these down clearly.
Choosing Your Refacing Method
You have several ways to reface your cabinets. Your choice depends on your budget and desired look.
1. Full Overlay Door Replacement
This is the most common refacing method. You order entirely new doors and drawer fronts that fit over your existing cabinet frames.
2. Overlay with New Veneer
If your existing door fronts are structurally sound but ugly, you can apply a new decorative layer over them. This is a step beyond simple painting kitchen cabinets tutorial results.
3. Using Cabinet Refacing Kits
These kits usually include adhesive materials, new drawer fronts, and new doors. They are designed to make the process simpler for homeowners. They often come with high-quality vinyl or thermofoil options.
4. Laminate Kitchen Cabinets Update
If you have older, dated laminate cabinets, you might choose to cover the existing laminate with new, thinner material. This is often a great option for a fast update.
5. Peel and Stick Cabinet Covers
For the quickest, lowest-cost option, consider peel and stick cabinet covers. These are essentially heavy-duty contact papers made specifically for cabinets. They are thin and easy to apply but might not last as long as thicker veneers.
Step-by-Step Guide to Cabinet Refacing
This section covers the core process, assuming you are replacing doors and drawer fronts and applying a new veneer or adhesive material to the visible cabinet faces.
Step 1: Empty and Prepare the Area
Clear everything out of the kitchen that you do not want damaged. Lay down plastic sheeting or drop cloths on the floors and countertops. You will be creating dust and drips.
Step 2: Remove Existing Doors and Hardware
This is where things start to look different quickly!
- Label Everything: Use painter’s tape and a marker to label every single door and drawer front. Write down which cabinet opening it came from (e.g., “Upper Right,” “Lower Center Drawer”). Doors rarely fit perfectly on another opening.
- Remove Hardware: Take off all hinges, knobs, and pulls. Place screws and hardware in labeled bags so you do not lose anything.
- Take Off Doors: Carefully unscrew the hinges from the cabinet frame. Set the doors aside safely. They are often the pieces you are replacing, but sometimes you might refinish them later or use them as templates.
Step 3: Preparing the Cabinet Boxes (The Face Frames)
The success of refacing depends on how well you prep the existing wood or laminate frame. If you are using cabinet refacing kits, follow their specific prep instructions closely.
Cleaning is Essential
You must remove all grease, grime, and residue.
- Use a strong degreaser. TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) cleaner is often recommended by professionals for tough grease. Always wear gloves and eye protection when using strong cleaners.
- Wipe down all surfaces that will be covered or painted. Rinse well with clean water.
- Allow the surfaces to dry completely.
Sanding (If Necessary)
If the existing surface is glossy paint or old, peeling finish, you need to scuff it up so the new material sticks.
- Use medium-grit sandpaper (around 120-150 grit). You are not trying to remove all the wood, just creating tiny scratches for the adhesive to grip.
- Wipe away all sanding dust with a tack cloth or a damp rag.
Step 4: Applying New Veneer or Laminate (If Not Painting)
If you opted for a laminate kitchen cabinets update using adhesive sheets, this is where you apply the new skin to the cabinet face frames.
- Measure and Cut: Measure the face frame section precisely. Cut your veneer or laminate material, leaving a small overhang (about half an inch) on all sides.
- Apply Adhesive (If Required): Some materials are self-adhesive (like peel and stick cabinet covers). Others require a contact cement or strong construction adhesive. Apply the glue evenly to the cabinet frame or the back of the veneer, following the product directions exactly.
- The Tricky Part: Peel back only a small section of the backing paper. Align the material carefully with one edge of the frame. Slowly smooth the material down, working from the center outward. Use a plastic smoother or squeegee to push out all air bubbles. Work slowly to avoid wrinkles.
- Trimming: Once fully applied, use a sharp utility knife or a flush-trim router bit to carefully trim the excess overhang along the edges of the frame.
Pro Tip: Work on one cabinet face frame at a time. Do not try to do the entire kitchen at once.
Step 5: Installing New Doors and Drawer Fronts
Now for the exciting part—installing the new hardware and doors! If you ordered custom-sized doors, they should fit perfectly.
Hardware Installation
- Install Hinges: Attach the new hinges to the new doors first, if they did not come pre-drilled or pre-attached.
- Install Knobs/Pulls: Drill pilot holes for the handles and knobs on the new doors and drawer fronts. Attach the hardware.
Door Hanging
- Mount Hinges to Frames: Attach the hinge mounting plates to the inside of the cabinet face frames. If you are using European (Euro) style hinges, these often clip on, which makes adjustment easier.
- Hang Doors: Screw the doors onto the mounted hinge plates.
- Adjust Doors: This step takes patience. New doors rarely hang perfectly straight the first time. Use the adjustment screws on the hinges to align them. You need to adjust for:
- Side-to-Side (Lateral) Alignment: To make sure the gap between doors is even.
- Up-and-Down (Vertical) Alignment: To ensure the door tops line up.
- In-and-Out (Depth) Adjustment: To make sure the door sits flush with the cabinet frame.
Step 6: Drawer Front Installation
Drawer fronts are often simpler. If you ordered new drawer boxes, you install the front onto the box. If you are keeping the existing drawer boxes, you typically screw the new drawer front onto the face of the old box front. Ensure the new fronts are level across the entire bank of drawers before permanently securing them.
Alternative Refacing Techniques
Not every kitchen needs a full cabinet door replacement. Sometimes, simpler methods suit the project scope.
Painting Kitchen Cabinets Tutorial: A Refacing Adjacent Technique
If you like the style of your current doors but hate the color, a high-quality paint job can achieve a refaced look on a tighter budget.
Key Steps for Painting Success:
- Choose the Right Paint: Skip standard wall paint. Use a high-quality cabinet enamel paint or a specialty paint like a two-part epoxy or Urethane Alkyd. These dry harder and resist chipping better.
- Priming: Use a bonding primer designed for slick surfaces (like BIN or a similar product). This ensures the paint sticks to wood, laminate, or old paint.
- Application: Spray painting yields the smoothest, most professional finish, mimicking the look of factory-made cabinets. If you must brush or roll, use high-density foam rollers and apply thin, even coats. Sand lightly between coats with very fine sandpaper (300+ grit).
Reglazing Kitchen Cabinets
Reglazing kitchen cabinets is an alternative to painting. It involves applying a durable, often epoxy-based coating over the existing surface. It offers a very hard, professional, factory-like finish, similar to what you see in commercial settings. This is usually best left to professionals because it requires very specific ventilation and application techniques.
Updating Thermofoil or Laminate Kitchen Cabinets Update
If your cabinets are currently covered in old, peeling thermofoil (a vinyl wrap), you might be able to gently heat the remaining foil to remove it, exposing the substrate wood or MDF underneath. Once exposed, you can treat that surface as a regular cabinet surface for painting or applying new veneer. Be very careful with heat; too much will warp the wood underneath.
Materials Deep Dive for DIY Cabinet Fronts
The materials you choose directly impact the durability and look of your newly refaced kitchen.
Veneers vs. Thermofoil vs. Solid Wood
| Material | Pros | Cons | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wood Veneer | Looks and feels like real wood; highly durable; paintable. | More expensive than vinyl; requires careful application. | High-end, long-term budget kitchen cabinet makeover. |
| Thermofoil/Vinyl | Very easy to clean; wide range of colors/patterns; inexpensive. | Can peel or bubble with high heat (e.g., near a stove); hard to repair if damaged. | Quick updates, rentals, or low-traffic kitchens. |
| Solid Wood (New Doors) | Maximum durability and customization. | Highest cost; requires precise measurement and ordering. | When you want a true cabinet door replacement. |
Selecting Hinges and Hardware
Do not overlook hinges. The type of hinge affects how your doors look when closed and how easy they are to adjust.
- Overlay vs. Inset: Most modern cabinets use an overlay style, where the door sits over the frame. Inset cabinets sit inside the frame opening. Ensure your new doors match your existing setup, or commit to adjusting your cabinet frames to accommodate a new style.
- Soft-Close Features: For a touch of luxury in your DIY cabinet fronts project, invest in soft-close hinges. They prevent doors from slamming shut, adding value and quiet functionality.
Mastering the Details for a Professional Finish
The difference between a DIY look and a professional reface lies in the finishing touches.
Dealing with Gaps and Seams
When you cover the old face frames or install new materials, small gaps or uneven seams can appear.
- Caulking: Use paintable acrylic or silicone caulk (depending on the location) to fill any tiny cracks where the new veneer meets the old frame, or where two pieces of trim meet. Keep the bead thin and smooth.
- Filling Pinholes: If you drilled new holes or found old imperfections, use wood filler (if you are painting/staining wood) or specialized epoxy filler sticks (if using a laminate finish) to patch them before the final covering goes on.
Working with Drawers
Drawers can be tricky because they move in and out.
If you are replacing just the fronts:
- Determine the necessary overlap for the new front to cover the old drawer box sides evenly.
- Attach the new front securely to the old box using screws driven from the inside of the drawer box. Ensure the alignment is perfect before tightening.
If you are using peel and stick cabinet covers on drawers, apply the cover very carefully, ensuring the material lines up perfectly when the drawer is closed.
Finishing Touches: Backsplashes and Toe Kicks
To fully complete the transformation and truly seal the cabinet refacing job, consider updating surrounding areas:
- Toe Kicks: The bottom trim strip beneath the base cabinets is often scuffed. Reface this area using the same material as your cabinet frames for a seamless look.
- Interior Paint: If you are feeling ambitious, painting the inside of your base cabinets (especially visible shelves) in a light, crisp color can make the whole kitchen feel brighter and newer.
Budget Considerations and Cost Savings
Refacing is inherently a cost-saving measure, but smart choices further reduce expense.
How to save money on your cabinet refacing:
- Use Existing Boxes: This is the primary saving. Replacing boxes is the most expensive part of any kitchen remodel.
- DIY Labor: Handling the sanding, cleaning, and application yourself slashes labor costs. If you are refinishing kitchen cabinets yourself, the material cost is your main expense.
- Go Vinyl/Laminate: Choosing high-quality vinyl or thermofoil over solid wood doors significantly cuts the price of the replacement components.
- Reuse Hardware: If your existing knobs and pulls are in good condition and match your new style, save money by cleaning and reusing them instead of buying new ones.
For a truly budget kitchen cabinet makeover, focusing on high-impact surface changes (doors, fronts) while preserving structure is the most efficient route.
Frequently Asked Questions About Cabinet Refacing
Is cabinet refacing cheaper than replacing cabinets?
Yes, almost always. Refacing generally costs between 40% to 70% less than installing entirely new cabinetry because you save on the cost of the main box structure, installation labor, and demolition fees.
How long does cabinet refacing take?
If you are ordering pre-made doors and veneers, the material lead time can be 3 to 8 weeks. The actual installation process for a standard kitchen (if done by an experienced DIYer) typically takes 3 to 5 full days, not including the time spent adjusting hinges.
Can I reface cabinets that are currently laminate?
Yes. You can update laminate kitchen cabinets by cleaning them thoroughly and applying a high-quality bonding primer followed by paint, or by applying a thin veneer or heavy-duty adhesive material directly over the old laminate surface.
What is the difference between cabinet refacing kits and ordering parts separately?
Cabinet refacing kits package all necessary materials (veneers, sometimes doors) for a specific type of cabinet box, often making the purchasing process easier for beginners. Ordering separately allows for greater customization in door style, material thickness, and hinge type, which might save money if you can source parts better locally.
Do I have to replace the hinges during refacing?
It is highly recommended, especially if you are upgrading to European-style hinges or adding soft-close features. Older hinges often don’t align with modern door drilling standards. New hinges ensure perfect alignment and smooth operation.
Can I use peel and stick cabinet covers if my doors have deep grooves?
Peel and stick cabinet covers work best on flat surfaces. If your doors have deep routed panels or highly detailed profiles, contact paper or thin vinyl may wrinkle or fail to adhere properly in the crevices. For heavily detailed doors, a full cabinet door replacement or painting is usually a better choice.